Handholds to HeavenHard free-climbing on the rock walls of Pakistan’s Charakusa Valley.Nicolas FavresseBeep, beep, beep.… It’s one a.m. I wake in the middle of one of those dreams where nothing makes sense. It seems as though I’ve barely fallen as...

California, San Gabriel Mountains (2)—On November 19, Joseph High- cove (18), and Walter Reber (18) left Icehouse Resort, in the San Gabriel Mountains, for a climb up Icehouse Canyon to Icehouse Saddle. From there the pair planned to climb any one...

Releasing BellavistaSeventy years ago the Tre Cime Group in the Dolomites was home to the world's boldest and most overhanging aid climbs. The overhangs are still there—and so is the boldness—only now they're beginning to go free.Alexander HuberMo...

Chomolhari, north face, and Chomolhari, northwest pillar. A Slovenian expedition comprising Rok Blagus, Tine Cuder, Matej Kladnik, Samo Krmelj, Boris Lorencic, and Marko Prezelj, accompanied by a doctor, Damijan Mesko, established base camp at 5,0...

There is a rare feeling of completeness and calm that can only come after concerted effort and toil, sacrifice and vision. As the Beaver lifted off from the Kahiltna, and Jay and I headed for Talkeetna and home, I felt more at peace than I can eve...

Harvard Mountaineering Club. Most of the Club’s effort during 1962 was devoted to the construction of a log cabin on Mount Washington. The old cabin in Tuckerman Ravine had been scheduled for replacement for several years because of its age and ea...

ALTITUDE SICKNESS, BAD WEATHER, AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn July 19, three members of the four-man Spanish Volaska expedition to the West Buttress of Mount McKinley were descending from the 16,000-foot camp because Gomis Zaragoza had develop...

Jetiboburani, Nampa Group. A seven-man Japanese expedition from Shinshu University made the first ascent of Jetiboburani (22,470 feet), which lies south of Nampa. The leader was Kazuhiko Yamada. They climbed the east ridge. The summit was reached ...

The Wind River Range in WyomingKenneth A. HendersonIT is not generally appreciated that in Wyoming is to be found one of the most alpine regions of the American Rockies. In fact to one who has visited the western mountains elsewhere the sight of t...

Foraker, Talkeetna Ridge. On May 3, Dave Auble and I left the Kahiltna Glacier to attempt the second ascent of Foraker’s Talkeetna Ridge, first climbed by Bertulis, Bleser, Baer, and Williamson in 1968 (A.A.J., 1969, pp. 289-294). Our approach too...

FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinleyClaudia Berryman was a member of the guided eight-member Fantasy Ridge expedition to the West Rib of Mount McKinley. The expedition was guided by Michael Covington, who is the director.The expedition flew into the So...

Iowa Mountaineers Cordillera Blanca Expedition: Thirty-three members met in Lima, Peru on July 4 and during the next six days established Base Camp on a meadow at 13,500 feet in the Llanganuco valley (also but less correctly spelled “Yanganuco” ) ...

On December 22, 1999, Sean Easton and I arrived at the entrance of Torres del Paine National Park with four porters. In three days, with the help of the porters, we managed to move most of our gear to our chosen Advanced Base Camp at the base of...

“Mystery Towers” and The Hindu. These “Mystery Towers”, hidden in a wild maze of red sandstone, are 3/4 mile east of the Fisher Towers, 20 miles northeast of Moab. George Hurley had seen one of them from the summit of the Titan. George and I retu...

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Andromeda, Practice GulliesOn June 4, two climbers left the climber’s parking lot at 0500 enroute to the Practice Gullies (III) on Mount Andromeda. These inappropriately named ...

Spider Mountain, North Face. A climb of the hook-shaped snow finger leading directly to the summit.

FALL ON ROCKNew Hampshire, Iron MountainOn June 12, 1983, three hikers were descending from Iron Mountain when one of them got too close to the edge of a cliff and fell 100 meters to a ledge. (Source: Rick Wilcox. New Hampshire Mountain Rescue Ser...

Appalachian Mountain Club. Growth in almost all phases of A.M.C. activity dominated its 88th year: membership showed the greatest gain in history with a net increase of 627 for a total of 8,858 members at year end; so many persons showed up for th...

Renamed Nepalese Peaks. On January 1, 1983 the Nepalese government considered renaming a number of peaks and geographical features, but this is not yet official.Past NamePresent NamePast NamePresent NameCross PeakTaple ShikharLady’s PeakGumba Chul...

Mischief Goes South, by H. W. Tilman. London: Hollis & Carter, 1968. 190 pages, 18 photographs, 3 maps. Price: 30s.Mischief Goes South is the fifth in a series of sea narratives by this mountaineer turned sailor. Tilman, whose distinguished mo...