American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Articles

26675 Records

Title Publication Year
Crevasse Falls – Skiers and Snowboarders
Three accidents were reported in 2017 in which riders fell into crevasses on various Rainier glaciers, and one of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Molar, South Face, Le Privilege du Renard
In 2016, the Julbo eyewear maker ran a competition, with the winner having the opportunity to climb somewhere in the world ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Fall on Ice – Transition Error, Inexperience
On February 17, during the Michigan Ice Fest, a woman and two men, all in their 20s, set out to climb ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fall on Ice – Failure to Self-Arrest, Inadequate Equipment
At 10:40 a.m. on May 7, John Jenkins (32) was ascending the South Side (Hogsback) route on Mt. Hood when he slipped ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Ground Fall – Quickdraw Unclipped From Bolt
On June 30, a male climber (age 40) was attempting Helium Woman (5.9) when he fell and impacted the ground, fracturing both of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Stranded in Midair – Inadequate Protection
On September 30, three climbers (one male, two female, ages 27 to 31) were climbing Wherever I May Roam, a popular five-pitch sport ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Long Fall and Epic Self-Rescue
IN LATE MORNING on March 5, Ryan Montoya, 23, had nearly completed a solo winter ascent of 14,018-foot Pyramid Peak, near Aspen . ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fall on Rock – Off-Route
On July 23, a female climber (25, 15 years of experience) and her male climbing partner (24, six years of experience) were climbing the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Capitol Peak Fatalities – Off-route, Inexperience
An unprecedented five fatalities occurred within a six-week span on 14,137-foot Capitol Peak, one of Colorado’s most challenging 14ers . ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Cerro El Escampe and Cerro Copla Blanca
From October 13 to 21, Ramiro Casas and Glauco Muratti explored a quebrada (valley) that flows into the Tupungato River south of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Molar, Southwest Face, Stonecircle
In July and August, Robert Jasper made a "by fair means" solo expedition, sea kayaking to the Fox Jaw Cirque, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Rongdo Valley, Phokto Scheyok (Black Pyramid), South Face
In far northern India, a number of steep-sided granite valleys are enclosed by the “Great Bend” of the Shyok River. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Ak-tau Traverse
Between the well-known summits of Khan Tengri and Pik Pobeda sleeps a seldom-visited yet interesting group of mountains known as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mugu Valley, Peak 5,467m and the Mugu Eye (the Arch), Attempts
Inspired by a photo in  AAJ 2018 , and thanks to a Grit and Rock Award, Cecilia Buil (Spain), Ixchel Foord (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Charquini, East Face: Felix el Titi, Jaguar Holocaust, and Coni's Dream
After making the first ascent of the east face of Charquini (5,392m) in 2017 with Sergio Condori (see  AAJ 2018 ), I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Helicopter Rescue in the Bolivian Andes
In 2007 and '08, the Vladostano Alpine Rescue Service, which operates mountain rescue services in Italy's Val d'Aosta, organized training courses ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Picacho Pucusani, West to East Traverse
In mid-July, Roberto Gomez (Bolivia) and I finally turned our attention to a formation that every rock climber sees when ...
AAJ
Accident Reports
2019
Picacho Kasiri, South Face
Picacho Kasiri (as defined by the IMG map 5945-II) had looked full of promise when Roberto Gomez and I saw ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Fall on Ice – Inadequate Tool Placements
On February 4, a team of climbers from Amherst, Massachusetts, was ascending the third and final pitch of the Black Dike (...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Three Falls on Rock – Protection Pulled Out
On July 10, two climbers headed to the Barber Wall, a single-pitch crack climbing area on the upper left side of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fall on Ice – Fatigue, Dehydration
I took a 40-foot fall on ice at Chapel Pond, smashed my face, and suffered a traumatic brain injury, but ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Suiricocha Massif, Unnamed Peak, Peru-Belgium Arête
In May, Guy Fonck (Belgium) and I climbed an unnamed peak (ca 5,400m, 11°56'5.79"S 76° 3'18.95"W) in the southern ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Trident, Northwest Face and Southwest Ridge (Not to Summit); Mitón, First Ascent by East Ridge
In August, I led a 10-day traverse across the Cordillera Carabaya between the towns of Macusani (4,300m) and Ollachea (2,800m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chilpariti, Southwest Face
In 1967, the southwest face of Chilpariti (ca 5,550m) was so highly coveted by two visiting expeditions that the British team, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Nevado Huayllaco, South Face, Attempt
Nevado Huayllaco (5,460m, also spelled Huaiyacu, approximately 9°50'4.21"S, 77°11'21.61"W) was first ascended in 1963 by Domingo Giobbi (Italy/Brazil) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Oje Punta, West Couloir Direct
On July 9, 2017, I climbed a probable new route on the west aspect of Oje Punta (5,386m), also known as Lliani, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Jampa II, West Face
In August, my wife, Vahitiare Beltrami, Simon Schonemann-Poppeliers, and I traveled to the Andean village of Pacchanta, where we met ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cerro San Lorenzo, South Pillar (El Faro)
Martin Elias, Francois Poncet (a.k.a. Ponpon), and I approached the east face of Cerro San Lorenzo (3,706m) for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Quebrada Rurec Updates and Corrections
The 2018 season saw continued interest in the granite walls of Quebrada Rurec in the southern Cordillera Blanca. In late July, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Cerro Almirante Nieto, South Face, Linea de Libertad
Working as trekking guide in Torres del Paine for a few years, it was hard to ignore this incredible line ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chinese Puzzle Wall, Crouching Tiger
I FIRST CORRESPONDED with Brette Harrington in 2016, asking her to write an article for the AAJ about her recent route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Bayancol, Southwest Spur and Southeast Ridge
From July 26 to 28, Murat Otepbayev (leader), Tursunali Aubakirov, Igor Malkin, Maxim Pavlov, and Grigory Shchukin from Almaty climbed a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Pik Ushat, North Face, and Other Ascents
James Bailie, Alistair Bell, Vasili Trigas, and I left Bishkek for Karakol on August 14, ultimately heading for the Ushat-too, south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Baintha Brakk West II, Northeast Buttress, Attempt
On the long west-northwest ridge of Baintha Brakk (a.k.a. Ogre, 7,265m) lie several impressive summits, including Baintha Brakk ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Baintha Brakk West I, South Face, Attempt; Siayh Kangri Ho Brakk, North Face
Damian Göldi and Marcel Jaun (Switzerland) attempted unclimbed Baintha Brakk West I (a.k.a. Ogre IV, 6,660m) via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Andrew Harvard, 1949 – 2019
Andrew Carson Harvard died in January 2019 after a decade-long battle with younger-onset Alzheimer’s disease. His final days were comforted ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Nyainbo Yuze, Mantou Spire and Various Attempts
The Nyainbo Yuze has held a special place in my imagination since opening  AAJ 2014  and seeing Tamotsu Nakamura’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Shuijerab Group, Shuwert Valley, Banafsheh, South Face
On September 18, Philip De-Beger and I set up base camp at 4,864m (36.451221°N, 75.713064°E) at the entrance to the East ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Kiris Peak, Northeast Face, WaterWorld; Snow Peak, West-Southwest Face
Ghulam Muhammad, an old Pakistani friend and organizer of many of my travels in Baltistan, knows my taste in mountaineering ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Adirondacks and Catskills Summary
There were four technical climbing rescues in the mountains of upstate New York in 2017. In addition to the ice climbing ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection
On October 14, I started leading the direct start to Ventre de Boeuf, which begins with an easy squeeze chimney leading ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Shawangunks Annual Summary
In 2017 there were 16 reported climbing-related accidents at the Mohonk Preserve. These resulted in four head injuries, one spinal fracture, four ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Lowering Error – Rope Pulled Through Device, No Helmet
Late in the afternoon on April 16, a male climber (28) was injured after falling approximately 20 feet to the ground in the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes, Inexperience, No Helmet
On October 21, JM (40) attempted a rappel from the top of the climb Honey Pot (5.5), located in the Three Bears area. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fall on Rock – Inattentive Belay
On November 21 at around 11 a.m., two experienced climbers were attempting a multi-pitch sport route called Lost in Space (5.10b). ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fall on Descent – Loose Rock
On August 12, a male climber (age 49) fell while descending the North Sister via the South Ridge (Grade II, Class 4) after ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Stranded – Suspected Hypothermia
On the afternoon of August 13, a female climber (21) and her brother (25) became disoriented while descending Three Fingered Jack when heavy ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fatal Fall From Anchor – Miscommunication
On July 13, Matt Hearn (26) was climbing High Fructose Corn Syrup, a long single-pitch 5.8 at the Slips, a popular Salt Lake ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fall on Rock – Loose Rock, Inadequate Protection
On June 10, my partner Chloe (22) and I (23), both experienced climbers, hiked three to four hours to Big Willow Cirque, high ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Ground Fall From Anchors – Miscommunication
On March 11 a 27-year-old man led C.P.O.D., a 5.11- crack climb. None of his companions wanted to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018