What Can Belong to Patagonia ClimbingSilvia Metzeltin Buscaini, Club Andino Italiano*PATAGONIAN WINTER SKI-MOUNTAINEERING has its difficulties and its charms. Now winter is ending and the first spring storms are wafting into the lonely valleys. We...
Utah Desert Climbing. River Road Area: This is a local name for the section of State Highway 128 that follows the Colorado River east from US 191 at the Colorado River Bridge in Moab. Rick’s Rotten Ramp. Rick Norman, Mike Meyer, Brett Maurer and C...
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Banff National Park, Cascade MountainOn August 30, N.P. (16), C.B. (18) and J.P. (17) left Calgary in the afternoon and drove to Banff to the base of Cascade Mountain. The three left their vehicle and started scr...
Shivling, South Buttress. From September 27 to October 18 Karl Kosa, Ernst Machacek, Robert Glatter, Michael Fasan, Peter Hanzlik and I as leader were on the south buttress of Shivling. We got to the top of the buttress but could not reach the sum...
Central Rockies Section. For the third consecutive year, the Section sponsored and helped fund the Waterfall Ice Roundup in Cody, Wyoming, on February 18-20. Some 50-60 climbers from five states traveled to Cody to attend this event, which is also...
GENE MASON1928-1993Gene Mason loved life, never seemed to stop finding it exciting. The last letter I had from him was from Africa, and it began with the phrase “I've taken my new heart to Africa.” It was his last trip there. He was working again ...
Central Rockies Section. The year started out with a bang in January, when the Central Rockies Section sponsored the 13th Annual Ouray Ice Festival. We provided a station and the CRS Tent, a volunteer staff, and swag. Our members Ryan McCombs, Chr...
Mazamas. The year began with the annual climbing school in April, when more than 400 basic-mountaineering students enrolled in the lectures and field trips under Jack Grauer’s direction. The Climbing Committee’s 1958 climbing schedule included abo...
Icefields. Thomas Wharton, Washington Square Press, 1996. Paper. $12.00Icefields is a novel of subtle and singular beauty. The author, Thomas Wharton, takes us along on an actual 1898 Columbia Icefields outing with Norman Collie and Edward Byrne, ...
The Second American Ascent of Mont Blanc(Dr. Talbot—1854)Dr. Israel Tisdale Talbot, who made the second complete American ascent of Mont Blanc, was born at Sharon, Mass., in 1829, and died at Boston in 1899. Graduating from Homeopathic Medical Col...
RAPPEL ERROR–NO BACK-UP ON RAPPEL, FALL ON ROCK, BEING IN A HURRYWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton, Owen-SpaldingOn July 18, Ryan Sasser (27) and I, Holly Beck (26), got a late start out of our Moraine Camp on the Grand Teton due to ...
Magic Islands of LofotenEd WebsterIT TOOK NEARLY FOUR HOURS for the ferry boat to cross the cold sea from Bodø on the Norwegian mainland to Moskensøy, southernmost of the Lofoten Islands. I stood outside on the ferry’s upper deck, buffeted by a st...
Peñon Blanco, Via Lactea. Oriol Anglada (Catalonia) and Marisol Monterrubio (Mexico) opened Via Lactea (270m, 7 pitches, 5.12c [5.12a C2 obi.]) on the south face of Peñon Blanco, near Yerbanis in the high desert of Durango. The route ascends the m...
FALL ON SNOW–UNABLE TO SELF–ARREST DURING VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, POOR POSITION, WEATHERWashington, Mount Rainier National Park, Mount RuthOn June 22, a group of nine Mountaineers and I set off to attempt Mount Ruth, a spur-peak on the north-east flan...
Aconcagua Argentina. Alfredo Magnani and Luis A. Parra. Ediciones Dhaulagiri, Mendoza, Argentina, 1981. 84 pages, diagrams, maps. Spanish text. $18.00.It is fortunate that this, the first guidebook of Aconcagua, was prepared by the two persons who...
Bisoton, New Routes. Pascal Dauger, Arnaud Guillaume, and I made it to Iran on May 14. Getting visas was relatively easy: three weeks’ delay and 45 dollars. Nonetheless, the instability of the political situation was such that, by autumn, these vi...
Cayambe, North Side, Cotopaxi, Yanasacha Wall and Tungurahua, Southwest Flank and South Ridge. A new route on the north side of Cayambe (5789 meters, 18,993 feet) was completed on August 9, 1988 by four residents of Quito, some of them foreign: Lu...
Changabang, North Face, The Lightning Route. Carlos Buhler (U.S.) led a five-member team, four of whom (Andrei Volkov, Andrei Marei, Ivan Dusharin, Pavel Chabaline) were Russian, on a capsule-style ascent of the direct north face of the 6864-meter...
Tharkot, 1986, and Laspa Dhura, 1987. Our two Kumaon expeditions were joint ventures between the Indian Himalaya’s Beckon Club of Calcutta and British teams. In 1986 we travelled up the Sundardhunga valley and ascended Tharkot (6099 meters, 20,010...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR–RAPPELLING TOO FAST, INEXPERIENCENorth Carolina, Great Smokey Mountain National ParkAround 2:30 p.m. on July 25, Adam Holenberg (23) was rappelling from a cliff above Rainbow Falls in the Cherokee Orchard area when he fe...