Everest West Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Lluis Belvis, leader, Emili Civis, Manuel Mateu, Jordi Pons, Jaume Altadill, Oscar Cadiach, Narcis Serrat, Alfons Valls, Jordi Sugranyes, Xáxier Pérez Gil, Lluis Hortala, Josep Vidal Ponce...
Moose’s Tooth, Direct East Pillar (a.k.a. The Beast). On the 5,000-foot east face of the Moose’s Tooth, site of the historic The Dance of the Woo Li Masters (Jim Bridwell and Mugs Stump, 1981), Bridwell and Spencer Pfingsten established the Direct...
Mongolian Altai. Interesting information has come to us from Ichiro Yoshizawa about a Japanese expedition which climbed in early August in the Mongolian Altai Range. Unfortunately the Editor does not have adequate maps to check spellings of peaks ...
Mount Redoubt, Northeast Face. Those who carefully appraise the big wall challenges of the North Cascades will likely agree that the most serious ice problems exist on Fury, Shuksan, Maude, and Redoubt. Of these, only Redoubt had not seen the cram...
Himàlaya e Karakorùm, by Mario Fantin. Milano: Club Alpino Italiano, 1978. 248 pages, 97 photographs, various maps.Mario Fantin, the well-known Italian authority on the mountains of the world, has given us an excellent and handsome book and a high...
Grandes Jorasses. The past summer witnessed a veritable epidemic of attempts to climb the north face of this mountain, at one point three different parties being on the peak at the same time. One of these attempts ended fatally when retreat was fo...
Sarapo Southwest Face. Our expedition consisted of Peruvian Alberto Callupe, Swiss Louis Deuber, Austrian Richard Franzl, German Hans Zebrowski and me. After trekking in the region, we established our Base Camp below Sarapo Qocha. Our objective wa...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCKWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn August 3, 1983, John Gorton (23) was climbing the rock face just below the balanced rock. He stated that he was using a Friend which he thought was in tight. He had been hangi...
A Progress in Mountaineering, by J. H. B. Bell. xii+424 pages, with a foreword by F. S. Smythe, 34 photographic illustrations, drawings by Joan Tebbutt, and maps and diagrams by Mrs. Bell. Edinburgh and London: Oliver and Boyd, 1950.Readers of the...
Torres de Paine, South Tower, Nearly Complete Ascent of West Face, 1987. We were Antonio Prestini, Lornza Bergamaschi, Enzo Parazzoli, Luciano Maiocchi, Elio Guastalli, Caterina Delle Mese and I as leader. We got to the “Italian Base Camp” on Dece...
HEART ATTACKNew Hampshire, Whitehorse LedgeOn October 26, 1985, James Baldwin (55) died of an apparent heart attack while at the belay point on the third pitch of the Standard Route on Whitehorse. He showed no signs of discomfort prior to his deat...
Gongga Shan Attempt. Canadians led by Roger Griffiths attempted the first-ascent route on Gongga Shan in the spring. They were plagued by bad weather, avalanches and an accident and did not reach the ridge. Details are lacking.
Artesonraju, northeast face. In June 2000 Spaniards Nemisio Matalobos and Angel Terrain established a ca 800-meter route rated alpine D (55 degrees) on the northeast face, which is accessed from the upper Santa Cruz Valley. The route lies between ...
Austrian Alps: Gross Glockner. An accident on this, Austria’s highest peak, was reported on 17 September 1949. It involved Michael Edison Sloane, of Llewellyn Park, New Jersey. It seems that this young student wandered away from a conducted tour a...
Climbs in the Franklin Mountains. During the first week of August, Bill Dougherty and I made a traverse and four ascents in the Chamberlin Spur. Our initial ascent was of Mount Chamberlin itself, which in a recent survey has regained its status as...
Oregon, Mt. Hood. On 11 September Raymond U. Stout (27) and Barry Carnley (27) had ascended Mt. Hood via the Cooper Spur route and were descending the South face route. Weather was windy and foggy. The two were roped but not belaying. They slipped...
Puscanturpa, Barne Sua. From June 27 to 29, Spanish (Basque) climbers Mikel Bonilla and Aitor Abendaño climbed the north face of Puscanturpa via a variation to the 2000 French route, Macanacota (AAJ 2001, p. 284). They began up a diagonal crack ...
Shicra, west face and southeast ridge. On July 5 Evelio Echevarria, Consuelo Amorós (my wife), and I left the mining town Pachapaqui, and reached the foot of the snowy peak local muleteers call Shicra (5,195-5,198m, per altimeter). This is the pea...
P 7542, Talkeetna Mountains. On June 29 Dick Nystrom and I headed north out of Palmer and parked our car where we crossed Granite Creek. After two days and 12 miles we made our Base Camp. On July 1 our prearranged airdrop arrived. After four days ...
Oxygen Transport to Human Tissues. Edited by Jack A. Loeppky and Marvin L. Riedesel. Elzevier Medical, New York, 1982. 374 pages. Illustrations. $45. Oxygen Transport to Human Tissues is another collection of papers given at a symposium. This one ...