Staunings Alper. The “High Altitude Astronomers’ Expedition” consisted of Britons E. Knobloch, D. Smith, Canadians L. Murdock, C. Pritchet, S. Tremaine, H. Yee and me from Norway. We flew to Mestersvig on July 24 and returned to Akureyri, Iceland ...
Treasure Peak, The Pharaoh and The White Fang. Treasure Peak is 6 miles north of Mount Abbott and is called by this name in R.J. Secor’s guide. In July, Urmas Franosch and I did “Band of Gypies,” a direct route on its unclimbed north face. Three f...
Chiring West Attempt. A Japanese expedition, led by Tadashi Kamei, attempted Chiring West (7025 meters, 23,048 feet) by its southwest ridge. They established two high camps, but Camp III was not set up because provisions were swept away from an in...
Manda I (6511m), ascent. A two-member Korean team attempted this peak via the west face and north ridge, the route taken by the 1981 first ascensionists. Kim Hyoung-Duk and an Indian High Altitude Porter, Laxman, made a final push on September 17....
Satopanth. Hiroshi Kawasaki, Toru Kurosawa and I climbed Satopanth by the normal north-ridge route, reaching the summit on June 12. We established Base Camp at Vasuki Tal and Camps I, II and III on June 1,4,7 and 11 at 4850, 5100, 5750 and 6100 me...
Catalogue of the Himalayan Literature. Second Edition. Yoshimi Yakushi. Hakusuisha Publishing Co., Tokyo, 1984. 759 pages. ¥19,000.In 1972 Yoshimi Yakushi, compiler and editor of the present catalogue, encouraged by his mentor Mr. Kyuya Fukata (Vi...
Mir Samir, Direct South Buttress. While on a Mountain Travel excursion to the Chamar valley, on August 3 and 4, 1972 Jim Wilson and I climbed a new route on Mir Samir (19,059 feet), the direct south buttress. The buttress we climbed is to the righ...
Latok I, north ridge, attempt; various new routes on surrounding peaks; repeat of Indian Face Arête. Last summer my brother Willie and I returned to the Choktoi Glacier with fellow Argentinean, Matias Erroz. Our goal was another attempt on the hug...
Aguja Saint Exupéry, South Face, “Le Petit Prince.” Gaël Bouquet- Deschaux, Emmanuel Pellissier, Benoît Robert, Jérôme Arpin and I made a mostly aid route on the unclimbed south face of the Aguja Saint Exupéry. We could climb on only eleven days i...
HENRY AUGUSTUS BUCHTEL, III 1906-1988Dr. Henry Augustus Buchtel, a long-time member of the American Alpine Club and the Colorado Mountain Club, passed away on April 18 at his home in Green Valley, Arizona after a long illness. He is survived by hi...
Coast Mountains, Traverse of the Taku-Whiting Divide. Jan Palaty, Steve Sheffield, Dave Williams and I spent four weeks traversing the Taku-Whiting Divide on skis in April and May. From Juneau we took a floatplane to the confluence of the Taku and...
The Karakoram—Mountains of Pakistan. Shiro Shirahata. Cloudcap, Seattle, 1990. 192 pages, 101 color photographs of which 56 measure 14×20-inches and 45 measure 10×l4-inches. $75.00.Shiro Shirahata, whose superb Nepal Himalaya appeared in 1983, is ...
CLIMBING UNROPED AND UNPROTECTED—Washington, Mt. St. Helens, Ape Canyon. Sp. 4 Peter Mosier (26) was with a U.S. Army training group when he fell 200 feet to his death down a shear rock wall. He was free climbing on a cockscomb like ridge of loose...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, BAD ADVICEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Long’s PeakOn September 17, at 1140, two unidentified females (approximate ages 25) became stranded on the North Face of Longs Peak on the crack system adjacent to t...
Diklos-mta, Addala and Addala East, Dagestan, Caucasus. This British- Ukrainian expedition climbed in the Snegovoy and Bogosski ranges in the remote western part of Dagestan in the Eastern Caucasus from August 11 to September 8. We made three firs...
Nun, 1993, Mysterious Disappearance. On August 22, 1993, after establishing Camp II on Nun, we returned to Base Camp. On the way we met three Germans, who revealed that they would attempt D41 (Barmal Peak; 5813 meters, 19,039 feet). Two days later...
Verónica, Attempt on the Unclimbed Northeast Buttress, Cordillera Ur- umbamba. Stuart Thompson, Roger Gott, John James, Mark Lewis, John Burrow and I were in the area from July 19 to August 25. We attempted two routes on the northeast buttress fro...
Gasherbrum I, Ascent. Spaniards Txetxu Lete Bernardo, Koke Lasa Berasategui and Luis Miguel Lopez Soriano climbed the Japanese Couloir on the north face, summitting on July 16, 1995.
Torre Norte del Paine, South Spur, and Torre Sur, North Spur, Winter Ascents. Luca Leonardi and I left Italy on June 10 hoping to climb one of the Paine towers in winter. There had never been even a winter attempt before in the Paine group. On Jun...
Volcan Lautaro, Attempt. On November 27, the Swiss Jurg Anderegg made an almost complete ascent of Volcan Lautaro, taking four days from Piedra del Fraile to the summit. He saw no volcanic activity, and found one section of the route dangerous due...