Kyajo Ri, first recorded ascent of southeast ridge. On October 24 Seth Hobby and I established base camp at 4,600m below the east face of Kyajo Ri (6,186m). Our plan was to climb the mountain from the northeast. Photos provided by our friend and t...

Nun Attempts. There were two unsuccessful expeditions to Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) in 1994. French climbers led by Jean Bordes attempted the north face while a British-American expedition led by Alan Burgess tried in September to climb the we...

AVALANCHE, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Stanley BasinOn February 24, 1979, two cross-country skiers, Michael Roger Cheng and Allison Joan Bonnie, of Calgary, Alberta, died in an avalanche in the Stanley Basin in Kootenay National...

Mt. Kennedy, North Buttress, First Alpine-Style Ascent. The 6,000-foot North Buttress of Mt. Kennedy was an obviously orgasmic and well-known alpine-style objective in the St. Elias Range. The buttress had been climbed twice before (1968 and 1977)...

Salcantay. Our team consisted of Michel Biodjekian, Jean-Paul and Geneviève Bouquier, Laurent and Evelyne Coursol, Maurice Gelman, Christian Genina, Albert Peret, Réné Tirollier, Alain Pascal, Bernard Hostein and me. In early July we all climbed C...

FALL ON SNOW, LOSS OF CONTROL – VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount TeewinotOn the morning of July 17, David Berry and Andrew Baldyga departed Yellowstone National Park and stopped at J...

Gasherbrum IV, East Face, Attempt. No protection and avalanches stopped a Korean expedition of the Seoul University Alpine Club at 7400 meters on August 11 on the east face of Gasherbrum IV (7925 m), which remains unclimbed. The expedition reached...

Central Tower of Paine, South-Southwest Face, 1986. Italians climbed a new route on the south-southwest face of the Central Tower of Paine. The route, which rises from the col between the central and south towers, crosses the bottom of the Kearney...

Kongur, Sinkiang. Our 10-man British Mount Kongur Expedition had two main objectives: to make the first ascent of Kongur and to conduct a programme of medical research into the reaction of the expedition members to altitude. The mountain was succe...

Techado Negro, Rost Spur. Many climbers took interest in this peak this past season. It lies on the far south end of the Fitz Roy Massif and is characterized by its black colored rock, which more often than not is very loose. Amongst the few ascen...

P 7455, P 7420, P 6600, Thompson Ridge, Chugach Mountains. On June 7, a six-man joint St. Elias Guides and American Alpine Institute expedition flew to the Thompson Ridge area near the headwaters of Granite Creek. On the 9th, we attempted P 7455 b...

FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR–NO BACKUP SYSTEMArkansas, Buffalo National River Wilderness Area, Hawksbill CragOn the afternoon of August 25th, a 20-year-old woman was rappelling off a 100-foot bluff near Hawksbill Craig, also known as Whitaker Point,...

Bhagirathi III. On June 6 Christian Bouvet, J-F. Lemoine, Guy Mervellec and I completed the third ascent of the Catalan route on the southwest buttress of Bhagirathi III. We made nine bivouacs, three of them in hammocks. We rappelled down the same...

Alpine Bibliographie für das Jahr 1934. 12 mo. ; 235 pages.Himalaja-Bibliographie (1801-1933). 12 mo.; 48 pages.Two publications of the Verein der Freunde der Alpenvereins- biicherei (Munich), compiled by Dr. Hermann Bühler. The Alpine bibliograph...

Huamashraju, various routes. Huamashraju (a.k.a. Wamashraju 5,434m) is located southeast of Huaraz, just above the village of Janku. On its west face there is a vertical 200m wall, the base of which is at around 5,000m. The wall reaches a summit r...

Mount Blackburn, Wrangell Mountains. On March 15, Alaskan climbers Art Ward, Gary Tandy, Steve Tandy, John Pinamont, and Don Pahlke achieved the first winter ascent in the Wrangells, and the second- highest winter summit yet attained in Alaska, on...

Romanzof Mountains, 1992. For some decades I have been exploring an east-west route through the Brooks Range along the Continental Divide, which begins at the Kongakut Bend. We pursued a part of this route in mid summer. The beautiful upper, north...

Mount Baker, Roman Nose. Looking up, we could understand why the Roman Nose, the last major unclimbed route on Mount Baker had not been attempted. The glacier on both sides of the 2000-foot snake-like arête were brown with fallen rock. We had come...

Kasum Kanguru, Northwest Face. It was reported that Yannick Graziani and Christian Tromsdörff established a new route, Tendi, on the northwest face of Kasum Kanguru. Further details are lacking. (Klettern February ’99)

K2 Attempt. The 1987 season on K2 was markedly different from that of 1986. No successful ascents were made, as opposed to 27 in 1986; the death toll was one, as opposed to 13 in 1986. The lack of success was due to a pattern of almost constant st...