The mountains of the Stanovoi Range are located to the east of Lake Baikal in southeastern Russia. This vast territory, referred to as Transbaikalia, is crossed by the central part of the Baikal-Amur Railroad (BAM). The mountains have an alpine ap...
On March 2, a climber was five to seven meters into a lead on Pearl Necklace (50 m. WI 5+), without placing any protection. He had placed a tool and kicked one foot into a free-hanging icicle when it broke. The climber barn-doored backward, then f...
Central Rockies Section. On January 21 the Section hosted the debut showing of Skiing Mount Everest and the High Himalayas in the Foss Auditorium of the American Mountaineering Center in Golden. The movie was produced by Aspen resident and AAC mem...
Early morning on September 20, Joe Forrester and I descended the SOB Gully to climb the Porcelain Arête (IV 5.10). When we arrived at the base of the PA buttress, though, we were disheartened by a lack of significant crack or corner systems....
Attempt on Malubiting. After driving to Pakistan, we had to wait for three weeks before we were granted permission on June 3 for Malubiting (24,451 feet). Our original objective in the Batura was not allowed. Four expeditions had previously unsucc...
Patal Hiunchuli Attempt. A seven-woman Japanese expedition was given up after Hiroko Fujii, Noriko Yamazaki and a Sherpa were killed on October 9 by an avalanche low on Patal Hiunchuli (20,890 feet). The expedition, led by Hiroko Asano, was attemp...
Latus Pass Arm, various ascents and attempts. There are four main tributaries on the south side of Kaskawulsh Glacier: South Arm, Stairway, Cascade, and, farthest from Slims River, the Latus Pass Arm. In July we made a short visit to the Latus Pas...
FALLING ICE, NO HARD HATWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierOn June 4, an ice fall occurred from the top of an 80- to 100-oot ice cliff that the climbing route crosses underneath. In the path were Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., guides and cl...
Rocky Mountains of CanadaThe following data correct and supplement the 1940 edition of the Guidebook.Mt. Brezvster. 1926 first ascent by H. W. G. Greenham, Miss D. Pilley. From camp at foot of Mt. Edith, crossing Edith Pass and down Forty mile Cre...
Peak 7547. This peak, located in the North Cascades north of Cutthroat Peak, was climbed last September by Trish and Charley Raymond and me by the prominent Northeast Arête. The climb begins in a deep chimney and the last lead terminates directly ...
Pasayten Wilderness, Amphitheater Peak, Cathedral Peak, Deacon Peak, three new routes. Alpine climbing, especially new routing, can be an uncomfortable, frightening, and challenging experience, one whose merits are only truly appreciated in hindsi...
Mount Asgard, East Face, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. We were lured back into the Canadian Arctic by two granite walls that reached into the sky, making a beautiful 2000-foot dihedral on the west face of Asgard (6600 feet). Californian Den...
Mt. Cook, first ski descent and probable third ascent. On May 5 Paul Swanstrom of Haines (Alaska Mountain Flying and Travel) flew Peter Linn, Andrew McGarry, Kiajsa Krieger, Scott Morely, and I from Yakutat to a landing zone on the upper Seward Gl...
FALL ON ROCK, SOLO CLIMBING WITH NO PROTECTIONColorado, Boulder Canyon, The DomeOn October 26, Scott Hamilton (49) lost his grip while climbing a difficult route on The Dome without ropes, safety gear, or a helmet. He fell more than 150 feet, hit ...
The Mountain World, 1960/61, edited for the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research by Hans Richard Müller and Marcel Kurz; English version by Malcolm Barnes. Zürich: Schweizerische Stiftung fur Alpine Forschungen; New York: Rand McNally, 1961. 262 p...
Mt. Alberta, West Face. I first saw a photo of the face in a 1989 Climbing magazine. A spectacular aerial shot showed a wall of black limestone topped by a dazzlingly white summit ridge, with a rare blue sky. A gothic flying buttress, rising grace...
FALL ON ROCK-JUMPED INSTEAD OF DOWN-CLIMBINGCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows, Matthes CrestOn August 2 5, Mark Sorenson (3 8) and David Parrish (3 8) were climbing Matthes Crest and were about at the halfway point when this acc...
Irish Expedition to Tasermiut Fjord, South Greenland. We spent a month at the head of Tasermiut Fjord near Cape Farewell. The area is not renowned for good weather, but eight fine days out of thirty must be a new low. Shay Billane and Lindsay Grif...
Kwangde South or Nupla. We made the first ascent of Kwangde South, climbing its northeast ridge. [The peak lies 3 kilometers southeast of the main peak. On Erwin Schneider’s map, Shorung/Hingu it is called Nupla.—Editor.] The climbing team include...
Hypoxia; Man at High Altitude. Edited by John Sutton, Norman Jones, and Charles Houston. Thieme-Stratton, New York, 1982. 210 pages. Many illustrations. $35.Hypoxia; Man at Altitude, like the preceding book, is a collection of papers given at the ...