In the Rain and the Sun, by the Rt. Hon. L. S. Amery, C. H. 238 pages. London and New York: Hutchinson & Co., Ltd., 1946. 21/-.A sequel to Days of Fresh Air*, this is essentially an account of the author’s travels outside of England since 1914...
Cerro Torre, Attempt. Slovenian Grega Lance and Spaniard Carlos Suarez attempted a new route on the east face of Cerro Torre during the 1996-’97 season. Further details are lacking.Charlie Fowler, unaffiliated
Deep in the Shaluli Shan mountains of China lies the Genyen Massif, an area that has been described to us as “the Tetons jacked up on steroids.” Dave Anderson, Sarah Hueniken, Andy Tyson, and I have been lured halfway around the world by this desc...
Summit Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes. Jeff Smoot. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 80439, 1992. 182 pages. 62 black-and-white photos, 14 peak sketches. 46 line maps. $12.95.This volume is a handy guide for all who aspire to scrambling up th...
Before our attempt on Goromity (as reported elsewhere in this section), Hitoshi Onodera and I traveled to Kangding, en route to the Gongkala Shan, where we had a permit from the Sichuan Mountaineering Association for Kawarani (I, 5,992m; II ...
Mt. Edwards, North Face, Chaos Theory. On previous trips in previous years, I often found myself drooling hopelessly as I looked up at a very elegant unclimbed line of mixed rock and ice on the north face of Mt. Edwards. This year, because of an e...
Fisher Towers, Various ascents. The Minotaur saw a first ascent (IV 5.9+ C2) by Lisa Raleigh and Duane Raleigh in five-and-a-half hours with no pitons and only two bolts. The route begins just right of Ancient Art and climbs the formation in seven...
DeborahBrian Okonek, Mountaineering Club of AlaskaWHEN Fred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, and Henry Meybohm stepped onto the summit of Deborah twenty-one years ago for a first ascent, they came to the “unanimous conclusion that Deborah was the most sen...
Everest, Kangshung Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Canadian Barry Blanchard, Americans Steve Swenson, Sandy Pitman (f), Alex Lowe and me as leader, and Sherpa climbers Wongchu, Kaji, Pinzo and Nawang. Lowe, Kaji, Pinzo and I had all c...
ELIZABETH LARNED MacCARTHY1877 - 1944On February 10, 1944, when we were in the woods with her devoted dogs enjoying the morning sunshine and the scent of the forest at Camden, S. C., Elizabeth Larned MacCarthy suddenly passed through the veil that...
Lover's Leap Access Report. Significant changes have taken place at the Lover’s Leap climbing area. Local property owners, the U.S. Forest Service, and climbers working together have presently resolved their conflicts and pro vided solutions to th...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, OVERCONFIDENCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanDave and I (Rob) had been planning to climb the Nose of El Cap (34 pitches, Grade VI, 5.11, A2) for the past year. Together we had 24 ...
Mount Redoubt, Mount Spickard, Mad Eagle Peak, North Cascades. On the north side of Mount Redoubt opposite the northeast-face route is a prominent Y-shaped couloir. On July 2 Bruce Anderson and I ascended the Depot Glacier, then crossed the bergsc...
Lhotse, 1955NORMAN G. DYHRENFURTHWHEN leaving Mount Everest in December of 1952 I hardly dared hope that some day I would be able to return to Solo Khumbu. My original plan was to visit that area in the Fall of 1954 for some "minor” ascents, but p...
Mount Fernow, North Face Variation. At the end of September Dave Beck- stead, Mark Hutson, and I made a direct finish to the old north-face route, climbing to the top of the ice finger, then taking a snow and ice gully, followed by a short rock wa...
FALLING ICE, POOR POSITIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, Cassin RidgeAt 2105 on June 16, Jason Kraus (30), a member of the Cold and Stinky Expedition, requested evacuation from the base of the Cassin Ridge on Denali. Kraus had sustained an injury to his ...
Waddington Range, Various Activity. This was an interesting year, with a long, dry, hot introduction to the season putting the glaciers into very difficult conditions for travel, but shaping up the mountains (especially the rock lines) better than...
The Northwest Ridge of K2James WickwireON the Pakistani-Chinese border, K2 rises as a rocky, isolated pyramid to 28,741 feet*, a scant two rope- lengths below the height of Everest. Although K2 is not as frequented by mountaineers as its higher ne...
Nenana Spire, Midget Porn. In early March, Tim Cosik had a Swedish lady he had just met (who would soon become his pregnant wife) drop us at an obscure Fairbanks hangar. We knew we were in for an adventure when a kid met us at the door with a roll...
West Witches’ Tit, south face, Jack Hicks Memorial Route; and Cat’s Ears Spire, Least Snowed-up Route. From May 16 to June 5 Guy Edwards and I visited the Devil’s Thumb region of the Stikine Icecap in southeast Alaska and northwest British Columbi...