Tirich Mir, North-Northwest Face, Attempt. A seven-member Spanish Tirich Mir expedition led by Carlos Soria Fontan (56) made an unsuccessful attempt on the north-northwest face route on Tirich Mir (7706 m). The group was attempting to make the sec...
Winter Ice Climbs. In March Bill Robins and I climbed a new frozen waterfall located in Santiquin Canyon. This climb—Angel of Fear—consisted of a single, mostly detached 200-foot pillar of ice. We ascended the left side of the pillar, up much over...
FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 26, 1982 John Rahhal (22) broke a tibia and fibula when he fell from a climb called “Doggie Deviation” in Camp IV. He was 15–16 meters off the ground when his foot slipped out of a crack. He fell about...
Chimborazo. Italian A. Campanile made what he feels was a new route to the right of the Direttissima to the summit of Cima Ventimilla. There were considerable difficulties in the ice of the upper part, especially below the final séracs, where the ...
FALL ON SNOW, SKI MOUNTAINEERINGAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Peyto GlacierOn April 15, 1984, in Banff National Park, a party of six ski mountaineers traveled from the Icefield Parkway, via Peyto Lake, to the Peter and Catherine Whyte hut at 2500 mete...
ILLNESS–COLITISAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 1825 on May 19, Christopher Allewell (age unknown) was assisted into the 14,200-foot NPS medical tent by his teammates. His chief complaint was severe abdominal pain and a mild headache. Upon ...
Teram Kangri 11, 1978. On page 298 of A.A.J., 1981 we reported a 1980 Indian expedition which crossed the Cease-Fire Line and entered what is generally considered to be Pakistan. This was apparently not the first such expedition. The Himalayan Jou...
FALLING ROCK-PINNED CLIMBERBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo Spire, Kain RouteOn August 20, ten Golden Search and Rescue members responded along with Parks Canada and Canadian Mountain Helicopters to rescue a climber pinned under a rock...
Bhrikuti Unclimbed? After considerable effort, the Austrian Himalayan Society got permission to enter the restricted Mustang area to attempt Bhrikuti, the highest of the Damodar Himal. (See A.A.J., 1983, page 246 for details.) Since it was said to...
Whale’s Back, Avalanche Peak and Citadel, Kichatna Spires. My husband Gino Buscaini, Helma Schimke and I were flown to the Shadows Glacier by Doug Geetings. We all climbed Whale’s Back by the north ridge on May 22, Avalanche Peak by the east face ...
Chobutse. New Zealanders led by John Nankervis were the first from their country to climb Chobutse and the second from any country. During acclimatization, they visited the Drolambao Glacier where they climbed several 6000-meter peaks, some of the...
Pamiagdluk Island, new routes on the Baron and Baronet. About two weeks after the Anglo-Irish team mentioned above, a seven-member British team set up Base camp to the south west of the Baron, two to three hours above the Baroness Base Camp. From ...
Annapurna Winter Attempt. Our Canadian-American expedition was an unsuccessful attempt to make the second winter ascent of Annapurna by a new route on the eastern end of the south face. We were Ken Reville, Julien Marceau, Steve and Don Adamson, J...
Peaks in Las Cuevas Valley. During a folklore-collection trip along the valley of Las Cuevas in the hinterland of Mendoza, I managed several climbs. I entered the hitherto unexplored lateral valleys of Los Gemelos (south of the international highw...
The north face of Peak 11,440+ in the Mineral King region drops sheerly into Spring Lake. Unknown to Vern Clevenger and me, Fred Beckey had climbed the right side of the face earlier in 1975. As we veered from the unofficial trail to approach the ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT Utah, Little Cottonwood CanyonOn June 12, 1986, Chris Bradley (26) was climbing Half Finger Chimney with two friends. He was leading when his top piece of protection pulled and he fell about 12 meters, suffering...
Symmetry Spire (10,500). First traverse and ascent from west on July 13th, by William Cederberg, Rudolph Edmund, Leland Horberg, Neumann Kerndt, Elof Peterson, and the writer.
Kongur, Attempt from the North. Ian Wade, Matt Wells, Dick Morse and I made an attempt on the north side of Kongur (7719 meters, 25,325 feet) during June. We spent some days probing various routes on the lower sections of the buttress attempted by...
Aguja Mermoz, Vol de Nuit, first winter ascent. In early August Ian Parnell and I arrived in a cold and snowy Chalten, bound for Fitz Roy. Within three days we had dug a meter-deep trench all the way to the Paso Superior, spending two of those day...
Kokthang. A 12-member team from Calcutta climbed Kokthang (6147 meters, 20,167 feet) via the northeast face from Camp II at 5425 meters. On May 12, Dipak Kumar Bose, Parijat Chowdhury and Sherpas Kami, Lhakpa Tsering and Tharchen Tsering reached t...