Nacimiento Massif and Other Peaks, 1986 and 1988. Our club has sent four expeditions into the region south of the Ojos del Salado in 1976, 1986, 1987 and 1988. In 1986 and 1988, we made first ascents. Our 1986 group had seven climbers. In January,...
Mount Adams, Stormy Monday Couloir. Craig Reininger and I made an ascent of a spectacular snow and ice finger on the north side of Mount Adams on July 6 and 7. Starting from the lower Adams Glacier we ascended a snow finger to its left until we ca...
Nez Percé (11,700). First traverse on July 12th, by Robert L. M. Underhill and the writer. Ascent made from east (new route) and traverse of all four summits. Descent by west face.First solo ascent on August 22nd, by George E. Goldthwaite. Ascent ...
Everest, North Face Attempt. We tried to climb a new route on the north face of Everest to the left of the 1984 Australian route. I had intended to go solo but my wife Annie decided to accompany me and we were together on the wall. This route is v...
Princeton Mountaineering Club. On June 17, 1955, Kerck Kelsey (President), Tom Tifft, Dave Isles, Terhan Tirana, Guy Williamson, and Bruce Carrick assembled in the Club station wagon and departed for Glacier, B. C. The party reached the Illecillew...
Artesonraju. From July 22 to August 8 Michael Jacobson, Mark Levinson, James Lingerfeld, Kim Meyers, David Paskin and I climbed Artesonraju (19,766 feet). The ascent was made in three groups on two successive days via the standard route up the nor...
California—Arrowhead: On May 23, 1952 two ropes started up the Arrow-head slightly to the right of the regular route of ascent. They planned to join the regular route which they felt lay directly above them. The climbing was 4th class. Ray Van Ake...
Laramcota Valley, Quimsa Cruz. The Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz can be reached by LaPaz-Viloco local buses. From the village of Tiendapata, near Viloco, I walked up the Choquecota Chico valley and camped near some lakelets shelved under its northern ...
Balmat, Cordillera Blanca. The French Cultural Attaché in Lima, Olivier Dollfus, and François Megard with the Peruvian, Eugenio Angeles, made the first ascent of Balmat (18,045 feet) on July 29 and the third ascent of Ishinka (18,373 feet) on July...
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, NOT ON ANY KNOWN ROUTECalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Marmot DomePark dispatch received a cellphone call from climber Daniel Susman (20s) around 10 a.m. on July 15th, in which Susman reported tha...
Pik Vector, first ascent. From March 7-23 Aleksey Avdienko, Maxim Brits, Vitaly Ivanov (leader), and Igor Slobodchikov made the first ascent of Pik 3,716m in the Mushtuajri valley not far from the highest peak in the range, Belukha (4,506m). The t...
Ribbon Falls Amphitheater, Reason Beyond Insanity. On October 12, Canadian Sean Easton and I started up the previously unclimbed 1,200-foot main wall of the Ribbon Falls Amphitheater. Three days earlier we had climbed and fixed ropes on pitches on...
California, Yosemite Valley. On June 1st Mike Blake (age 19), Bruce Schuler (25), and Brian Watson (21) were climbing the Right Side of La Cosita on El Capitan, a Grade I Class 5.9 route. Watson had climbed the route the previous year and was serv...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR - FAILED TO CLIP INTO ANCHOR California, Joshua Tree National Park, Saddle Rock On April 18, Dave Pinegar had lowered his partner from the route Walk on the Wild Side to the next anchor with his belay device. The pa...
Bhagirathi I, North Ridge. Our expedition was composed of Toshifumi Sakae, Mikiei Otake, Kenichi Saito, Miss Yuki Sato, Miss Noriko Hasegawa and me as leader. We set up Base Camp at Nandanban, Advance Base on the northeast side of Bhagirathi II an...
The Name, “Paine.” The Paine peaks of Patagonia did not receive their name from some wandering Gringo. (The name is pronounced “pine-eh.”) The name originated around 1886 when an Argentine traveler, trekking into southernmost Chile, saw the peak a...
Mount Rainier, North Ridge Routes. By completing the second ascent of the original Ptarmigan Ridge route this summer, Gene Prater, of Ellensburg, has become the only climber to ascend all of the routes bordering and splitting Willis Wall. He repor...
Chimney Rock, South Nose. Northern Idaho’s famed ridgetop landmark, Chimney Rock, yielded its fourth and perhaps most spectacular route on August 11 when Jerry Fuller and I scaled the thin and sometimes overhanging south nose. We used a total of 2...
CB-14 (6,078m), plane wreckage found. An Indian (Bengal) team led by Anal Das climbed this peak on 19th of August. Summit climbers were Swaraj Ghosh, Ajoy Mondai, Subrata Banerjee, Sanjay Ghosh, Moloy Mukherjee, and Arindam Mukherjee with three hi...
Alpine Club of Canada. The year 1974 was one of expansion for ACC activities. The General Mountaineering Camp was held for three weeks at Robson Pass, close to Berg Lake. The 1973 experiment of a training week to begin the camp was highly successf...