In Memoriam AAJ
Daniel Underhill, 1874-1951

DANIEL UNDERHILL1874-1951Daniel Underhill died suddenly on 1 July 1951 at Jericho, L. I., in the house where he was born 77 years ago. He was a direct descendant of Capt. John Underhill (fl. 1630) and Halen Kreuger. He was a graduate of Friends Ac...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mountain Sheep and Man in the Northern Wilds

Mountain Sheep and Man in the Northern Wilds, by Valerius Geist, Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1975. 248 pages, black and white photos, charts. Price: $10.00Why review a book on sheep in an alpine journal? Because the author has something very...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Nuptse (7,864m), South Face, Are You Experienced? (Not to Summit)

Nuptse (7,864m), south face, Are You Experienced? (not to summit). October 11: Here I am again at the base of the south face of Nuptse. I see the superb line of gullies that cuts through the bottom of the wall for more than 300m, then fades into t...


Book Reviews AAJ
Light Weight Camping Equipment

Light Weight Camping Equipment, by Gerry Cunningham and Meg Hans- son. Ward, Colorado: Highlander Publishing Company, 1959. 127 pages, numerous diagrams.This short, easily readable book contains a truly wonderful store of knowledge about camping e...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Montana, Glacier National Park, Various Ascents

Glacier National Park, Various Ascents. E1 Niño gave northwest Montana the unusual mix of cold weather and little snow in November and December. As a result, most of the park roads were kept open, giving climbers easier access to several remote ba...


Feature Article AAJ
The North Face of Mount Geikie

The North Face of Mount GeikieJohn R. Hudson"I am sure you have given me all the heaviest stuff," said Frodo. "I pity snails, and all that carry their homes on their backs”T. R. R. Tolkien, The Fellowship of the RingIAPOLOGIZE, dear reader,for the...


Book Reviews AAJ
Anderl Heckmair: My Life, Eiger North Face, Grand Jorasses and Other Adventures

Anderl Heckmair: My Life, Eiger North Face, Grand Jorasses and Other Adventures. Anderl Heckmair. Translated by Tim Carruthers. Foreword by Reinhold Messner. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2002. 304 pages. $24.95.While best known for his role in...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

TABLE IIINumbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved1951-761959-7619771977USACAN.USACAN.Terrain1Rock14281277026Snow8001104135Ice25391River6111Unknown10200Ascent or DescentAscent11071325525Descent94691458Unknown1458164Immediate CauseFall or slip on ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Bandaka Group

Bandaka Group. The members of the Japanese R.C.C. II* Expedition were Shigeo Yasukawa, leader, Shiro Shirahata, Takeshi Ishii, Hiroshi Hotta, Gaiki Ohashi, Kunio Nagasawa and myself as deputy leader. Our advance party, Ishii and I, arrived at Kabu...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection—Anchor Sling Knot, North Carolina, Stone Mountain, The Great Arch

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—ANCHOR SLING KNOT North Carolina, Stone Mountain, The Great ArchOn May 25, I was climbing at Stone Mountain, NC. Hoping to do some sport climbing (I read that the routes were sparsely bolted) I brought only a li...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Rolwaling Himal, Shishapangma, First Winter Ascent

Shishapangma, first winter ascent. I was sick and tired of the extra-European alpinism I was doing; I did not find it as enthralling as 1 had imagined when as a young aspiring alpinist I read of the big undertakings on the great mountains of the E...


Book Reviews AAJ
Flowers of the Western Himalayas

Flowers of the Western Himalayas. Rupin Dang. Indus, Harper Collins, NewDelhi, India, 1993. 140 pages, many color photographs.This is a guide to a small area of the Himalaya but it covers the territory often visited by naturalists, trekkers and to...


Book Reviews AAJ
Up and Down California in 1860-1864

Up and Down California in 1S60-1864, the Journal of William H.Brewer. Edited by Francis P. Farquhar. Yale University Press, New Haven, 1930. Pp., 601 ; illustrations, 63; price, $6.00.During the past century American mountaineers have keenly follo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Yosemite, Tuolumne Meadows

Tuolumne Meadows. In Tuolumne Meadows, face-climbing standards are being pushed higher and higher. John Bacher has almost singlehandedly rewritten the rules in an area where the bolt is the most standard protection device; many of his climbs invol...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment Peak

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment Peak—Arthur N. Plaxton (20), and Richard O. Parmelee (20), an employee at Jackson Lake Lodge, left a note at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station at 7:30 a.m. on September 3. It stated that they were goi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Siguniang IV, Southwest Face

Siguniang IV, southwest face. Our initial team of four, which intended a leisurely trip to Siguniang National Park, saw itself reduced to two: Steve Wai Wah Yip (Geordie) and I. We decided to play on granite faces in the Changping Gou, walls that ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Trends and New Routes

Washington, trends and new routes. The summer of 2003 unfolded as the driest in a century, with rainfall 70-85% below normal. Seattle temperatures topped 70 degrees for a record 61 consecutive days. The unusual number of hot, dry days resulted in ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Ice, AMS, Exposure, Inadequate Clothing, Inexperience, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

SLIP ON ICE, AMS, EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress.May 13, Rangers Kevin Moore and Scott Metcalfe with volunteers Jay Hammond and John Evans carried loads from 14,200 feet to 16,200 feet on the West ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mountain Flowers of New England

Mountain Flowers of New England. By a committee of the Appalachian Mountain Club, Miriam Underhill, chairman. Boston: Appalachian Mountain Club, 5 Joy Street. 147 pages, ills. 32 color plates. Price $4.50.To some of us it is the flowers of the mou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, "Ice Cream Cone Mountain," Chugach Range

“Ice Cream Cone Mountain” Chugach Range. After a hair-raising crossing of the murky, rushing Matanuska River in a delapidated rowboat, John Samuelson, Hans Van der Laan and I followed fine, three-foot-wide moose freeways up the east fork of Carpen...