Sierra and Yosemite, various activity. Climbing.com reported that Dave Turner soloed a new route, Block Party (VI 5.9 A4), on the southeast face of El Capitan. He fixed ropes for three days and spent 18 days on the wall, finishing June 21. The rou...
Kohe Khwaja Mohammad Myani Region. The Silesian Academic Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Martin Malkowski and had as members M. Bucholz, Krystyna Nitsche, Joanna Mroczkiewicz, J. Madey, A. Drygajlo, J. Pawlikowski, J. Wajler, A. Poslednik, J. Dra...
Churen Himal Attempt. A 14-man Italian expedition led by Oliviero Frachey attempted to climb Churen Himal by the southeast ridge of the east peak. They came to Nepal late and allowed insufficient time for their climb. After establishing four high ...
Grizzly Creek, Mudflap Girl and Mudwall. Unreported from 2005, in the Grizzly Creek drainage of Glenwood Canyon, Chris Kalous and I established Mudflap Girl (700', IV 5.10), the first new route on the wall since Layton Kor’s explorations in the 19...
Mount Triumph, South Ridge. A mixed scrambling and fifth-class route.
Fang Attempt, Southeast Ridge. A 20-man Italian expedition, led by Arturo Bergamaschi, set out from Pokhara on September 5 with 15 Sherpas and 155 porters. They went up the Modi Khola to the south side of Annapurna. Base Camp at 14,100 feet was re...
Devils Thumb, Stikine Icecap, Third Ascent. The approach used by Culbert’s party was not yet clear of ice and so Rich Mathies, Brad Fowler, Craig McKibbon* and I flew with Chuck Traylor of the Stikine Air Service to the mouth of the Flood River, s...
Vertical Heartland: A Rock Climber’s Guide to Southern Illinois. Eric Ulner, photography by David Hart. Second West, Carbondale, IL, 1996. Soft cover, 162 pages. $25.95.Comment: This glossy production is profusely illustrated with photos (some col...
Colque Cruz Group, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our expediton from Nürnberg was composed of Werner Scharl, leader, K. Scharl, R. Ilg, F. Rollenmiller, K. Sieland, H. Wolf, R. Sporer, H. Stiegler, W. Zinsmeister, K.H. Thiele, H. Sauer, H.W. Büttner and me...
Cho Oyu, New Route. It was reported that during an Out There Trekking Expedition in the pre-monsoon season, Russian guide George Kotov and American client Bill Pierson managed to find 1000 meters of new climbing on the north side of Cho Oyu. From ...
Aconcagua, South Face. The Tokyo Midori (Green) Alpine Club Expedition was led by Minoru Tatsuta and had as members Toshi Aoki, Masanori Nozaki, Takesaburo Ohashi and Naoyoshi Masuyama. From January 8 to 10 they travelled from Puente del Inca to t...
Central Tower of Paine, East Face. Ermano Salvaterra, Mauricio Giarolli and Elio Orlandi made a difficult new route on the east face of the Central Tower of Paine. They spent ten days on the climb with eight bivouacs. They rated it at UIAA grade V...
Chinchey and Ayukaraju. Shinichi Takizawa led this expedition. Base Camp was established on July 7 on Pucaranracocha at 13,775 feet. On July 21 Ichie Komiyama, Takeshi Yabunami, Taneshi Kaneko, Masatoshi Toda and Takeo Nezu climbed Chinchey (20,41...
Going High The Story of Man and Altitude, by Charles S. Houston, M.D. Published by the author and The American Alpine Club, 1980. 211 pages, 35 illus. including 17 b & w photographs, bibliography. Price $10.00.Charlie Houston is a modest man w...
Everest, Rapid Ascent. Frenchman Marc Batard announced that he would undertake climbing Everest in 24 hours round-trip from the south-side Base Camp via the South Col to the summit and back. After his acclimatization climb of Cho Oyu, he helicopte...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—BOOTSWyoming, TetonsOn July 27, 1985, at 2020, Quint Barney came to the Jenney Lake Ranger Station and reported an accident on the Skillet Glacier on Mt. Moran. Barney stated that he had climbed the CMC route on ...
Pumachanca Group, Cordillera Vilcanota. Faye Kerr, Mary Fulford and Esme Speakman, an English ladies group, climbed during the middle of August in the Pumachanca group, which rises above a snow- field at the head of the Quebrada San Lorenzo. (See ...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDUtah, Little Cottonwood CanyonOn November 11, 1987, a male (25) was climbing alone on Beckey’s Wall, on the route Half Finger (5.8). The hold he was reaching for had ice on it. His hand...
Satopanth. On April 27 an Austrian expedition set up Base Camp at 4400 meters. They transported their gear on skis without porters to Camp I and II at 5150 and 6100 meters. Camp II was at the foot of the northeast ridge, which merges into the face...
Erika and Yanina, first ascents; Gemelos Este, possible new route. Gemelos (The Twins) is a mountain near Las Cuevas and the Aconcagua area, near the Chilean border in Argentina’s Provincia de Mendoza. A group directed by Glauco Muratti was active...