Hiunchuli Patan. Our party consisted of Roger Breakall, J. Darling, J. Gostling and me. We arrived in the vicinity of Hiunchuli Patan (28° 55'N, 82° 40'E) on September 30 but it took us two weeks to force a way through a trackless bamboo forest an...
Nevado Anucara and Other Peaks, Northern Andes, 1993. In August, 1993, at the height of the southern winter, climbers from Valparaíso traveled to northernmost Chile. A military truck took them to Base Camp in the hamlet of Caquena at the northern ...
Shisha Pangma Ascent and Tragedy. A 14-man Spanish Army expedition, led by Major Francisco Soria, also included several civilians. They were the only group to reach the main summit of Shisha Pangma (8027 meters, 26,336 feet) in the post-monsoon se...
The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee guides comprehensive mountaineering education from beginning through advanced levels; organizes summer, winter, and rock climbing schedules; selects and trains new climb leaders; and promotes safety in all Mazam...
Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue. Andy Selters. Illustrations by Jennifer Hahn. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1990. 154 pages, 60 illustrations, 5 black-and-white photographs. Paperback. $12.95.This clearly-written and well-illustrated little textb...
From November 23 to 27 Zhou Peng and I climbed the central south face of Siguniang (a.k.a. Yaomei Feng), the main peak of Siguniang Shan (Four Girls Mountains). In December 2008 the Chinese Ultimate Expedition attempted this line using fixed r...
Driftwood Valley, by Theodora C. Stanwell-Fletcher. 369 pages and 15 page appendix; illustrated. Boston: Little, Brown & Co., 1946. $4.00.An account of two whole years in a cabin some hundred miles northeast of Hazleton, B. C., Driftwood Valle...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonClay Roscoe (26) and Megan T. Piper (25) traveled down from Montana on July 30 and spent the night in the Bridger Teton National Forest at Station Creek, located in ...
El Mocho, Little Big Wall. We left our equipment at the foot of Media Luna, in front of El Mocho, in preparation for our attempt on Cerro Torre. Thanks to all the strong mental training for our first expedition, we took our stuff and put everythin...
The Stettner Way: The Life and Climbs of Joe and Paul Stettner. Jack Gorby. Golden: Colorado Mountain Club Press, 2003. 210 pages. Paperback. $14.95.When I opened this book and began reading a description of the authors visit to Joe Stettner’s hom...
Our initial plan was to explore valleys and the previously unattempted mountains in the Xiangqiuqieke Massif. In particular we wanted to try the second highest summit, 5,867m Xiangqiuqieke (the highest, an unnamed peak of 5,870m, lies near...
Bolivia, 1980-1981. There was a lot of trash this year. Fifty large parties climbed out of the Tuni Condoriri valley and Huayna Potosí and Illimani had such herds on them that their normal routes became trenches, fine lines dotted with rubbish, zi...
Bruce Anderson and I climbed this route, The Chimney (IV 5.10+, 8 pitches), in a one-day push in mid-summer 1993. The route, on the north side of the creek, lies on the largest, most prominent buttress in the first three miles of the canyon. This ...
West Sichuan Highland, an exploratory visit and first ascent of Peak 5,160m. On the advice of Tamotsu Nakamura, a party from the Yamanashi Mountaineering Federation visited the unknown mountains of South Kham, Sichuan, from October 1 to 16. The ar...
Shisha Pangma in the Pre-Monsoon, Mostly to the Lower Central Summit. Only one climber, German Jakob Kirschmer, reached the highest summit (8027 meters, 26,336 feet) of Shisha Pangma this spring. All others climbed to the slightly lower central su...
EMILY YOUNG O' BRIEN1866 - 1945Emily Young O’Brien was horn in Lisbon, N. H., October 28, 1866, and as a girl early acquired a love for the mountains and forests of northern New England. She graduated from Boston University in 1891, as valedictori...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Two members of the successful Italian expedition on the South face suffered frostbitten feet. Further details are not available.Safety Committee, American Alpine Club, 1961Benjamin G. Ferris, Jr., Chairman Weston, Massachuset...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Colorado, Longs PeakGary Quinn, an employee of the Tahusa Boy Scout Camp, was the designated “guide” of a group of scouts who were involved in a clim...
Bawangshan (5,551m), Susunshan (5,183m), first ascents. Our expedition went in commemoration of the 10th anniversary of the Japanese Alpine Club, Hiroshima Section. Though Bawangshan belongs to the Qonglai Mountains, the area surrounding this peak...
FALLING ROCK-CRUSHED HANDCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Sea of DreamsMy name is Robert. I am a 24 year old Austrian. On April 12, I started soloing the Sea of Dreams on El Capitan. The climbing was excellent—demanding but not dangerous. ...