Cashmere Crags, The Blockhouse and The Rhombic. From a high camp on Mole Ridge near The Hook, on September 1 A1 Errington and I climbed a new route up The Blockhouse via its north ridge. The route began at the start of the standard northwest face ...
Kokodag (a.k.a. Kokodak) is the summit on the ridge extending west from Kon-gur and is located between Kongur Tube (7,530m on Chinese maps, 7,546m on Russian) and Aklangam (6,978m on Chinese maps, 7,004m on Russian). Chinese maps show its altitude...
Bill Williams Mountain, Bill Williams Monument. This remnant of a volcanic dike is just visible above the right shoulder of Bill Williams Mountain when viewed from Interstate 40 between Ash Fork and Williams. The summit was first reached by Mark P...
New York Section. In February 2008 we launched an important new, Web-enhanced initiative. In conjunction with our partners, the Rubin Museum and our local PBS TV station, we videotaped and broadcast a symposium on contemporary climbing on Everest....
Appalachian Mountain Club. Growth in all of the work of the A.M.C. has been stressed in past reports. 1964 was no exception: membership reached 9,500; two new first editions were published in one year — Alpine Flowers of New England and the A.M.C....
Symmetry Crag #1, Southeast Ridge. Fred Beckey and John Hudson climbed this new route from Cascade Canyon on September 4. The entire south face of this crag is divided horizontally by two prominent tree ledges. To reach the first, easy but steep r...
Rasac, West Face, Middle Buttress. The Frenchman Antoine Baroud and Hubert Odier and I climbed the west face of Rasac from July 17 to 19. We placed a high camp in the col between Rasac Oeste and Tsacra Chico. There are three buttresses on the face...
Ship’s Prow, Solo Ascent. From April 23-June 3, Mike Libecki made the first ascent of the north face of the overhanging Ship’s Prow via The Hinayana (VI 5.8 A3+, 600m). An account of his solitary adventure can be found earlier in this journal.
Sarapo, Southwest Face. In Cajatambo an Italian expedition, led by Casimiro Ferrari, met a Swiss one returning from having unsuccessfully tried the southwest face of Sarapo. In two days, on August 4, the Italians were in Base Camp. After several d...
Monashee and Selkirk Mountains. A six-man field party of the Geological Survey of Canada under my leadership was active in the Monashee and northern Selkirk mountains. Geological mapping on a scale of 1” to 4 miles was completed in the Big Bend ar...
Squaretop, East Face, The Miscreant Line and The Conveyor Belt. Two routes were established in August 2000 by Tod Anderson, Skyler Crane, James Donnell, and Ernest Moskovics on the left side of the east face of Squaretop. The lines, climbed by dif...
Peak above Chaturangi Glacier. Ten climbers, three scientists (including Geologist Dr. Dhruvajoyti Mukherjee and Physiologist Dr. Amitava Sen) and six Sherpas from the Gangotri Glacier Exploration Committee, Calcutta, left on August 31 to try Sato...
Nevado de Chañi. An expedition of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires made a new route on the Nevado de Chañi (19,882 feet) in northern Argentina. Cesarino Fava, Augusto Mengelle and Felipe Frasson climbed the central spur of the north face in early Oc...
Lhotse Shar. The east peak of Lhotse, Lhotse Shar (27,504 feet) was climbed by an Austrian expedition from the Tirol led by Siegfried Aeberli. Base Camp was at 17,150 feet on the western lateral moraine of the Lhotse Glacier. They approached the s...
Chumik Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Atsuo Tokushima attempted Chumik (22,160 feet) from the Chumik Glacier, hoping to reach a col on the northeast ridge. After establishing Camp II at 18,375 feet, they abandoned the attempt on July 28 bec...
Kangchenjunga, North Face. Kangchenjunga, located in remote eastern Nepal, lies on the border with India’s autonomous state of Sikkim and is the world’s third highest peak at 8586 meters, after Everest and K2. On Kangchenjunga, six expeditions, re...
Dernières Victoires du Cervin, by Giuseppe Mazotti. Translated into French by Commandant Émile Gaillard. 8 vo., pp. 202, with 32 illustrations from photographs. Neuchatel: Attinger, 1934. Price Fr. 3.A mountaineering friend once remarked to me tha...
Snowdome, Northeast Buttress. On August 18 and 19 Don Vockeroth and I made the first ascent of this buttress, which is the one visible from the highway looking up Dome Glacier. The climb on mostly rotten rock required one and a half days. In addit...
Zion National Park. The classic route, Space Shot, had its first solo ascent in October by Rich Strang, an inspired performance especially in light of its being his first desert wall! Some climbers fail to note the critical importance of hammerles...
Mount Thor, South Face. An interesting new route on the south face, to the east of existing routes, was done May 7 by William L. Putnam, Tom Cosgrove, and me. The route climbs a series of jam-cracks, with one aid pitch, on the left side of a promi...