Shipton Spire, Women and Chalk, second ascent and first to summit; Trango Tower, Eternal Flame, not to summit; Trango II, second known ascent; Little Shipton, first ascent. In mid-July a five-man expedition from the Austrian Tyrol, comprising Matt...
GLENN EXUM1911-2000Nothing defined Glenn Exum as enduringly as the harmonies that filled his life. They touched his passion as mountain climber and guide, his profession as music man, his love as husband and father, and his witness to his values o...
FenrisNotes from a dream fulfilled in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica.Mike LibeckiDreams? Goals? Fantasies? These words may sound attractive but they mean absolutely nothing. Zilch. Nada. Zero. At least not without their most important ingredient: abs...
At the start of spring the famous Spanish mountaineer, 41-year-old Ignacio Ochoa de Olza, known to the climbing world as Iñaki Ochoa, had only Annapurna I and Kangchenjunga left in his campaign to reach the summits of all the 8,000m peaks. He came...
Mazamas. The Mazamas found the weather very unkind in 1959. Not for many years have so many climbs been stormed off. Rainier, Whitehorse, Lincoln, Lacrosse, Adams, Diamond Peak, Unicorn Peak, and several climbs on nearby Mount Hood were all blanke...
Yosemite Valley, Various Ascents. For the third year in a row, action on the Salathé Wall led the headlines. This time, it was Yuji Hirayama (Japan) who stole the show with attempts to on sight the entire route. Training for weeks in Yosemite, Hir...
STRANDED—UNABLE TO FIND DESCENT ROUTE California, Yosemite Valley, Glacier Point TerraceOn October 30, 1994, John Dunn (22) and Dan Cappellini (25), both of Ft. Collins, CO, climbed to the Oasis on Glacier Point via Cold Fusion, Point Beyond, and ...
W.H. Murray: Evidence of Things Not Seen: A Mountaineer's Tale. W.H. Murray. Foreword by Hamish MacInnes. London: Baton Wicks, 2002.352 pages, hardcover. £ 20.00.In 1947, W.H. Murray created an instant classic with his Mountaineering in Scotland. ...
Preface The world has gone crazy for records of all kinds. For that reason I want to say right away that we do not make our ascents for the sake of setting records. It’s simply the case that when you undertake some pursuit for a long time, yo...
Summary of Climbing in the St. Elias Mountains. Climbing activity in the St. Elias Mountains in 1977 was double that of the year before; a total of 98 climbers from 17 expeditions spent nearly 1900 man-days in the Icefield Ranges. The Arctic Insti...
In autumn Urban Golob, Boris Lorencic, Karel Zavrsnik, and I visited the mountains at the head of the Milam Glacier, a relatively little- visited area. After the border closure with China in the 1960s, only Indians were allowed here for many yea...
Lixian County, Bipeng Valley, Half Ridge Peak (Banji Feng) (5,430m), north face, first ascent. On May 4 our team made the first successful ascent of Half Ridge Peak (Lat: 31° 14' 41.1", Long: 102° 55' 39") via the north face. This is a semi-techni...
Gorge PlayThree first ascents in the Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier.Tatsuro YamadaIn March 2007, Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato, and I made a one-day ascent of a long, classic alpine route on Mt. Hotaka in Japan’s Northern Alps, as preparation fo...
Mount Moran, No Escape Buttress. A new ascent (III, F9), which lies to the right (east) of the original 1962 route, was climbed on August 6, 1977 by Mike Munger, Jim Donini, and Steve Wunsch. This climb, No Survivors Route, has six difficult leads...
Squamish Chief, via “Angel’s Crest”. Hank Mather, Les MacDonald and I made the third major and complete route on the Squamish Chief in a two-day push in June. The “Angel’s Crest”, as we called this major buttress on the north face, involves some 1...
Attempt on Mount St. Elias. Our plans for climbing Mount St. Elias went all right up to a certain point, but then things came unglued. We intended to walk in from the sea to a drop-site under the Haydon ridge and proceed up the route used by the M...
The Alaska Range E. of the Richardson Highway was explored during the summer of 1950 by Austin Post and Gottfried Ehrenburg, of Spokane, Don MacAskill (Sierra Club) and the writer. Base camp was set up at the end of the Castner Glacier, near the R...
Thor Peak, Rainbow Bridge. Allan Pietrasanta and I climbed this route in May. It starts in a long, slender, right-facing book a short distance right of the Principal Dihedral Route. Two pitches lead to a point just below the top of the book where ...
If someone told you he had just run a 10-minute mile you would shrug your shoulders and say “so what.” If someone said he had just run a three-minute mile you would be amazed and skeptical, and a reasonable response would be to ask for evidence. M...
Wind River HolidayBeckett HoworthWe had discovered a new game, guessing where the road would go next. It could be seen only about a hundred yards ahead. It really should have been called an automobile trail instead of a road. Fortunately the stat...