Annapurna South Face Ascent and Tragedy. On December 20, Noboru Yamada, Yasuhira Saito, Teruo Saegusa and Toshiyuki Kobayashi reached the summit of Annapurna, completing the first winter ascent of the south face and the first ascent of the mountai...
Pico de la Plata. This massive mountain (5850 meters, 19,193 feet) has two summits: Cerro and Pico. The latter is some 150 meters lower. The Cerro’s steep east face has been climbed in both summer and winter, whereas no winter ascent had been made...
Middle Palisade, East Face. On August 31, Tim Ryan and I climbed a new route on the east face of Middle Palisade (14,040 feet). We cramponed up to the highest point of the glacier. Tim led the first pitch, the most difficult of the climb; this del...
FALL ON ICE, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, POOR CONDITIONS Washington, Leavenworth(On February 22, 1986, Bob Betsworth [31] had an ice climbing accident. He sent the following narrative, which has been edited with the...
Gratification Peak (11,600). Register placed on summit by writer on July 16th. Probably other unreported ascents of this easy peak were made later in the summer.Fritiof M. Fryxell, Grand Teton National Park.
Pik Moscow, Pamir Mountains, 1982. Czechs Stanislav Glejdura and Ladislav Kyrc made a new route on the 6500-foot north face of Pik Moscow (6785 meters, 22,260 feet) from August 1 to 4, 1982. Near the top of the face, rockfall drove them from the d...
Fitz Roy, Tehuelche and Supercanaleta, attempts. I spent a month with Chris Turiano, a very good and strong guy from Colorado. We were in Piedra del Fraile with the intention of attempting Tehuelche (1,200m, VI 5.11 A2) on the north face of Fitz R...
Nepalese Peak Fees. Climbers are concerned with a sizeable increase in the fees that the Nepalese government charges for permission to climb its peaks. On September 20, the Ministry of Tourism announced that fees were being raised for the start of...
Overview. The first team to visit the Peninsula during the season comprised Sergy Baranov, Rissa Bullock Ivory, Kris Erickson, Kip Garre, Nickolay Veselovskiy, Doug Stoop and Ilyas Mukhtarov. Traveling aboard Australis, skippered by Roger Wallis, ...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ANCHOR AND BELAY INADEQUATE California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn December 3, 1988, Boy Scout Troop #156 was conducting rappel training/practice on the north side wall of the Indian Cove Campground Amphitheater. One anch...
Scenic Guides, by Weldon F. Heald. Susanville, California: H. C. Johnson. Price, $1.50 each.Scenic Guide to Oregon. 100 pages, with photographs and maps. 1951.Scenic Guide to Nevada. 80 pages with photographs and maps. Revised edition, 1952.Scenic...
Trapecio, Southwest Spur, Cordillera Huayhuash. From the start I did not feel the easy euphoria of my previous Andean expeditions, possibly because I sensed the sacrifices and effort we should have to sustain, fighting wind and snow to get to the ...
California-Yosemite (3): On November 9, 1952, L. C. Ames, Jr., and Mrs. P. Kool from Victorville, California Air Force Base, were rescued from the cliff ledges about 120 feet above the valley floor near Yosemite Falls. They had registered for the ...
Chuscha, Cordillera de Catreal, Northern Andes, 1992. Argentines Pablo Sahade, Eduardo Arjona, leader Antonio Beorchia Nigris and Swiss Rafael Joliat ascended the Río Ovejeria and the Río Suri Ciénaga to reach this mountain, the highest in the ran...
Chilean-Japanese Expedition to the Central Cordillera. The expedition which was still in the field when the last A.A.J. went to press (see A.A.J., 1960, 12:1, p. 151) added to the list of first ascents already reported the following, all of which ...
STRANDED, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FAILURE TO LEARN DESCENT ROUTEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Taylor PeakOn December 12, Markin Fevughack (25) and Holley English (25) became stranded atop Thatchtop Mountain due to darkness after ...
Mount McKinley, Couloir from West Buttress Route to Kahiltna- horn. Reinhold Messner and I made a new ascent route on Mount McKinley on June 13. We started from the landing area on the Kahiltna Glacier on June 6 and climbed the West Buttress route...
California, Yosemite Valley. On July 16th Jerrold Goodwin (age 31) and Benjamin Wells (32) were on the first pitch of the MW Route of Sunnyside Bench. A falling body hurtled past and landed on the scree sixty feet below. Goodwin and Wells immediat...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. Japanese Akira Kiuchi, Ken Kodachi and high-altitude porter Barubiru attempted to climb the west ridge of Thalay Sagar. They established Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4750, 4900 and 5300 meters on May 21, 25 and 29. Snowfal...
North Face of Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite. Robert Kamps, Charles Pratt and Steven Roper made the first ascent of the north face of Middle Cathedral Rock in the summer of 1959 in two and one-half days. Yvon Chouinard reports that this climb, on...