Qionglai Range, Various Ascents. In late August, 1997,I returned to the Siguniang Shan area of the Qionglai Range, on the eastern edge of the Tibetan Plateau. I had previously visited and climbed in this area (see 1996 AAJ, p. 310). Accompanied by...
Best of Boulder Climbs. Richard Rossiter. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO, 1992. 180 pages, topos and black-and-white photos. $14.95.Who decided which are the best of Boulder climbs? Why, the best Boulder climbers, of course. Knowing that any list...
Roaring Lion Canyon, New Routes. Many routes have recently been established in this little known canyon, primarily on the Thin Red Line Buttress. This is the first major tower seen after crossing the river and is about a mile and a half in. Upon s...
FALL ON SNOW, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESOregon, Three-Fingered Jack, South RidgeOn October 26, Karl Iwen (20s) fell to his death while descending Three-Fingered Jack.As he was unfamiliar with the mountain, K...
Shisha Pangma, Southwest Face Attempt. Catherine Destivelle and I left Kathmandu on August 24 and reached Nyalam the next day. We stayed there three days for acclimatization and to scout the route to the face. On August 29 and 30, we moved up to B...
Kolana Dome, West Face, Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. John Liebeskind and I climbed the huge right-facing dihedral splitting the center of the west face. We entered low in the crack system by traversing left on scree ledges. After we passed two large le...
TABLE IReported Mountaineering Accidents.YearNumber of Accidents ReportedU.S.A. - CAN.Total Number of Persons InvolvedU.S.A. - CAN.Injured U.S.A. - CAN.Killed U.S.A. - CAN.195114211031952293217131953242714121954314131819553439291319564671511819574...
Mount Ratnachuli, First Ascent. The first mountaineers ever to set foot on Mount Ratnachuli were this autumn's expedition from Japan’s Shinshu University and the Nepalese Police Mountaineering Foundation. Their 7035-meter peak stands on Nepal’s bo...
Mount Russell, West Face. Alan Kouzmanoff and I climbed a new route on this face in June. It starts in a rotten, right-slanting crack about 40 feet right of the Rowell-Jones route, and climbs over two overhangs with a short hand traverse in betwee...
Colorado, Twin Owls. On 11 August Tom Fender and Stan Shepard were attempting a new climb on the South wall to the left of the chimney. On Twin Owls Shepard had nailed up a system of overhanging rotten cracks to a crumbly groove when he decided to...
Lone Pine Peak, The Streets of the Mountains. IV 5.10 A0. First ascent September 4-6, by Miguel Carmona and Joe LeMay. This route is on the far western side of the south face of Lone Pine Peak. Ascend the South Gully a short distance, then scrambl...
Mt. Thor, Midgard Serpent, Solo Ascent. In July and August, the young big wall climber Jason “Singer” Smith made a solo second ascent of Midgard Serpent (VI 5.9 A5, 3,600') on the west face of Mt. Thor. An account of his climb appears earlier in t...
Watkins Bjerge, First Ascents. After they were held up for seven days in Iceland, improved weather in Greenland allowed a British group to fly into the Watkins Bjerge. Undeterred by more poor weather, this group made first ascents of four of the r...
North Central Section. The North Central Section of the AAC continues to make progress toward having more communication, camaraderie, and interaction within the Club. Major projects for 2005 included further work developing a Section web site, cle...
STEVEN DONALD FREDERICK UNTCH1956-1994My friend Steve Untch was a big man with a big smile and a big heart. He cut a wide path wherever he went, infecting all whom he touched with his positive outlook on life. This unassuming man had the ability t...
Ama Dablam, East Ridge. Celebrating the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Club Alpin Belge, a joint Belgian-Swiss expedition climbed the previously unascended east ridge of Ama Dablam. Base Camp was at 17,225 feet. Camp I was on the glacier...
Eclipse Glacier, ascents. Glenn Wilks (U.K.) and Geoff Hornby (U.K.) flew into the Eclipse Glacier for 10 days and made ascents of peaks near Mt. Badham. On June 1 they made the first ascent of Peak 3,390m, via its southeast ridge, and climbed a n...
Sierra Club of California. Yosemite Valley was the scene of what was certainly the outstanding rock climb of 1958. On November 12 Warren Harding, George Whitmore, and Wayne Merry completed the longest tension climb of all time by scaling the verti...
On May 2, John Frieh and I climbed a new variation on the southeast face of Mt. Bradley, connecting the first third of Season of the Sun (Ichimura-Sato-Yamada, 2007) with the upper section of the East Buttress (Jochler-Orgler, 1987). The line depa...
Kangchungtse (Makalu II). A French expedition climbed the normal route, the west face to the south ridge, with four high camps. On April 22 leader Richard Jessup, Pierre de Montgolfier and Jean-François Porret reached the summit (7678 meters, 25,1...