International Travel Health Guide. Stuart R. Rose. Travel Medicine Inc., Northampton, Mass., 1989. 228 pages. $12.95.Though this does not pretend to emulate the hoary “Hints to Travellers”, which ran to a dozen editions beginning in 1854, it's an ...
Elephant’s Perch, Northwest Face, Sawtooth Range. Chris Puchner and I attempted a new route on the northwest face of Elephant’s Perch in 1975 but ran out of thin-crack aid gear. In 1977 Mike Paine, Jennifer Jones and I completed the eleven-lead ro...
Mount Logan, via King Col. The Alpine Club of Gakushuin University sent an expedition under the leadership of Iwao Kawasaki with the following members: Minosuke Takano, Jiro Kawamura, Taizo Komori, Hideo Nishikigori, Masahiro Ishikawa, Hiroyuki Sa...
STRANDED, ROPE ENTANGLED ON RAPPEL Pennsylvania, Delaware Water Gap NRA, Mount TammanyOn May 22, 1994, about 1230, Angelo Schembari (23) and Kristen Rawl (20) parked at the State Lot off I-80 and hiked to the “Head Wall” of Mount Tammany where the...
El Chancero, Northwest Face, Sierra Juárez On April 30 Steve Eddy, Mark Meng and I climbed E1 Chancero’s dome-like northwest face. The name, meaning “The Jester,” reflects the agony and frustration of reconnaissance by more than one party. In dire...
Climbs in Zion National Park. Bill Forrest and I did two new climbs in Kolob Canyon. In June we climbed the Great Rib of Kolob (NCCS VI, F9, A2). We followed the prominent northwest rib of Timber Top Mesa, climbing three distinct pillars; we climb...
Kolob Canyon, Nugget Mesa, Sheehe Buttress. In October, Kathy Dicker and I made the first ascent of Kolob Canyon’s Nugget Mesa (the buttress left of the waterfall). Our climb, Sheehe Buttress (V 5.10 A3), takes the obvious, most central line up th...
Bonanza Peak, Winter Ascent. On December 28 my brother Gordon, Mark Bebie, and I completed a winter climb of Bonanza Peak. We followed the Mary Green Glacier route to the summit on the third of five days out from Holden Village. Fortunately, somew...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE California, Mt. WhitneyRollie Averitt (58) and Mark Smith were climbing Mt. Whitney by the Mountaineer’s Route on July 19. As they neared the top of the chute, Averitt left the tedious scree and boulders in th...
Mount Kennedy, North Ridge. A four-man group, David Seidman, Philip Koch, Todd Thompson and Joseph Faint, were landed by plane at 8000 feet in late June on the north fork of the Lowell Glacier at the foot of the north ridge of Mount Kennedy (13,90...
FALL ON ICE, WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Mount ShastaOn June 25, Lois Johnson (52) and her husband Tom had camped at Lake Helen and were climbing the standard Avalanche Glacier route when she lost her balance while putting on dark glas...
Tawoche, Northeast Buttress. Mick Fowler and Pat Littlejohn climbed the northeast buttress in four and a half days in April. They followed the line previously tried by a French team in 1990 and climbed up left to a right-slanting ramp line to gain...
Southern Patagonian Icecap. A group of the Associación Universitaria de Andinismo has just completed on January 15, 1963 a round-trip crossing of the Southern Patagonian Icecap. They left Punta Arenas at the end of November and were taken to their...
Adamant Mountain, North Ridge, Selkirks. From the Granite glacier the north ridge of Adamant appeared to be one of the most appealing climbs in the Adamant range, and as far as we could tell, it remained unclimbed. On August 27 Gary Colliver, Bob ...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Deltaform MountainAt 6:30 a.m. on August 18, 1981, four men began an ascent of Deltaform Mountain via the north glacier route. By noon they had gained the rock rib above the most difficult ice. They left the i...
With both Chilean and Argentine Patagonia reports, we rely heavily on climbers to contact us as soon as they return in order to include their accounts in appropriate volumes of the Journal. This means we sometimes miss first-hand accounts. When po...
New York Section. In 2010 the New York Section of the American Alpine Club continued its upward trajectory as new records were set in terms of membership count and number and variety of events, both indoors and outdoors. Starting with the latter, ...
Yalungkang Tragedy. A nine-man Mexican expedition was led by José Manuel Casanova. They were on the south-face route of the Austro-German expedition of 1975. They established four high camps. Hugo Saldana and Alfonso Medina never returned from the...
Chopicalqui, West Face, Piece of Happiness. In July, I climbed a new route on the west face of Chopicalqui with Bostjan Perse. The name of the route is Piece of Happiness (D 80°, 500m). We started to climb at about 5400 meters and finished at 5900...
Illimani and Huayna Potosí. Although Illimani (21,201 feet) and Huayna Potosí (19,996 feet) have both been climbed by numerous parties, they were climbed in August for the first time by a woman, when the German Anneliese Stobl ascended them with L...