New Routes on Monkhead and Llysfran, Maligne Lake. The Iowa Mountaineers’ 1957 summer climbing Base Camp was held at Maligne Lake August 13 to 28, 76 persons participating in the outing. A new route on Monkhead (10,535 feet) was led by Toni Messne...

Lhotse Ascent and Everest Ascent and Tragedy. A Macedonian expedition led by Jovan Poposki was joined by Slovene Viktor Grošelj and Croat Stipe Božic on April 15. The Macedonians were already at Camp III at 7400 meters. While the latter continued ...

P 12,200, Lowell Glacier, St. Elias Mountains. In August, 1974 Mike Price, Randy Hargesheimer, Dave Lawrence, Matt Kerr, Cheryl Soshnik and I left the Alaska Highway and spent ten days trekking up Slims River and the Kaskawulsh Glacier. We climbed...

Ama Dablam Attempt, 1990. I originally intended to try the Lugunak (southeast) Ridge, but since my companions had backed out in the United States, I switched to a solo effort on the standard southwest ridge. I was added to the permit of a South Ti...

Sierra Club. The past year has proved a very active one for Sierra Club members. Besides the usual conducted trips to the High Sierra during the summer months, rock climbers and mountaineering members accomplished several climbs of note in the loc...

Peaks above the Northern Patagonia Icecap. The British Joint Services Expedition (11 members, plus two Chilean army lieutenants), led by C. H. Agnew and C, S. Gobey, spent five months (October 1972-March 1973) on the Chilean Northern Continental I...

A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. A dinner meeting was held on December 9, 1960. Plans for section activities during the coming year were discussed, and two members presented very interesting talks. Gerry Cunningham described his research for the Ai...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand TetonAbout 2400 on June 26, Stephen Stenger and Arthur Leech (34) left the Lupine Meadows trailhead intending to attempt a one day ascent of the North Ridge of the Grand Teton. They regist...

Nanga Parbat, attempted first winter ascent. A strong, primarily Polish expedition failed to make the first winter ascent of any 8,000m peak in Pakistan, when fierce winds forced it to abandon an attempt on Nanga Parbat (8,125m) in January 2007. L...

Mount Fairweather. On June 20, John Imbrie, George West and I were landed in Gilbert Inlet of Lituya Bay. We had originally planned to approach Mount Fairweather from Cape Fairweather, but the pilot on duty at Channel Flying in Juneau that morning...

STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING, WEATHER California, Yosemite National Park, Stately Pleasure DomeOn June 24, 1992, Anne Tuite (21) and Sean Costello (29) became stranded on Stately Pleasure Dome due to a rain and hail storm.After a di...

P 5866 (Thunmo), Baltoro Cathedral, solo. In June, with a trekking permit and seven porters, I set up “Base Camp” on the Dunge Glacier. I made solo a VII, 5. 10d, A4+ climb of 54 pitches on the Baltoro Cathedral in 13 days. I spent two days fixing...

Brammah II, Kishtwar Himal. The Sapporo Alpine Club Expedition was led by Kosaku Keiryo. They set up Base Camp on August 21 on the Brammah Glacier, west of the peak up the North Nullah. On September 15 Hideo Yokoyama and Shizuo Noku reached the su...

Japanese Expedition to the Cordillera Vilcanota. We organized our mountain climbing and scientific Japan Peru Andes Expedition with six Japanese members: Dr. Yoshifumi Takeda, leader, Itaru Nishimura, subleader, Masahiro Ohe, Kenzo Agata, Keio Tak...

Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park (4)—On August 15, 1956 George Bloom (21) and a companion, John Carpenter, had climbed Mt. Craig and in descending had separated, each going down opposite sides of a steep rock ridge. Carpenter never saw Bloom...

Piramidalny. In the summer of 1991, five climbers from the United Kingdom visited the Ak-Su massif. After a delay caused by a mud slide on a road, we were finally helicoptered to the Asan Base Camp on August 2 from the Ak-Su International Base Cam...

Asp-e-Safed III, North Face. Our French expedition made the first ascent of the north face of Asp-e-Safed III (c. 20,670 feet) in July and August. After establishing Base Camp at 15,000 feet and Camp I at 16,900 feet, we fixed rope up to 19,350 fe...

Ama Dablam, crowds on normal route. In the view of many, there were too many people on Ama Dablam (6,812m) last autumn. Some Ama Dablam teams were very small with just a member or two and perhaps one Sherpa. And not all of the 29 expeditions were ...

Latok I Attempt. Julie Brugger, Andy DeKlerk, Colin Grissom and I attempted the north ridge of Latok I. We were about a third of the way up the route at the beginning of August when the weather turned bad. It stormed for 19 of the next 21 days, le...

Mount Epperly, First Ascent. Erhard Loretan reportedly made the first ascent of this peak in the Ellsworth Mountains. (High Mountain Sports 150.)