Club Activities AAJ
Alpenbock Climbing Club

Alpenbock Climbing Club. In January the club sponsored Barry Corbet’s colored slide showing “Assault on Everest.” A turnout of 350 people attended this outstanding program, and proceeds from it were given to the Mount Everest Foundation to help de...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum I, Ascent and Ski Descent

Gasherbrum I, Ascent and Ski Descent. The aim of the expedition was to ski from the summit of Gasherbrum I down the north face of the mountain. Members of the expedition were Janez Golob (leader), Marko Car, Simon Copi, Urban Golob, and Matic Jost...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Table Mountain, East Face, South Buttress

Table Mountain, East Face, South Buttress. This buttress, one of three prominent on the east side of the flat-topped Table Mountain at the head of the south fork of Cascade Canyon, was attempted on September 8, 1960, by Kenneth Weeks and M. E. Hor...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Huayhuash, Rasac Este and Yerupajá Sur

Rasac Este and Yerupajá Sur. My companion, Bas Grenigt, had had a serious operation because of a bicycle accident just before our departure and had trouble keeping going at high altitude. On June 29 we did climb together Rasac Este by its southeas...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Stewart Valley, The Citadel, The Endless Day

The Citadel, The Endless Day. Mike “Twid” Turner, Louise Thomas, Jerry Gore and Shaun Hutson made the first ascent of “The Citadel” in Stewart Valley via their 900-meter route, The Endless Day. (The climbers note that the peak may already have an ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhaush, Sarapo, Northwest Face

Sarapo, Northwest Face. A few brief moments under the west face of Siulá convinced Tom Sisson and me that we did not want to play Russian Roulette with our lives on that face. The snow-and-ice northwest face of Sarapo, a short way up the glacier, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Northern Selkirks

Selkirks. While doing geology, Hamish Mutch and I climbed most of the peaks in the Fang Creek, Downie Lake, Purity Range and Van Horne Névé areas. Innovations included a new route on Mount Wheeler via the longest ridge from Thor Glacier; new route...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, South Fork of Shoshone River, South Fork Ice Routes

South Fork Ice Routes. In April 1999, while flying over the South Fork near Cody, I discovered a new arena of ice. A day later we began the epic approach, six miles into the Shoshone Wilderness. We named the first and largest amphitheater Garden o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Banderpunch, Black Peak

Banderpunch, Black Peak. Hari Dang led his Doon schoolboys to the Black Peak (20,956 feet) of the Banderpunch group. The peak was climbed on June 14 by Goggi Aggarwala and Sherpa Nima. (First ascent by J.M.T. Gibson and two Sherpas on June 7, 1955...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Aconcagua, South Face

Aconcagua, South Face. As we go to press, news reaches us of two new ascents on the south face of Aconcagua, previously climbed only by the French expedition of 1954. An Argentine group followed the French route, setting to work on January 5, 1966...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mount Everest Ski Expedition

Mount Everest Ski Expedition. There were two Japanese expeditions at the same time on Mount Everest. The ski group were not interested in any attempt on the summit but was rather a publicity stunt for the exposition in Osaka. They lost six Sherpas...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Haramosh, West Ridge

Haramosh, West Ridge. It is reported in Iwa To Yuki of October, 1978 that a five-man Japanese expedition led by Kenji Shimakata successfully climbed this new route on Haramosh (24,309 feet). Sumiya Isono, Ryo Nishikori and the leader Shimakata got...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Gimmegela, Third Ascent

Gimmegela, Third Ascent. It was reported that a 14-man British Services expedition made the third ascent of Gimmegela (7350m) via the southwest ridge. The team (Pat Parsons, leader, Rob Magowan, Tug Wilson, Huan Davies, Nigel Lane Neil Peacock, Bo...


Book Reviews AAJ
Guide to the John Muir Trail and the High Sierra Region

Guide to the John Muir Trail and the High Sierra Region, by Walter A. Starr, Jr. xiii + 145 pages, with frontispiece and map. San Francisco: The Sierra Club, 1934.This is the first comprehensive guide to the High Sierra trails to be published. One...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Peaks above Maligne Lake

Peaks above Maligne Lake. Sixty-two members of the Iowa Mountaineers attended a summer camp in the Maligne Lake area. Base Camp was at the south end of the lake at the mouth of Coronet Creek. Eleven peaks were ascended; the following new routes we...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Notch Peak, North Face United States, Utah

Notch Peak is 60 miles west of Delta, Utah, at the south end of the House Range. The 2,500-foot-high limestone north face was first climbed by Thomas Koch and Peter Diener Jr. in June. The route ascended right of center to a prominent chimney, mos...

| Published 1986


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Junction Peak, North Buttress

Junction Peak, North Buttress. A late winter attempt on the north buttress of Junction Peak by John Rupley and me was frustrated by stormy conditions, although the long trek via Kearsarge Pass brought us to the foot of serious climbing. The buttre...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, New York, Shawangunks

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDNew York, ShawangunksA boy (9) was climbing on the practice rocks when he fell four to five meters to the ground, dislocating his elbow and shoulder. (Source: Brad Snyder)(Editor’s Note: This is the youngest climber r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Traunstein Hindu Kush Expedition

Traunstein Hindu Kush Expedition. A group of Germans from Traunstein, Karl Brenner, Dietrich von Dobeneck, Otto Huber, Fritz Wagnerberger and Karl Winkler, traveled in late August with a pack train for five days from Jurm in Badakhshan through the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Thor, West Face Solo

Thor, West Face Solo. Japanese Yasushi Yamanoi set up camp at the foot of the west face of Mount Thor on May 22 but could not begin his solo attempt on the route until June 20 because of bad weather. He climbed for the next eight days. After compl...