FALL ON SNOW, BELAY FAILURE, NO HARD HATSOregon, Mount HoodAt 0230 on June 14, 1983, a group of climbers left their base camp at 2590 meters on the Eliot Glacier and began their ascent of Mount Hood via the Eliot Glacier Headwall. The party consis...
Kongur-tebe-tagh, Pamirs. The second ascent of this 24,920-foot peak, which lies in the eastern Pamirs in Sinkiang, was made by a group of Chinese and Tibetan women. On June 13 the Tibetans Sheirab and Phundob reached the summit, which had first b...
Killabuk, Solo, Weasel Valley, Baffin Island. Italian climber Franco Perlotto made a solo ascent of the east face of Killabuk, a route first climbed by Doug Scott, Dennis Hennek and three others in 1971. The peak lies near the head of the Weasel V...
California, Death Valley National Monument, Telescope Peak. On 21 December, Richard Slates (34), a member of a search party for the body of Grant Trigg arrived by one-passenger helicopter on a ridge of Telescope Peak and elected to deviate from th...
Lupghar Sar West. Our Tegernsee expedition was made up of Markus Fisser, Sepp Gloggner, Walter Janner, Alfred Müller, Sepp Öckler, Otto Parzhuber, Georg Wagner and me as leader. After an overland drive from Germany for six of the eight of us to Gi...
Mount Stephen Leacock, St. Elias Mountains. Martyn Williams, Jim Boyde and I devoted the Easter weekend from April 9 to 15 to the ascent of Mount Stephen Leacock (60° 38' N, 138° 43' W; 10,200 feet). Named after the renowned Canadian author, humor...
Chamonix. In connection with the celebrations attending the visit of British royalty to France, M. Paul Payot, at the Ruskin Stone, read a paper on “The Englishman at Chamonix,” and exhibited in the window of the Pâtisserie des Alpes various appro...
FALLING ROCK, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Uto PeakAt 1700 on July 28, 1987, a party of six cadcts (ages 15-17) and two guides were descending the northwest ridge of Uto Peak. The area is used regularly by cadets for t...
Canadian Rockies: Swiss Guides’ Tariff for Climbing.Mt. Victoria2 days$40.00Mt. Lefroy2 days40.00Mt. Hungabee14 hrs.40.00Cathedral Mountain12 hrs.30.00Mt. Biddle13 hrs.30.00Mt. Aberdeen13 hrs.30.00Mitre Peak9 hrs.30.00Mt. Temple9 hrs.20.00Mt. Hube...
Cho Oyu Tragedy. The expedition to Cho Oyu which I led was composed of three Swiss: Pierre-Alain Steiner, Christian Dupré and me. After having arrived on October 8 at Base Camp at 5300 meters near the Nangpa La, we climbed to 6300 meters for accli...
Chhukung Ri, South Summit. Yoshio Morikubo led an expedition that climbed Chhukung Ri, reaching the South Summit (5550m) on August 16-17. Further details are lacking.
Kamet and Abi Gamin, 1987. Our expedition was made up of Dr. S.C. Mate, P.D. Nirgudkar, V.V. Kunte, S.G. Katti, Heera Lohia, Milind Pote, Anil Chav an, Mrs. S.S. Katti, Miss Nandini Lohia, Dr. D.S. Rokade, Vinayak Mulik, Vijay Jadhav and me as lea...
Nicola II Chain, Wakhan. An expedition of the Rome section of the Club Alpino Italiano made three first ascents in the Nicola II chain in the Wakhan. The leader was Carlo Alberto Pinelli, accompanied by Dr. Franco Cravino, Maurizio Speziale, Bruno...
Kangchenjunga. A British group in April and May visited the Nepalese side of Kangchenjunga to explore the climbing possibilities. Political restrictions increased the difficulties of the approach, which was made from the Singalila Ridge into Nepal...
Santa Rosa, Cordillera Raura. Tom Frost, Charles Grossbeck and I spent June in Peru preparing for a climbing-filming expedition to the Cordillera Raura. The National Geographic Society, in conjunction with the Colorado Outward Bound School, was pl...
Paine Chico, West Face and Torre Norte del Paine, North Summit, West Face. It had stormed for days and when it dawned fine on February 19, South African Philip Lloyd and I slumbered late. Not until nine A.M. did we awake with shock and horror and ...
Mount Tsar, East Ridge, Canadian Rockies. Steve Sheriff and I climbed this classic ice, snow and rock ridge on August 3 and 4. Once one of the most remote peaks in the Canadian Rockies, Tsar is now easily accessible via logging roads which follow ...
FALL OR SLIP ON ICE, AVALANCHE AND/OR INADEQUATE RELAY, NOHARD HATWashington, Dragontail PeakOn January 27, 1991, two well known and experienced Seattle climbers, Hope Barnes (33) and Kathy Phibbs (33), began a climb of Dragontail Peak via Triple ...
Qi Lian, Gansu, Qinghai. Our expedition was composed of Tsukasa Ogai, Kazuo Ishihara, Sakutaro Kono, Yu Sato, Michio Takahashi, Tomohiro Kameoka, Nobuhiko Muto, Koichi Kinoshita, Masao Takahashi, Shinji Yasuda, Nobuo Momai, Masakatsu Horie, Nobuyo...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (2)—Fred Ford (25), John Austin (26) and Robert Bartholomew (20) spent the night of June 27 in high camp in the lower saddle between the Grand and Middle Teton. In the morning of the 28th day they set out to clim...