American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Articles

26414 Records

Title Publication Year
Chiling I, East Ridge, and the Enigma of Z2
Chiling I (left) and II from the Lalung Glacier to the northeast. The east ridge of Chiling I, climbed in 2017, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
The Big Wall Belt
INTRODUCTION By Chris Kalman IN THE SPRING OF 2017, I was looking for something big, remote, and wild to climb in ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2018
Tsaranoro Atsimo, Soava Dia; Chameleon, Les Vazahamateurs
From June 5 to 25, a group of six young climbers of the Fédération Française de la Montagne et ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Recon: Jebel Misht
I WAS RETURNING from a tough winter expedition in Nepal . It had been badly planned and badly executed, and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2018
Icarus
THERE WAS STILL only one route up the center of Jebel Misht’s highest face by March 2001 when Steve Sustad ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2018
Ruth Gorge, New Rock Routes
Despite being accompanied to the Ruth Gorge by the all-star team of Alex Honnold and Renan Ozturk, conditions and motivations ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Nevado Chicón, Southwest Face of South Peak
On June 3, Andres Putallaz (Argentina) and I left Urubamba at noon and traveled up the Chicón Valley . Climbing up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Nevado Huantsán, Northeast Ridge, Alpine-Style Second Ascent
Oriol Baró and Marc Toralles (Spain) completed what’s likely the second ascent and first alpine-style ascent of the northeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Nevado Humantay South, South and East Faces
At the end of October, Jark Barker and Emil Tjonneland, two spritely 18-year-olds from Maryland, and I left Soray Pampa, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Pico 24 September, Monypenny-McGhie Route
LATE IN THE climbing season of 2017, Harry McGhie and I (both U.K.) headed to the east side of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Lyap Nazar, First Ski Descent
Peter Schön and Andreas Riesner made the first ski descent of Lyap Nazar (5,990m) in August 2009 . This peak, recently ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Pik Pobeda East, First Ski Descent
IN THE SUMMER of 2010, after a  ski descent from Shkhara  in the Georgian Caucasus , Peter Schön ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Appendicitis
On June 4, mountaineering ranger Dan Corn and his team assessed a 23-year-old male for stomach pain at the 14,200-foot camp . ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Crevasse Fall and 15-Hour Rescue – Climbing Unroped
AT APPROXIMATELY 11:30 p.m. on June 4, an unroped climber fell into a crevasse just below the 7,800-foot camp on the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Altitude Illness (HAPE and HACE)
On June 16, a 28-year-old male climber died from suspected high altitude pulmonary and cerebral edema (HAPE and HACE) at approximately 17,500 ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Snow Blindness
On the evening of June 11, mountaineering rangers Melis Coady, Dave Weber, and Mark Westman responded to a 24-year-old male climber ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Avalanche and Knee Injury
On the afternoon of June 16, a 28-year-old male triggered and was subsequently caught in an avalanche while skiing the Rescue ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Shoulder Injury During Self-Arrest
On June 21, a 58-year-old male climber injured his right shoulder during a self-arrest to stop a roped teammate’s sliding ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Moskenesøya, Various New Routes
Catalan climbers Guille Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve, Pau Gómez, and Felix Queipo established multiple new routes in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Breiflogtinden, East Face, Arctic Odyssey
From July 20 to 22, Anar Demirov and Andrey and Dmitriy Panov completed the first ascent of the main east face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Illimani, South Face, Solo Ascent
During an extended trip through South America , James Monypenny (U.K.) made what’s probably the second solo ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Bedayan Minaret, East Ridge
On July 10, Giselle Fernandez and I made the first known ascent of the east ridge of Bedayan Minaret (12,080’). This feature ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
West Kahiltna Peak, Southwest Face, Ride the Bullet
On April 13, Kurt Ross, Steven Van Sickle, and I flew into Kahiltna International and skied to a point near Camp 1 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Shasta Annual Summary
In 2017 there were four climbing-related incidents on Mt. Shasta . One accident was the result of rockfall, while the other three ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Ground Fall – Protection Pulled Out
The Line (5.9), a popular traditional route, has been on my tick list for a couple of years . There’s normally ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Lowering Error – Rope Too Short for Climb
On the afternoon of December 22, Nicholas C. (29) led Dominion, a 5.10a crack. After pulling the crux and moving through 30 feet ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Jim Bridwell, 1944 – 2018
THE WORLD has lost a great climber, friend, and mentor . Jim Bridwell made huge contributions to the world of climbing. ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Cathedral Peak, Noble Beast
Cathedral Peak’s big east-facing wall, rising above Cathedral Lake in the eastern Wind Rivers, has a long history, attracting ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Charlotte Fox, 1957 – 2018
Charlotte Fox was strong and good in the mountains, not known for speed so much as being able to go ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Lower Leg Injuries: Assessment and Treatment
AMONG THE MOST COMMON sites for traumatic climber injuries are the lower leg and ankle . These injuries are also likely ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2018
Stranded – Failure to Rappel, Inexperience
On March 3, at 8:24 p.m., two male climbers (both in their early 20s) reported they were stranded partway up the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Off Route Rappel on the Nose
On the night of May 15, around midnight, two climbers (male and female, both in their 30s) reported they were stranded ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Muz Tau (Sauyr Zhotasy), Attempt from the North
After an attempt from the south in 2017 ( AAJ 2018 ) , Er ic Kowalski, Alex Tang, and I returned to the China-Kazakhstan border ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Tom Frost, 1937 – 2018
On August 24, Tom Frost—whose character and influence outshone his remarkable routes—died peacefully after a short battle ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection, Fatigue
The period from May 11–19 delivered a mix of spring weather to Yosemite. Cameron Brown (age 41) and I (Stephen Shostek, age 59) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Rappel Error – No Backup, No Helmet
At 6:59 p.m. on June 10, Yosemite dispatch received a report that a climber had rappelled off the end of her ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Deadly Rockfall
On the afternoons of September 27 and 28, a series of rockfalls occurred on the far right side of El Capitan, near ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Edward Cummings Boulton, 1927 – 2018
Edward (“Ed”) Boulton died at his home in North Seattle on September 27, 2018. He was 91 . Ed was born and raised in ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019
Mt. Blane, West Face, Life Compass
I met Brette Harrington at Gripped  magazine editor Brandon Pullan’s house—a veritable couch-surfing operation for climbers ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Negruni Range, Peak 5,396m, Traverse via Southwest Ridge and East Ridge
In March, Bolivian resident Davide Vitale and friends traversed Peak 5,396m in the Negruni Range of the central Cordillera Real. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chatyn-tau, North Face, First Free Ascent
From July 24–27, 2016, Maciej Bedrejczuk, Piotr Sulowski, and I made the first free ascent of the Rhombus, the outstanding north-facing feature ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Tsaranoro Atsimo, Blood Moon
Above the tiny rural villages of Madagascar’s Tsaranoro Valley, the granite walls stand proudly like ancient giants. The stone ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Moskenesøya Island, Various New Routes
Rob Lamey and Mike Rolf (U.K.) were active on Lofoten's westernmost island of Moskenesøya  in 2016, putting up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Illampu: Revisions of Climbing History on the West Side
THE HISTORY and exact whereabouts of established routes on Illampu, particularly its western aspect, has been something of a muddle. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Fall on Rock – Speed Climbing, Inadequate Protection
On October 11, Quinn Brett (female, 30s) was attempting a Nose in a Day ascent with Josie McKee when she took ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection
In October, Alex Doria was injured in a long fall on the third pitch of the Regular Northwest Face on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Fatal Fall, Possible Rappel Error
On November 17 two friends of Niels Tietze hiked to the base of Fifi Buttress to look for their overdue friend . ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Peak 6,153m, East-Northeast Ridge; Peak 5,920m, North Ridge
A five-man Japanese expedition comprising Tetsuji Otsue (leader), Shigekazu Kawajiri, Kiyotaka Nakamura, Koji Matsumoto, and Goto Tomio, with three Nepalese ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Baihali Jot, Northwest Pillar, Attempt
A BORDER DISPUTE with China dashed our hopes of a permit for Rangrik Rang, but at the last minute ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Ryan Johnson, 1983 – 2018
On a blindingly sunny day, March 5, 2018, Ryan Johnson's face radiated with the kind of satisfaction only an alpinist can appreciate . ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2019