Emerald Star Mountain, Leaving Llamaland. From May 30-June 3, Amanda Tarr established the route Leaving Llamaland (V+ 5.7 A2+, 1,000') on Emerald Star Mountain, two buttresses right of the route Emerald Star Majesticus. A full account of her solo ...
Redakh Brakk, and Other Ascents. During the Haramosh II Expedition in 1995, we could not help noticing a prominent unknown mountain that dominated the view to the northeast looming up behind the ridge bounding the far end of the Sgari Byen Gang Gl...
Hidden Peak. An 11-man Japanese expedition led by Masahiro Maezawa climbed Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) by its first-ascent route on the southeast ridge. After reconnaissance, they left the mountain for nine days in early July to assist in the rescu...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainOn May 27,1986, two climbers were ascending Lien’s Layback, a four-pitch rock route rated 5.7, near Banff townsite. The lead climber (25) had rea...
The California Mountaineering Club. With the last issue of our newsletter, the California Mountaineering Club entered its eighth year. Membership this year exceeded the 300 mark. This year saw the tragic death of our president, R. Dave Dykeman, wh...
Himalchuli North. Just five days after the South Koreans put a team on top of this virgin peak, two Poles made the second ascent. Zdzislaw Jakubowski and Jerzy Klincewicz went to the top on November 1 from their bivouac at 6600 meters. The expedit...
Trisul I, Attempt. Three years after a previous attempt, Iñaki Ruiz, Jesus Gómez and I returned to try Trisul I again. Our climbing style was simple: alpine-style, no fixed ropes, three high camps and two altitude tents for those three camps.We ar...
Saipal Attempt. On October 24, Austrians Franz Kröll, Fritz Mross and Ang Chhepal Sherpa reached 6630 meters on the west ridge of Saipal, at a point called “Firnkopf” by Austrians in 1954. They then turned back. They estimated it would have taken ...
“Hair-raiser Buttress,” Granite Basin. Vern Clevenger and I climbed this route in June. The route ascends the only prominent, pitted buttress in the middle of the Granite Basin group. We started off some boulders slightly uphill from the low point...
Gesellschaft Alpiner Bücherfreunde. This organization, with headquarters in Munich, Theresienstrasse 78, was organized in 1928 for the purpose of producing German versions of rare and modern Alpine books for its members. The annual dues are RM. 10...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE NAVIGATION SKILLS, UNABLE TO SELF- ARREST–ICE AXES ON PACKS INSTEAD OF IN HAND, WEATHEROregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn Saturday February 18, a party of eight climbers departed Timberline lodge for a climb to Illumination S...
Unexplored Mountains of Wadi Rum, 1984. If Wadi Rum means anything to anyone, it probably conjures up visions of Lawrence of Arabia, for it was from there in that remote region of desert mountains that he based his raids on the Turks and Aqaba. Si...
Solimana Traverse and Coropuna, Cordillera Occidental. On June 29 Hans Dümmler, Hans Raum, Heinz Thäter and I left the Hacienda Hiatapampa on the Chuquibamba-Cotahuasi road at about 14,450 feet and that same day set up Base Camp at 16,900 feet bel...
Cerro CABA. Cerro CABA (2500 meters, 8202 feet), the highest summit of the Cordón Pico Alto, lies in the region of El Bozón on the Argentine-Chilean border. It was first climbed in 1951. Fernán González and Lucas Angelino went to Lago Puelo, cross...
FALL ON ROCK, EQUIPMENT FAILURENew MexicoRecently, an REI customer had an accident while rock climbing in which a carabiner broke. (He was not injured, fortunately.) The customer returned the carabiner to the Albuquerque store, and our testing lab...
Mount Huntington, Second Ascent of Northwest Ridge. Our team included Cindy Jones, Bob Newman, Todd Rentchler, Roger Robinson, Charlie Campbell and me. On April 5 we flew with pilot Buddy Woods, minus Campbell, who had contracted strep throat, to ...
Nun and Kun, UIAA Training Camp.The training camp organized by the UIAA was a remarkable success. A team of 28 mountaineers between the ages of 18 and 56 represented nine countries, three continents and four major religions and spoke 18 different ...
Naltar Valley, 1990. In August and September of 1990, Irish climbers Orla and Maurice Prendergast and Tomas Aylward visited the Naltar valley and climbed Snow Dome (5030 meters, 16,503 feet) by the north ridge, Sentinel (5260 meters, 17,257 feet) ...
La Reina, Cordillera de Santa Marta. With a hired Colombian boy I walked into the Santa Marta massif from Atanquez up the Donachui River. Having lost my ice axe and crampons on the way to Colombia, I had to pick a rock route, the steep southeast r...
Rock of Ages, Southeast Ridge. From well left of the col east of the peak, this route was first climbed on June 24, 1979 by George Montopoli and Tim Hogan. After some F5 rock work, the first significant pitch contained F7 and F8 face and crack cli...