Losar waterfall, one-day ascent. In February Conrad Anker and I did what may be the first one-day ascent of the famous “Losar” waterfall across from Namche Bazar in the Khumbu. We bivouacked at the bottom of the valley and climbed the 2,400-foot w...
UIAA International Mountaineering Camp, Hushe Valley. On August 31, all 25 members of the Second UIAA International Mountaineering Camp from 13 different countries arrived at Rawalpindi. The staff was Dr. Ruth Howlett, expedition doctor from UK, S...
Mount Paget, Fourth Ascent. It was reported that American Skip Novak, Britain Mark Strafford, Germans Gerhard Schmatz, Martin Anwander and Hans Engl, and Austrian Robert Schabetsberg ascended the unclimbed Northeast Face of Mount Paget (2934 meter...
Dragontail Peak, Stuart Range. Two new routes were made on Dragon- tail Peak, the highest mountain of the Stuart Range in the area of Colchuck Lake, early this summer by Dan Davis and me. We climbed the north face, with its “Piz Badile”-like slabs...
FALL ON SNOW – LOSS OF CONTROL ON GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Nez PerceOn August 11 between 1100 and 1600, Grand Teton National Park rangers and Teton Interagency Heli-tack personnel performed a 1,200- foot technical ...
Austria. Grieben’s Guide Book 234, with English text. Vienna and Heidelberg: Verlag Carl Ueberreuter, 1951.This guidebook to Austria, than which it is scarcely possible to imagine a better, supersedes the older Baedeker. Climbers will be impressed...
Silver Tip, West Ridge. Follow the Weden Creek road past the mine to where it begins to drop. About 30 feet lower and to the left is a miners’ trail. This well-marked trail leads directly to the base of the ridge (and a red tower). From here the r...
DONALD MASON WOODS1903-1989Teacher, climber, outdoorsman, photographer, world traveler, singer, actor, dancer, Donald Mason Woods died as a result of a freak accident on September 6, 1989. While alighting from his family pick-up truck in his own d...
Mt. Drum, Southwest Ridge. On June 10, Paul Claus of Ultima Thule Outfitters flew Anchorage climbers Judith Terpstra and me from Glennallen to a 6,200-foot glacier at the base of the 12,008-foot Mt. Drum’s southwest ridge (Alaska Grade II+). We es...
Salcantay, East Ridge. Our original objective had been the formidable south face of Salcantay, but the terrible avalanches which swept it ceaselessly made us give it up as too dangerous. Instead we divided into two groups. Five tried the normal ro...
This route was mentioned but not described in A.A.J. 1980. Dean Hannibal and I did a new route on the north face of Geikie in late August 1979. We followed the prominent buttress in the center of the face and then directly up a shallow buttress in...
Mount Logan, East Ridge. We four brothers, Herbert, Wolfgang and Bernhard Feichtner and I as leader climbed the east ridge of Mount Logan. On July 4 we were landed six miles from the start of the ridge. After placing camps at 11,000, 13,000 and 15...
Rixon’s Pinnacle, Direct South Face: Seeking a significant first ascent under winter conditions, Gary Colliyer and I chose the direct south face of Rixon’s Pinnacle. At dawn one day we waded through heavy drifts to the wall, although it was diffic...
Pico Vértigo, East Face and Other Climbs. Venezuelan mountaineering has now entered a new phase, in which new routes on rock walls are sought. Local walls, granitic, are steep and at times vertical, albeit short, averaging 300 to 700 feet high. Ar...
FALL ON ROCKWashington, Ingalls PeakThe body of a young Sumner man who died—despite a female companion’s courageous efforts—after falling while mountain climbing in the Wenatchee National Forest was recovered by a rescue team on July 5.Kittitas Co...
Purísima and Attempt on Peaks of Chinchey Group, Cordillera Blanca, and Ango, in Next Range to the East. Our small group, consisting of Richard Goody, leader, Donald Morton, David Redmond, my wife Ann and me, headed from Huántar up the Ruri Chinch...
On December 16, Tom Douglas (26) and I (29) hiked up to the base of Cannon Cliff to climb Black Dike, a moderate four-pitch mixed rock and ice climb. Finding a line of climbers waiting for the Dike, we decided instead to climb a harder line just...
Rakaposhi, Northwest Ridge. It was reported that Columbian Anibal Pineda made a solo climb of the northwest ridge of Rakaposhi (7788 meters). The expedition was said to have been led by Volker Stallbohm. (High Mountain Sports 157)
Mount Ball, Northeast Buttress. Jerry Fuller and I hiked to Shadow Lake to inspect the great north face of Mount Ball but found much loose rock and rockfall off its cliff bands. Instead we chose a not too difficult buttress fringing the left side ...
Chuyunco and Salcantay, Cordillera Vilcambamba. On July 12, starting from Sisaypampa, Bernard Cabane, Bertrand Gaudefroy, Benoit Finet, Denis Bourgeois, Jean-Jacques Rochon and Francis Bourgogne of the Maison des Jeunes and de la Culture, Romans, ...