American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Articles

26590 Records

Title Publication Year
Roped-Soloing Fall – Protection Pulled Out
The first pitch of Zodiac, showing (1) climber’s high point near the top belay anchor and (2) the highest piece ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Rappel Error – Rappelled Off End of Rope in Storm
My climbing partner and I were attempting to climb Tenaya Peak, Matthes Crest, and Cathedral Peak—three long but ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Ground Fall – Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience
On September 9, at 1:20 p.m., Coconino County Sheriff’s Office and other agencies responded to a report of a 12-year-old ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2019
Rockfall – Overcrowding, Inexperience, Anchor Failure
On Friday, August 25, five climbers left the Bay Area with the goal of climbing Cathedral Peak. The team consisted of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Rappel Error – Anchor Failure, Inadequate Communication and Teamwork
On August 6, a party of two was descending from Starlight Peak (14,200 feet) after climbing the Starlight Buttress route. Both climbers ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Leader Fall – Inexperience, Inadequate Belay
On December 3, my climbing partners Dave and Sam and a newly introduced third partner, Johnny, met up at Echo Cliffs ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Joshua Tree Summary
One fatal climbing accident was reported in Joshua Tree in 2017 : Samuel Boldissar, 25, died as a result of head injuries after ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Tahquitz Rock Fatalities
On July 8, a 51-year-old male climber’s body was found at the base of the Trough (4 pitches, 5.4); it is not ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Leader Fall on Rock
The Coconino County Sheriff's Office Search and Rescue Unit responded to a report of a climbing accident at Paradise Forks ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2019
Ledge Fall – Off-Route, Inadequate Protection
On August 20, Anders Fridberg and I (both very experienced) were climbing Blood in the Water, a three-pitch route on the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Rocky Mountain National Park Summary
ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK SUMMARY: Two people died in climbing-related accidents in 2017, and another was very seriously injured. On March 18, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Mendenhall Tower, North Face
On March 4, Juneau resident Ryan Johnson and Canadian Marc-André Leclerc started up the unclimbed north face of the Main Tower (6,910’) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Akka’n Tazarte, New Routes
Bernard Marnette and I have visited Taghia several times, aiming to climb classic routes or to open new ones. When ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
New Routes in Daniels River Valley and Nearby Areas
IT WAS A BUSY SEASON in the Coast Mountains outside of the city of Powell River, northwest of Squamish . ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Lowering Error – Rope Too Short, No Stopper Knot
On September 29, DP and JC (both age 23) were climbing Wandering the Halls, a 5.8+ sport climb, at Bolton Quarry climbing area. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2019
Lowering Error – Belayer Pulled Into Rock, No Helmet
On September 13 a belayer began lowering a climber from a sport route with an ATC Guide device . The climber outweighed ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fall on Rock – Communication Error, Taken Off Belay
On August 5, I and another emergency physician witnessed a horrific fall from the Dome. We were scouting locations for an ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Two Boulder Canyon Accidents
In March, a woman was lowered off the end of her rope on Frothing Green at the Bowling Alley , suffering ...
ANAM
Accident Tables
2018
Fall on Rock – Failure to Clip Anchor
On May 12, 27-year-old Conor Felletter and his climbing partner, Kelly Kochanski, were climbing Werk Supp, a two-pitch 5.9 route . After completing ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Ground Fall – Protection Pulled Out
In January a climber hit the ground when a key protection piece pulled out of Foxtrot (5.11d) on the West ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Ground Fall – Protection Pulled Out
On March 27, Japhy Dhungana (32), Eric Whewell, and Rainbow Weinstock were climbing at the Rincon Wall, projecting single-pitch trad-climbing routes . All ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
First Flatiron Fatalities
Two male soloists died in separate falls from the popular First Flatiron above Boulder in 2017 . In one case, deteriorating weather ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Lowering Error – Rope Too Short
This accident occurred after a climber completed a long route (Sex Face, 5.12a) during which he linked two pitches from ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fatal Rappel Error
A 27-year-old man died after falling about 60 feet to the ground at the Bank sector of Shelf Road, near Cañ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
The Towers of Simiatug
From December 5–9, a crew from Fondo Acceso Andino (the Ecuadorian analog to the Access Fund in the U.S.) went ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Nevado Parcocaya, North Ridge
In August, my expedition partner Duncan McDaniel (USA) and I attempted four different routes up four different mountains in southern ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Jurau A and Jurau B, New Routes (Not To Summits); Disambiguation and Notes on 2018 Climbs
In June, José María “Chemari” Andres, Christine Baschinger, Samuel Gomez, Jorge Valle, and I (all Spaniards) climbed new routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Korlang Pari Tippa North, West Top
In 2017 our expedition made the first ascent of Korlang Pari Tippa South ( AAJ 2018 ). In November 2018, I returned to the Rolwaling ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Nevado Tacusiri, South Face to West Ridge (No Summit)
On June 7, Argentine Nehuén Conterno and Peruvians Rodrigo Mendoza and Jorge Sirva departed from Pitumarca (80km south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Wild Spur Range, Divoka
The opportunity to visit Antarctica came through Marek Holeček. Peter Hamor and I were in Kathmandu in the spring ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Ordzhonikidze, North Face, Two New Routes
The Zayliyskiy Alatau (also sometimes spelled Zaylyiskiy, Zailiiskii, or Zalisky) is the most northerly part of the Tien Shan, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Zor Kumtor Valley: First Ascents
In late September and early October, our Czech-Slovak team made a trip to virgin peaks in the Alai mountains . Our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Nyambo Konka, Northeast Face and South-southeast Ridge
W.C. Fields once said: “If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again. Then quit. No use being ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mulung Tokpo: Aari Dont, Northwest Ridge; Chilh Point, East Face
I first went to Zanskar in 2013, inspired by an article by Harish Kapadia in the Himalayan Journal .  Our team ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Belayer Pulled Into Wall – Miscommunication
On April 29, a 25-year-old male was belaying a 22-year-old male climber on JewJew Fruit (5.10c) at Fruit Wall. The climber, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Ground Fall – Inadequate Belay, No Helmet
Early in the afternoon on August 27, EJ and LS (both age 21) were climbing Trouble Clef (5.9), an 80-foot sport route, when ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Ground Fall – Inadequate Belay
In early June, a climber took a 35-foot ground fall from the fifth bolt on Fadda (5.10a sport) due to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Leader Fall on Rock
On the afternoon of June 2, a 38-year-old man fell while leading the Sundance Route (5.7) and sustained fatal head injuries. He ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Falls on Rock
On August 18, at around 4:15 p.m., rangers were notified that a climber had sustained traumatic injuries in an unroped fall ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fall on Snow – Failure to Self-Arrest, Loss of Equipment
On August 26, at 12:30 p.m., ranger Jim Springer received a cell phone call from two climbers attempting the Koven Route ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Sajama, West Face and Northwest Ridge, Days to Remember
Matthew Ward from Idaho and I made an attempt in July on a gray flow of ice toward the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Uløytinden, East Face, NordFit; Historical Ascents on Uløytinden and Kägen
In March, Maciej Janczar and Tomasz Klimczak (Poland), based at the Lyngen Outdoor Center, added another winter route to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Fatal Fall – Unroped Scrambling During Descent
On Monday, August 28, Michael Sullivan, 54, fell to his death while descending from Steeple Peak . Sullivan and his climbing partner had ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Rockfall on Approach
On the morning of August 26, rangers received a call from a woman saying that one of her climbing partners was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes
On August 25, at 10:15 a.m., Grand Teton SAR coordinator Drew Hardesty was contacted by Exum guide Joe Stern, who reported ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Stranded – Route-finding Errors, Inadequate Clothing
On the afternoon of August 11, a 30-year-old male, Climber 1, and 23-year-old female, Climber 2, began an attempt on the Grand Traverse, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Stranded – Off-Route, Benighted
On August 8, at approximately 2 a.m., ranger Chris Harder was notified that a climbing party was stuck on the CMC ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fall on Snow – Not Wearing Crampons, Failure to Self-Arrest
On the morning of June 19, two climbers began ascending the Spoon Couloir of Disappointment Peak. The day was sunny and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Ski Mountaineering Fall – Off-Route, Unable to Self-Arrest
On February 16, at 11:10 a.m., park dispatch received a call that a skier had fallen down the Amora Vida Couloir ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fall on Snow – Fatigue, Poor Snow Conditions
On July 7, my climbing partner (Hayley Dukatz, 31) and I set off from high camp for a run at the Adams ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018