Barrill’s Mount McKinley AffidavitH. Bradford WashburnA major article has emerged on the subject of Dr. Frederick A. Cook’s claim to have made the first ascent of Mount McKinley on September 16, 1906. When Adams Carter and I wrote the article whic...
Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section had an active 2006 promoting the AAC’s goals of Knowledge, Conservation, and Community. The Section hosted nine events at which it welcomed AAC members, their guests, visiting climbers, and the publ...
Laramie boys Oliver Deshler and I made two trips into the Clear Creek valley in the northern Winds this summer. As a warm-up, on June 23 we climbed the previously unclimbed north-facing wall of Flat Top Mountain, via the northeast arête: Tru...
Defying Gravity: High Adventure on Yosemite’s Walls. Gary Arce. Wilderness Press, Berkeley, California, 1995. Softcover, 194 pages. $24.95.Defying Gravity is a history of Yosemite rock climbing that provides easy reading and an adequate, if often-...
British Women’s Himalayan Expedition, Kishtwar Himal. Our party included Mrs. Brede Arkless, Mrs. Janet Rogers, Mrs. Audrey Whillans, and me as leader, British; Miss Mary Anne Alburger, American; and Mrs. Shashi Kanta, Indian Liaison officer. We w...
Mount Vancouver (15,787') and Good Neighbor Peak (15,700') complete climbing history. All climbs are described in the following year’s AAJ.1949: Mt. Vancouver (first ascent), via northwest ridge1967: Good Neighbor and Vancouver, (first ascent of G...
Mt. Shkelda, New Route in Winter. Shkelda is a well-known mountain in the Caucasus. Its “Majesty Fence” consists of five main peaks. From west to southeast, they are the First, Second and Third Western peaks, Central Peak and Eastern Peak, plus a ...
Mt. Robson, 1934Mt. Robson has the doubtful distinction of being the peak most frequently attempted, unsuccessfully, in all the Canadian Rockies. The first ascent was made in 1913 from the Robson Glacier by A. H. MacCarthy, W. W. Foster and Conrad...
SLIP ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierOn September 5, 1983, MRC member Dave Larson, with fellow climbers Dee Urbick, Denny Smith and Glenn Wetzel, turned back at the top of Disappointment Cleaver because of high ...
FALL ON ROCK, MISCOMMUNICATIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy Ridge, WhitemanOn March 20, there was a very nasty accident up at Lumpy Ridge that happened to a very experienced climber (in his 30’s). He fell about 110 feet from the to...
Mount Everest (Qomolungma), Northeast Ridge and North Face. The Japanese Alpine Club’s Qomolungma Expedition was composed of 39 members, including 13 press and television people. It was led by Hyoriko Watanabe. They established Base Camp on May 5 ...
Roxanna Brock and Brian McCray brought home the bronze, placing third in the International Mountaineering Trophy big wall climbing competition. The event, hosted by the Russian Mountaineering Federation from July 25-August 20, took place in the Ka...
Mount Everest Group, Attempted Traverses. There were two ambitious plans for very lightweight traverses via the highest point on earth (see Nepal for that of Anatoli Boukreev). An Italian, Reinhard Patscheider, who was an independent climber on th...
STRANDED, OFF ROUTE, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn September 9, 1985, at 0830,1 was told to go up to the Longs Peak Trail to ascertain the location, condition, and, if necessary, to evacuate an overdue climbing part...
Framnes Mountains, MacRobertson Land. I was working in a scientific capacity in the Framnes Mountains near the Australian station of Mawson in the winter of 1984 and the summers of 1984-5 and 1985-6. The three main ranges of Henderson, Masson and ...
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHER, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—RAPPEL ANCHOR CAME OFF, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, High Sierra, Middle PalisadeAt 4:15 a.m. on August 14, experienced climbers Alfred Fordiani (43) and Dave Brummund (42) left their Brainard Lake c...
La Esfinge, Mecho Taq Inti? Our team was two women, Tanja Rojs and Aleksandra Voglar, and I, Andrej Grmovsek, all from Slovenia. After acclimatization on Vallunaraju (5686m) we put up base camp under La Esfinge on July 11. Because of many articles...
French Expedition to Schweizerland, East Greenland. Under the aegis of the Club Alpin Français I organized a second small expedition in August, 1970. Knowing the difficulties of getting into the Atter massif, which we failed to reach in 1969, we c...
In July on Pedra Riscada, near São José do Divino in the state of Minas Gerais, Horacio Gratton (Argentina), Stefan Glowacz, Holger Heuber, and Klaus Fengler (Germany), and I opened Place of Happiness (850m, 5.12d). It is a magic line in an amazin...
FALL ON ROCK, STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES,INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Arizona, Camelback MountainAt 1240 on January 24, 1987, the Phoenix Fire Department was notified that a male (18) had fallen about 60 meters to his death from a route known as Suicid...