Thalay Sagar Attempts and Tragedy. A 3-man Japanese expedition led by Kenji Takagi failed to climb Thalay Sagar by its north face. After they had reached 6400 meters in late September, the leader fell to his death from the high point while rappell...
Kasum Kanguru, East Face. In April, Yasushi Yamanoi of Japan soloed a new route on the east face of Kasum Kaguru (6370m). He started from Base Camp at 4 a.m. on April 21 and reached the summit 22 hours later. The first 600 meters of the route was ...
Mount Steele, East Ridge. The Kajika party, Kunio Asaoka, Takashi Nakamura, Koichi Takeuchi, Miss Tokiko Michioka, Shigo Ito and I established Base Camp below the east ridge on April 19. Camp I was established at 10,300 feet on the 21st. Above 11,...
Ama Dablam, Southwest Ridge, Pre-Monsoon. The southwest ridge of Ama Dablam continues to be the objective of numerous expeditions. In the premonsoon season only one group made the climb successfully to the summit. On April 4, Michael Murphy of the...
Torre Egger and Innominata. Our expedition consisted of Dr. Daniel Reid, Rick Sylvester, Americans, Rafael Juárez, Argentine, Eric Jones, Tut Braithwaite, Martin Boysen, Mick Coffey, Keith Lewis, Don Whillans and me, British. For more than two mon...
Uli Biaho Tower, East Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Carlo Grossrubatscher, Adam Holzknecht, Dieter Demetz, Walter Pancheri and me as leader. We hoped to climb the still unascended east face of the Uli Biaho Tower (6083 meters, 19,95...
Kishtwar Himal. An expedition comprising Simon and Elizabeth Brown, Pete Butler, Nicki and Jane Clough, Rob and Netti Collister and, for a short time, a liaison officer, was in the Padar region, based on Athole (Arthal), during September and Octob...
Colorado, Maroon Bells—On August 5, 1956 Ralph Melville with two companions, a boy and a girl, reached the summit of Maroon Bells. As they descended Melville tried to glissade a steep snow slope. He lost his footing and catapulted down a gully. He...
Latok II Attempt. Three days after leaving Askole on June 10, Thomas Strausz, Wolfgang Göschl, Andreas Hollinger and I got to 4500-meter Base Camp on the Uzun Brakk Glacier. Our objective was the southwest buttress of Latok II, the westernmost sum...
Queen Maud Land, Various Ascents. Ivar Erik Tollefsen led a Norwegian expedition to Queen Maud Land, one of the most isolated and unexplored regions of Antarctica. The expedition made 36 first ascents, including the first ascent of Jokulkyrkja (31...
South Face of Prusik Peak, Cashmere Crags. Although we had reserved the first ascent of the 900-foot south face of Prusik Peak for the visit of the French climbers, Guido Magnone and Jean Coure, poor organization on the part of their sponsors and ...
Glückliche Tage auf hohen Bergen, by Walter Schmidt. 326 pages, with 106 photographic illustrations by the author and an index. Bern: Verlag Hallweg, 1951. Price, $4.65.The author of the readable Komm mit mir ins Wallis and Rendezvous in Zermatt h...
Wrangell Mountains, Various Ascents. On April 3, Paul Claus of Ultima Thule Outfitters flew Anchorage climbers Paul Barry, Kirk Towner and me from Chitina to “Bona Basin” at 10,500 feet on the upper Klutlan Glacier.From this base camp we were able...
Illimani, North Ridge and Peaks in Condoriri Group. Thirteen members of the Club Alpino Italiano, Lucca, climbed in the southern Cordillera Real in June and July 1976. In the Condoriri group they made ascents to Huallomen (5463 meters, 17,920 feet...
Mount Logan. Three Canadian parties climbed Mount Logan. David Hughes, Robert Kandiko, Jim Allen, Paul Starr, Tim Ryan, Douglas Herchmer and Nichol Ross climbed the Catenary Ridge. Douglas Dalquist, Michael Strong, Brian Maclean and Kelley Kissock...
East Buttress of Bridalveil Fall: On September 14, T. M. Herbert and I made the first ascent of a thin, esthetic buttress just east of Bridalveil Fall. The route consists of 5 pitches and took about 6½ hours. The first three pitches are direct aid...
Fang. The Fang (7647 meters, 25,090 feet) is a sharp rock-and-ice tooth crowning three jagged ridges and sérac-covered faces, southwest of Annapurna I. Its south face rises steeply some 16,000 feet. The highest still unclimbed summit in Nepal, it ...
Mount Hayden. Near South Twin Sister and climbed by the southwest side.
Annapurna South or Moditse. The expedition of 15 climbers was led by Jerzy Pietkiewicz. They were very keen and determined but sadly lacking in high-mountain experience. On April 15 the main party arrived at Base Camp, which had been set up by an ...
Mt. Everest, North Face, Variation. A Russian expedition led by Kazbek Khamitasayev ascended what they said was an unclimbed rib on the north face to an altitude of perhaps 7500 meters before abandoning that line and traversing left to the standar...