Adventures of an Alpine Guide, by Christian Klucker, translated by E. and P. Gaisberg ; edited, with additional chapters, by H. E. G. Tyndale, 8 vo., xiii + 329 pages, with sixteen illustrations, map and index. John Murray, London, England, 1932. ...
Jirishanca Chico, southeast face, Sweet Child of Mine. After we returned from the southeast face of Jirishanca Grande, realizing that we wouldn't have a chance to try again, I was nevertheless full of energy. The weather was still sunny, so I prop...
The Grace of Forgetting, by Geoffrey Winthrop Young. 352 pages, with 29 photographs and 5 line illustrations, including 2 maps by Leo Vernon. London: Country Life, 1953. Price, 21/—.Geoffrey Winthrop Young’s latest book is made up of memories—all ...
New Hampshire: Mt. Washington. On 15 October 1950 three young men who had just entered Harvard, J. M. Forbes, Harry Francis and John Humphreys, started up the Pinnacle of Huntinton Ravine. Forbes, having climbed it the year before, was leading. Th...
The biggest news of the 2010–11 season, not in the individual reports below, was the “fair-means” attempt to climb the Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre (a.k.a. Compressor Route) by Canadians Chris Geisler and Jason Kruk. They had hoped to climb th...
FALL ON ROCK, IMPROPER HARNESS TIE-IN California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn March 25, 1988, Paul Miller (24) fell eight meters while climbing Gap Rock on a route called ‘"Visual Nightmare” (5.10A). His rope came untied from his harness. Subj...
Sugarloaf Dome, Southwest Face. This face was climbed in June by Fred Beckey and me. Sugarloaf is the prominent formation across the Merced River from Bonnell Point in Little Yosemite Valley. Leave the trail at a point where you walk next to a cas...
EDWARD V. HUNTINGTON 1874-1952Professor Huntington had been a member of the Club since 1932. He had climbed moderately in the Alps, Canadian Rockies, and Selkirks for about thirty years. In the years from 1924 on he and his wife and friends often ...
Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, traverse. I came to Patagonia this year with the primary goal of climbing Torre Egger. After a month of bad weather, at the beginning of February Stefan Siegrist and I made our first attempt. We started...
Monte Rosa, Alps. In the 1955 American Alpine Journal (pages 126 to 132) I have read the article by Guy M. Everett, “A Fight for Life on Monte Rosa.” As he says, he was bound for the “Cresta Rey” of the Dufourspitze. He had “read the scanty detail...
Marmolata, Bugaboos. New Route on South Face. Gilbert Fryklund and I left Boulder Camp early on August 10 with the intention of repeating John Turner’s route (1959) on the south face of Marmolata. (See A.A.J., 1960, 12:1, p. 135.) After looking at...
CEREBRAL EDEMA, PARTY SEPARATED, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 27, 1990, a three member Sophia University expedition flew onto the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier of Mount McKinley to climb the West Buttress. The three inexperien...
Note on the Various Climbing Championships of the C.I.S. The Russian Mountaineering Federation was established in 1982. Preceding and superseding that, the Soviet Mountaineering Federation was the governing body for climbing in the times of the U....
FALSE ALARMArizona, Grand CanyonOn the evening of September 23rd, rangers began a search for hikers who repeatedly activated their rented SPOT satellite-tracking device. The GEOS Emergency Response Center in Houston reported that someone in the gr...
Haramosh. The aim of the Oxford University South Karakoram Expedition was to explore and survey the approaches to Haramosh (24,270 feet). There had been no previous expeditions to this mountain. The party consisted of Tony Streather (leader), of t...
Climbing RopesHelmut F. Microys, Ph.D.Introduction:The following article is not quite the final report of the Rope Deterioration Study undertaken in 974 by the American Alpine Club. Part of the statistical data is still missing. This was done in c...
Kun. Three Italian expeditions attempted to climb Kun in 1989. Only the one led by Massimo Pagani succeeded. Those under the leadership of Giuseppe Enzio and Arturo Bergamaschi (see below) did not get to the summit. French led by F. Rebuffet did g...
Gongga Shan Attempt. Our members were Masayoshi Matsudate, Kiyuharu Ito, Masaharu Moriya, Yasuhiko Matsuta, Yutaka Nakagawa, Kosuke Igawa, Masaki Kawachi, Masaki Hayashi, Shinji Chiba, Seiji Takami, Suguru Kawakami and I as leader. We established ...
BERNARD PIERRE 1920-1997Bernard Pierre was bom in Chelles, France, became a doctor of law and a graduate of the School of Political Science, and became head of the family textile business. From his earliest years, he devoted his leisure time to mo...
There was considerable activity in the Caucausus this past summer, some four expeditions being in the field, two Austrian, one German, and a Polish group.Expedition of the Austrian Alpine Club. This was the largest of the four groups and besides P...