Our group, Dick Irvin, leader, Bill Isherwood, Barry Nash, Carl Smith and I, repeated the route pioneered by the Harvard Mountaineering Club in 1946 with the exception that we were flown in and out of Base Camp on the Tyndall Glacier instead of hi...
FALL ON WET ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION,NO HARD HATColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, RuperOn May 27, the victim (29) was leading Ruper when he fell. In his own words: “Water was seeping over the saddle, covering most of the last pitch. ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Athabasca, North FacePeter Haase (18) and John Leedale (22) were climbing the north face of Mt. Athabasca about 1100 hours on 30 June 1979. Leedale, who was leading, removed his cra...
Huacshash, Pariauccro Chico and Other Peaks, Southern Cordillera Huayhuash, 1979. Our expedition from Friuli was composed of Rodolfo Sinuello, Giuseppe Bertolo, Ivano Baracchini, Alfonso Masotti, Andrea Camerotto, Rolando Zaghis and me. Our object...
Scott Island, Ascent and Attempts. Three of us arrived in Clyde River on a Monday afternoon and waited two days for one member (the first to leave) to feel up to the trek. We left Clyde with two snowmobiles and komatiks. About ten hours later, we ...
Mount Robson. An ascent of Mount Robson by the Kain route was made on April 23 by J. Vin Hoeman, Dave P. Johnston, and Pete H. Robinson from Colorado State University. An intermediate camp was placed on the Dome, from which the summit was reached ...
Mt. Hooker, Loaded for Bear. I wasn’t sure if I’d get my Czech friend Jakub Gajda to accompany me on another climbing trip, and I wasn’t sure that I was ready for another adventure. But by June I was excited for another trip. It had to be short an...
Peaks above Sem Kharak Glacier. A team from the Mountaineers Club, Calcutta, began trekking from Malari on June 4 and established Base Camp at Sem Kharak on June 7. They stayed in the mountains for 14 days. Camp I (17,000 feet) was established on ...
Nevado Palomares and Marmolejo Norte. The first ascent of Nevado Palomares (19,423 feet) was made by a joint expedition of Brazilians of the Club Alpinista Carioca and Argentines of the Club Andinista Mendoza on February 25. (No names are availabl...
Hachindar Chhish Attempt. A Japanese expedition of seven, led by Hiroshi Midorokawa, failed to climb Hachindar Chhish (23,500 feet) and gave up after reaching a high point of 21,650 feet on May 19. Base Camp was placed west of the mountain on the ...
Kangchenjunga, Attempt. The main goal of an 11-member Slovak expedition was to climb Kangchenjunga by the 1981 Czechoslovak Route. The leader of this expedition was Jaryk Stejskal, who in the 1980s summitted Lhotse Shar, Dhaulaghiri and Cho Oyu. T...
“Thorington’s Tower.” The peak given this unofficial name in the Climbers Guide to the Canadian Rockies was climbed by Don Lashier and me on September 4. Approach was from the Athabaska Valley and Gong Lake. From a glacier just north of the peak t...
Eagle Beaks, East Face. On October 6, Hooman Aprin and I made the second climb of the south (first) peak of the Eagle Beaks, a craggy granitic formation on the Shuteye Peak ridge, high above the upper San Joachim River. Our route was a new one, vi...
Pundit Nehru. According to a Russian source quoted by Lo Scarpone, Georgian climbers made the first ascent of a 23,000-foot peak in the Tien Shan on September 9. In view of the boundary disputes between the Chinese Communists and India, it seems r...
Asgard, Southern Edge, Baffin Island. Fabio Leoni, Leonardi Luca, Fabrizio Defrancesco and I left Pangnirtung by motorsied for the Weasel Valley, which may be compared to the Yosemite but which has a different climate. We made Base Camp at Summit ...
Oregon, Mt. Hood. Late in the night of 16 July, Terry Tindall (19), Sue Davis (17), and John MacDaniels (18) arrived at Cloud Cap Inn. It was thought they had intended to climb Mt. Hood that night, but stormy conditions forced them to abandon that...
Lotus Flower Tower, Logan Mountains, Second Ascent. On August 12 a British Columbia-Yukon Air Service seaplane took Joël Coqueugniot, Patrick Cordier, Mlle Marie-Françoise Gay and me to Glacier Lake. The weather was gorgeous, but we learned that t...
Gaurishankar Attempt. After two weeks of bureaucracy in Kathmandu, Iñaki Alvarez, Koldo Tapia, Txema Cámara and I were finally able to take the bus to Charikot, arriving there on September 11. The approach was very difficult because of the monsoon...
Ganchempo, South Face. On Ganchempo (or Gang Chhenpo, 6387m), in north central Nepal, a team of six Swiss led by Karl Kobler and Christoph Jezler succeeded in making a new route to the summit. One member, Markus Baumann, and a Nepalese “Sherpa” na...
Mana. A 32-man team of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police was led by Company Commander Harbhajan Singh. They left Joshimath on April 15, but due to a road block eleven kilometers short of Malari, had to trek 78 kilometers to Base Camp; snow had destro...