Mt. Sidley (4,285m). Nowadays, any climbing expedition to inland Antarctica, outside the Ellsworths, is significant. Mt. Sidley, highest peak in the Executive Committee Range, and highest volcano in Antarctica, was first climbed on January 11, 199...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Somewhere in San Diego CountyOn November 27, 1988, Mike and I went back to one of our obscure, local and non-zooed out climbing areas that we’ve put in a trail to and have been systematically ticking...
A Climber's Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada, by J. Monroe Thorington. Revised edition (fifth printing). 12mo; xxii + 345 pages. The American Alpine Club (113 East 90th St., New York 28, N. Y.), 1953. Price $4.00, postpaid.The fifth printing...
Sarapo, Direct East Face. Alfred Sperlich, Dr. Oskar Tutzer and I reached Base Camp at 13,625 feet at Carhuacocha on July 22. The weather had been bad for two months but improved two days after our arrival. We attempted the north ridge of Jirishan...
California—Yosemite (2): On September 4, 1952, Arthur Baldonade (20) and his brother Robert (15) were rescued by rangers from the cliff ledges about 1000 feet above the valley floor near Columbia Point where they had become stranded on the ledge o...
Luracatao and Other Peaks, Northern Andes, 1992. Alfio Arjona, Miguel Uturbé and Enrique Cabrera made two first ascents between February 6 and 10, 1992. They climbed Luracatao (5330 meters, 17,487 feet) and nearby Lurahuasi (5400 meters, 17,716 fe...
Cerro Tronco. Two members of the Club Alemán de Excurcionismo in February made the first ascent of the Cerro Tronco (18,080 feet on some maps and 18,373 feet on others), which lies on the Argentine border east-northeast of Santiago. To accomplish ...
STRANDED, WEATHER, ROUTE FINDING PROBLEMColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn September 15, Jim Mauch (33) and Cathy Casey (34) set out to climb Kiener’s Route on Longs Peak. Climbing conditions were somewhat icy and the party was s...
Without the help of many people other than the Editorial Board, it would be impossible to publish this section. We are very grateful to all who have been of such great help, though we can not mention all of them here. We do however want to thank e...
California, Yosemite Valley. On June 17th Charles Stanbrough (age 19) set out to solo the Steck route on Higher Cathedral Spire. The next day his body was found at the base of the route. He did not sign out and none of his friends had missed him. ...
Bhrigupanth. An Indian team climbed this peak (6772 meters, 22,218 feet) by the northwest face and attempted the north ridge. They established Base Camp on Kedar Tal on August 18. Four experienced Sherpas with Divyesh Muni and E. Theophyllus climb...
East Face of Washington Column, Yosemite. The completely overhanging, 1500-foot east face of Washington Column was first attempted by Warren Harding, Richard Calderwood and George Whitmore in June of 1958. They climbed some 600 feet in two days be...
Colchuck Peak. In January, 1975 Skip Edmonds, Clark Gerhardt, Paula Kregel and I made the first ascent as well as the first winter ascent of a couloir to the right of the northeast buttress. A 60° headwall was the major difficulty.Greg Markov
SLIP ON STICK, WEATHER, DARKNESS, FATIGUE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount IshbelOn June 18, 1994, O.M.(45) and C.C.(39) started off in sunshine to climb Mount Ishbel (2908 meters), near Banff, by the South Ridge. After a few hours of routine scram...
Diran Attempt. Pole Aleksander Lwow, Americans Randy Rhodes, Ken Nolan, Steve Truitt, Clay McGann and I as leader attempted the standard west-ridge route on Diran. Extreme avalanche danger on the north face which led to the ridge prevented our cli...
Glacier Point Apron. Although many excellent routes have been done on the exfoliation slabs on the Apron, only two routes had been made to the Apron’s top. After two unsuccessful attempts in the spring, on September 6, 1965 Dave Birchiff and I suc...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. The past year saw still another increase in the club’s membership. We are becoming hard pressed to provide adequate leadership to accommodate the large influx of beginners. In the absence of a club-sponsored mountain o...
Swagarohini I. Swargarohini I (6252 meters, 20,512 feet) had been attempted unsuccessfully by fifteen expeditions. An Indian expedition claimed that they reached a point five meters lower than the summit but had to stop because a cornice made it t...
Sajama and Illimani, Measurements and Ascents. During 1994, in conjunction with the Military Geographic Institute (IGM) of Bolivia, I conducted differential GPS surveys of the mountains Sajama and Illimani. The purpose was to measure the heights o...
STRANDED, OFF ROUTEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn July 24, 1993, at 2330, I received a phone call from NPS dispatch. The dispatcher told me that ranger Jim Woodmencey was at the Lower Saddle of the Grand Teton and reported repea...