Kara-su valley, Asan, Alperien Route, variant finish. Through friends in China who had contacts with local Kyrgyz, I acquired permission to visit an area in Uzbekistan. I got the idea from photos taken from a helicopter by an Austrian friend. Our ...
The Mountain World 1956/57. Edited for the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research by Othmar Gurtner and Marcel Kurz; English version edited by Malcolm Barnes. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1957. 200 pages; ills. Price $6.00.The current issue of T...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPED Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 11, 1992, Dave Fulton (31) and Robert Bums were descending from a carry to Windy Corner on the West Buttress back to their camp at 11,000 feet on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. They we...
South Face of St. EliasWalter R. Gove and Andrew PolitzGOVE BEGINS: There are mountains in the world, a few, which have a quality that sets them apart from all others. St. Elias is such a mountain. At 18,008 feet it stands isolated, facing the Gul...
Mt. Mustagh Ata, East Ridge. In 1994, Dan Waugh had seen and photographed the east ridge of Mustagh Ata (7546m) and suggested we might try to be the first to climb it. Through correspondence with Japanese Alpine Club members, including Masanori Su...
Latok I, attempt; Porter Peak, first ascent. On August 22 Whit Magro and I arrived on the Chok- toi Glacier for my second trip in as many years to the north side of Latok I (7,145m). Last year Bean Bowers and I spent 42 days below Latok without an...
With You in SpiritA solo climb with an old friendby Conrad AnkerInterior Antarctica is a desolate place. The diversity and amount of vegetation of a normal suburban lawn far exceeds the sum of living things in the Ellsworth Mountains. The land is ...
Mount Thompson, Winter Ascent. Jim McCarthy and I made the first winter ascent via the east ridge in early February, 1975.Greg Markov
Nuptse, south pillar attempt. The Nuptse International South Face Expedition (a.k.a. the Slo/Can/Am—emphasis on Slo) was concluded at the end of May, 2002. Team members were Marko Prezelj (Slovenia), Barry Blanchard (Canada), Stephen Koch (USA), a...
Strung-out deep in the remote mountains of northern Pakistan in early September, Vince Anderson and Steve House heard drumming. They saw fires burning in the valley below, a region reportedly rife with Islamic militants. In the ensuing days, all t...
A Chamois Hunt at Anzeindaz in 1770The story which follows contains one of the most entertaining hunting adventures of the eighteenth century. The writer was a young theological student, Johannes Gabriel Fayod, of Bex, a correspondent of the elder...
The Atmosphere of DiscoveryEd WebsterFIRST IMPRESSIONS linger in the mind … the river rampages through the bottom of the canyon. Its roar is deafening. The blazing sun rises ceremoniously over the silent desert landscape. These two climbing areas,...
Bhagarathi III, direct southwest pillar, Stairway to Heaven. In 2000 and 2001 Walter Hölzler attempted the direct southwest Pillar of Bhagarathi III, left of the now quasi-classic 1982 Barton-Shaw Route (also called the Scottish Route). On the sec...
Early American Travellers in the AlpsDr. John Morgan’s Crossing of the Mont Cenis Pass, 1764DR. JOHN MORGAN (1735-89) served as a lieutenant in the expedition of General Forbes to Fort Duquesne. Resigning from the army in 1760, he went to London f...
The Tusk Attempt, Chigmit Mountains. In June Fred Beckey, Craig Martinson and I made an attempt on the Tusk, an impressive 1000-foot tower in the Merrill Pass area, about 100 miles southwest of Anchorage. We turned back at about the same point as ...
Spindrift avalanches pass the door of our snow cave. A grin grows wide on Ben Gilmore’s face as he raises his fist triumphantly. Two thousand feet up the Wall of Shadows we discovered this crystal cavern to enjoy shelter from the storm. We stumble...
Overview. Climbing activity in the Indian Himalaya has decreased. The number of both foreign and national expeditions was reduced. Fewer peaks are being attempted, especially the more challenging peaks and routes. One important deterrent is the un...
HimalchuliMichael YagerAN HOUR AFTER we had set up the tent and crawled inside, the wind picked up. While Pema began to boil water for drinks and tukpa (noodles), and to prepare his special sauce—a mixture of garlic and chilis used by Sherpas to p...
SETH SHAW1962-2000Seth Thomas “ST” Shaw and Tim Wagner had successfully climbed a new route on the east face/southeast couloir of Mt. Johnson in the Ruth Gorge of the Alaska Range when, on an overcast rest day, the two set out for a bit of ice bou...
FALL ON ROCK – RAPPEL ERROR, FATIGUE, POSSIBLE HASTEWashington, Beacon Rocks State ParkOn July 24, Nathan Turner (30) and his partner were in the second rappel of “Jill’s Thrill,” a common descent route for the area. The first rappel placed the tw...