STRANDED, INADEQUATE FOOD AND EQUIPMENT, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyJeff Hall (29) and Dick Jackson (35) were members of the “Jeff and Dick” expedition. They were flown in to the Southeast Fork of Kahiltna on May 24, 1985. On May 26 they began c...
RAPPEL FAILURE-ACCIDENTAL MANUAL DISENGAGEMENT OF ASCENT DEVICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE, NO HARD HATArizona, Phoenix, SaguaroOn April 29, I (Jeff Gertsch, 26) was out in the middle of the desert at my climbing spot alone, ascending a...
K2, Northwest Ridge Attempt. Our joint Polish-Mexican expedition was composed of Lucio Cárdenas, Manuel Casanueva, Antonio Cortés, Hugo Delgado, Enrique Miranda and Eduardo Mosqueda, Mexicans, and Roman Bebak, Dr. Grzegorz Benke, Eugeniusz Chrobak...
Winter Ascent of the Grand Teton. Another winter ascent of the Grand Teton has been reported.* J. D. Lewis made the climb early in March 1949 with his brother Ted and Paul Petzoldt. The ascent was on skis to below the lower saddle and thence on fo...
The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee, chaired by Candy Morgan, set some ambitious goals and met them well: to continue with improvement in new Leadership Development and Leadership Update programs; to improve curriculum documentation for climbing e...
8000 Meters and MoreWorking out the moves on the routes of the new millenniumby Alexander Huber, GermanyAs we climb into the next millennium, we might ask ourselves, where is our sport going? The end of the 20th century gives us a welcome opportun...
Agdlerussakasit (1,750m), east face, new route on east face; The Butler (900m) and Mark (900m), first ascents. Overlooking Torssukatak Sound the seaward face of Agdlerussakasit, which is possibly one of the largest sea cliffs in the world, leads t...
Pik Lenin, Pik Kommunizma and. Other Peaks on Skis, Pamir Mountains. Our best skier of the extreme, Pavol Rajtar, made several first ski descents in the Pamir Mountains. After several acclimatization climbs, on July 20 he climbed Pik Shatayeva (57...
Starlight Peak, West Buttress. From the Palisade Basin, one can see imme diately left (north) of the prominent west-facing wall on the North Palisade a large triangular buttress. The top of the buttress joins a narrow ridge which leads to the summ...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The Club did not hold its annual summer climbing camp as such in 1967, but was the prime organizer of the Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition, in celebration of Canada’s Centenary, which in the end combined the Club’s sum...
Chobutse, Rolwaling Valley. The members of our expedition were Michaela Wegert, Gustav and Klaus Harder, Peter Vogler and I as leader. On April 8 we finally ascended the upper Rolwaling Khola from Beding to the high alpine meadow, Nangaon, and som...
Cordillera Vilcabamba, various ascents. In 2004 Canadians Conny Amelunxen and Neil Maedel visited the eastern end of the Pumasillo group, climbing the small peaks, north of Totora, that form the end of the long curving ridge running generally east...
Annapurna II Attempt. On April 2 a three-man Japanese expedition led by Kunihiko Kondo reached a high point of 6000 meters on a new route on Annapurna II’s south face. Kondo Masatoshi Yoshino and Toshiro Yamada deposited supplies there and returne...
Stonehouse Buttress, Southeast Face. The Milky Way Chimney, a new route on Stonehouse Buttress, was done on April 29 and 30 by Jack Roberts, Hooman Aprin, and me. The nine-pitch route duplicates a previously established route on the southeast face...
TOBIN SORENSON 1955-1980On the mountain He will destroy the covering that is cast over all peoples, the veil that is spread over all nations. He will swallow up death forever, and the Lord God will wipe away tears from all faces.Isaiah 25:07Tobin ...
OLIVER PERRY-SMITH1884-1969Our Honorary Member, Oliver Perry-Smith, died quickly and peacefully at his son’s home in Denver, Colorado on May 13. He was originally a Philadelphian, of distinguished ancestry, but from 1902 until the outbreak of Worl...
Chichicapac, north ridge; Mamacapac, first ascent; Cornice, south ridge. Mike Cocker, Jonathan Preston, and I arrived in Peru on June 14 and spent a week acclimatizing and buying essentials before arriving at base camp (a four-hour walk with donke...
Bandarpunch Group. An Indian expedition was composed of Dr. S.B.L. Sharma, Ram Chander Bhardwaj, Ashok Kumar Gupta, Chandra Sekhar, Amarjit Singh, Baljit Singh and Sudhir Upadhyay. All reached the top of Kala Nag (6387 meters, 20,956 feet) in mid ...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INCOMPATIBLE PARTNERS–POOR COMMUNICATIONWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeBruce Penn (43) and A1 Hancock (44) departed White River to climb Liberty Ridge on June 13. It took them three days to reach the base. O...
Climbing in the Bolivian Andes, 1939Joseph P. PREMFirst Ascent of the Cerro de Santa Vela Cruz, ca. 5600 m. (18,372 ft.)THE little Santa Vela Cruz Group lies directly S. of the Quimza Cruz Range, being separated from the same by the Tres Cruces Pa...