Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Nyainqentanglha Range, Nyanchen Thanglha Southeast Summit, Probable First Ascent

Nyanchen Thanglha southeast summit, probable first ascent. From April 12 to June 1 I guided an international expedition to the Nyanchen Thanglha (also spelled Nyainqentanglha) range. Our idea was to acclimatize for 10 days before heading to Mt. Ev...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Schwanda Peak and P 8130

Schwanda Peak and P 8130, Brooks Range. I led a trip up the Jago River and over a 7000-foot pass near the Continental Divide to the Hulahula River. On the way Vess Irvine, Ken Jonaitis, Rick Mohun and I climbed Schwanda Peak in a 17-hour day on Au...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington - Cascade Mountains, Picket Range, Carpetbaggers Traverse

Picket Range, Carpetbaggers Traverse. During July, Joan and Carla Firey, Dave Knudson and 1 made an eleven-day high circuit of the Goodell Creek Drainage in the Pickets. We entered the group from the south following Ed Cooper’s approach to a camps...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Apostelens Tommelfinger and Other Peaks, Lindenows Fjord, South Greenland

Apostelens Tommelfinger and Other Peaks, Lindenows Fjord, South Greenland. The High Mountain Military Group Expedition was composed of Colonel Dr. J. Sarrat-Bournet, Major J.P. Peeters, Captain M. Rabet, Lieutenant A. Estève, Chief Adjutant A. Rey...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Sajama

Sajama. In May Jim Lilley, Ellen J. Harpham, Ann Hughes and I reached the summit of Sajama (21,424 feet) by the Japanese route on the north ridge.Jack Miller


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Peaks in Noshaq Group and Kohe Zebak

Peaks in Noshaq Group and Kohe Zebak. Roger Everett, Lindsay Griffin, David Lund, Julia Yeomans and I spent 27 days in September and early October making alpine-type ascents in the Noshaq group and then on the south side of the Kalan wall of the K...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Montana, Mount Wood, North Face, Beartooth Mountains

Mount Wood, North Face, Beartooth Mountains. On August 31 Robert Miller and I climbed the north face of Mount Wood, second highest peak in Montana (12,661 feet). We reached the Stillwater Plateau from the Ben Bow Mine road, crossed five miles of b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nilgiri North Attempt

Nilgiri North Attempt. Two Japanese, Kenzo Ichikawa and Nobuyaki Takeda, attempted 23,166-foot Nilgiri North by a new route, the southwest face, but were stopped on September 30 because of bad weather and because the route above 19,350 feet seemed...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Mount Blum, North Ridge

Mount Blum, North Ridge. This granitic ridge was climbed September 16 by Dave Hutchinson, Phil Leatherman, and Mark Weigelt. Crossing the glacier, they by-passed a moat by climbing a chockstone-filled gully. Several difficult pitches led to easier...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Janapampa, Taulliraju Group

Janapampa, Taulliraju Group. Members of our group made two climbs which are probably first ascents. One, Janapampa (17,192 feet), the high point on the southeast end of the Taulliraju ridge, was a fairly difficult ice and rock climb. It was done o...


Club Activities AAJ
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club

Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. The principal activity of the P.A.T.C. during 1950 was the maintenance of trails, closed shelters and open lean-tos along sections of the Appalachian Trail in Maryland, Virginia and Pennsylvania. The broader interes...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Peaks above Chi Ghari Glacier and Shah Gol

Peaks above Chi Ghari Glacier and Shah Gol. The Austrian couple, Rudolf and Helga Lindner, climbed first above the Chi Ghari Glacier. On August 4 they climbed Rahozon Zom North (21,332 feet; peak 398 on the Wala map) and on the 6th Rahozon Zom Sou...


Book Reviews AAJ
High Altitude Physiology and Medicine

High Altitude Physiology and Medicine. Edited by Walter Brendel and Roman A. Zink. Springer Verlag, New York and Berlin, 1982. 316 pages. $65.High Altitude Physiology and Medicine is a collection of forty-nine papers presented at a symposium on hi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Peaks in Marscarello Group, Southern Patagonian Icecap

Peaks in Marscarello Group, Southern Patagonian Icecap. In early 1971 we were in the practically unexplored region between Lago Viedma and Lago Argentino east of The Seno Moyano, hoping to climb Cerro Risopatrón on the western edge of the Southern...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Whitehorn, North Face and North Ridge North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies

Whitehorn lies about eight miles southwest of Robson and can be easily seen from the Mount Robson trail; with binoculars you can see the “white horn” on the summit formed by a large snow cornice. Until two weeks prior to our arrival, no route on t...

| Published 1973 | Author Jocelyn C. Glidden


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Chaukhamba I (7138m), Attempts and Tragedy

Chaukhamba I (7138m), attempts and tragedy. In May a 14-member team from Calcutta led by Brijes Dey attempted the north face of this high mountain, approaching from Badrinath and Mana. They found the huge face very avalanche prone, with many large...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Shivling

Shivling. Our expedition was composed of Armando Della Valle, Mario Taller, Giordano Voltolini, Mauro Fioretta and me as leader. We got to Base Camp at Topovan on October 9. After acclimatization climbs on lower slopes, we all started on October 1...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Exploration West of Paine Group, 1993

Exploration West of Paine Group, 1993. On February 5, 1985, I made the first ascent of Cerro Zapata (1530 meters, 5020 feet), west of Lago Pingo. Fascinated by the view, I was determined to come back to this area. In December 1993, I returned with...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Bugaboo Group, Eastpost Spire, South Face

Eastpost Spire, South Face. Urban Golob and Slavko Rozic (Slovenia) climbed a new route, Mountain Fairy Tale (300 meters, 5.9 A3) on the south face of Eastpost Spire and dedicated it to the late Vanja Furlan.Miha Peternel, Planinska zveza Slovenije


Feature Article AAJ
East of the Himalaya, Part I: East Tibet Part I: East Tibet

EAST OF THE HIMALAYA "Overview" "Part I: East Tibet" "Part II: Three Rivers Gorges of The Hengduan Mountains" "Part III: West Sichuan Highland-Yangtze River Basin" East Tibet holds two principle mountain ranges, the Nyainqentangl...

| Published N/A | Author Tamotsu Nakamura