An expedition from the Czech Republic led by Karel Plechac attempted this 7,038m peak to the northwest of Manaslu. The first and only recorded ascent of the mountain took place in October 1994 when a large Japanese-Nepalese expedition (joint climb...
K7 Attempt. Italians F. Arneodo, M. Bozzolan, D. Longata, S. Rossi and D. Sacchetti attempted to climb K7 (6935 meters, 22,753 feet) via a new route, the southwest spur, from the Charakusa Glacier. Bad weather kept them from getting higher than 47...
Success on Mt. Vancouver. On 5 July 1949 four climbers reached the summit of Mt. Vancouver (15,720 ft.), which had been the highest unclimbed peak in North America. The party consisted of Noel Odell, William R. Hainsworth, Robert S. McCarter and A...
Ama Dablam, Tawoche and Cholatse. An expedition of 11 South Koreans led by Son Moon-Kyu had three objectives. On September 10, Kim Young- Jeoung and Park Byoung-Sun climbed to the top of Ama Dablam by the normal southwest ridge. On September 9, Li...
In July and August, 1997, Joanne Jeske and I traveled widely throughout Kham, the old eastern province of Tibet. With the exception of Minya Konka and vicinity, this region has largely been neglected by climbers, despite the fact that it is one of...
Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows. Third Edition. Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO, 1992. 180 pages, topos and black-and-white photos. $18.00.If Yosemite Valley is the St. Peter’s of rock climbing, Tuolumne Meadows mus...
BAD WEATHER, EXPOSURE Washington, Mt. RainierOn September 8, Shirli Voight (30) of Denver and Guillermo Mendoza (28) of Saltillo, Coahuila, Mexico, were found buried in the snow about 13,300 feet near Mount Rainier National Park’s Disappointment C...
Tuolumne Meadows, 1983. This area received its first official guidebook in 1983, written by local climbing guides Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein. Here are some routes done since the publication of the guide. Bastard from the Bush (5.11) climbs thr...
Gurja Himal, First Spanish Ascent. From August 25 until October 4 the first Spanish expedition to Gurja Himal (7193 m) in the Dhaulagiri region of Nepal took place. The group (Pedro Nicolás, Leader, and Jose L. Fernández, Club Peñalara de Madrid; ...
Stuart Range. In February, Kit Lewis and Jim Nelson made the first winter ascent of their Girth Pillar route. Certainly the hardest winter climb done in the range, the pair climbed for four days through atrocious conditions. In July, Peter Croft c...
Lone Pine Peak, Pathways Through to Space. V 5.10 Al. First ascent August 1, by Stephen Quale and Scotty Nelson. This route starts about 100' left of the huge inside corner on the south face. Climb a right-facing corner (marked by a prominent roof...
FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlaska, The Rooster CombEric Winkleman (25) and Alex Lowe (23) were flown into the East Fork of the Ruth Glacier with the Alice and the Agressors team on April 26, 1982.On May 5, early in the morning, W...
Cumberland Peninsula, Ski Mountaineering Expedition. The objective of our Baffin Island ski mountaineering expedition was to make a self-sufficient 20-day journey in the Cumberland Peninsula mountains, climbing suitable peaks en route with standar...
Ejnar Mikkelsens Fjeld, Various Activity and Tragedy. A British group led by Nigel Edwards was flown into the east branch of the Kronborg Gletscher at ca. 68° 55' N, 28° 25' W. During their stay, which was marred by periods of very poor weather, t...
Kahiltna Peaks, traverse. Japanese climbers Tatsuro Yamada and Yuto Inoue traversed the Kahiltna Peaks from west to east, then continued high on the Cassin Ridge in attempting a massive enchainment. Although specifics will never be known, clues fr...
Makalu Winter Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Keizo Nakano, Akitsugu Nishimura, Toyuru Akimoto, Osamu Nagashima, Hiroshi Takagi, Michiko Sonoda and me as leader. We established Base Camp on November 22 at 4800 meters at the end of the Barun...
Argentine Patagonia, Various Activity. Charlie Fowler (U.S.) was in the area from late November until mid-February. With various partners, he climbed the following. Right French Couloir (TD-5.9 60° ice mixed, 400m) on Guillaumet, December 5, 1998,...
Everest Attempt. Our expedition was composed of 13 Spaniards and two Italians. We set up Base Camp on April 3. Camps I, II, III and IV were established at 5950, 6400, 7400 and 7900 meters on April 5, 8, 26 and May 19. We were able to set up the fi...
Peter Irving’s Journals, edited by Leonard B. Beach, Theodore Hornberger and Wyllis E. Wright. 8vo., 128 pages. New York: New York Public Library, 1943. Price $2.00.Edited from manuscripts in the Sterling Memorial Library, Yale University, the Mir...
Cachi, north face. Cachi is a sacred 6,380m mountain in Salta, Argentina. Nicolás Pantaleón and Nicolás Yannito, both from Salta, ascended the virgin north face in November. They began on November 8, and continued marching until switching to the r...