Rignys Bjerg area, various first ascents. A group consisting of Norman Vernon (co-leader), Robert MacCallum, Dave Rothery, Graham Poole, Sandy Gregson, and myself (co-leader) flew on 30 June from Isafjördur, Iceland to Constable Pynt, Northeast Gr...
Baffin Island. In late June final preparations for our trip were made at the home of Dr. Pat Baird in Montreal, Canada. By early July we had flown to the Eskimo village of Pangnirtung on the Cumberland Peninsula of Baffin Island. Pack ice, left by...
Inspired by pictures from an expedition in 2007 led by Dick Griffiths and reported in AAJ 2008, four of us from the Netherlands, supported by the Dutch Alpine Club, visited Southeast Ren Land from August 8-30, operating from a base camp at the hea...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. Founded in 1964 in Phoenix, the Arizona Mountaineering Club enjoyed another successful year in 1995. Membership approached 340. Many members climbed and trekked in various parts of the world. Several joined a high alti...
FROSTBITE—INADEQUATE CLOTHINGAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 2nd, guided expedition AMS-5-Wilkinson departed the 17,200- foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley for the summit at 0600. This group of six, including two guides,...
EDWARD A. LANE 1935-1969The Logan Expedition was a dream come true for Ed Lane. It meant the completion of three peaks, the most difficult, high and largest mountain massif in North America. His Logan Traverse would have covered the entire Logan M...
Agdlerussakasit east face, Maujit Qoqarsassia (1,560 m) first ascent and new route. The members of our expedition were Jesus Bosque (cameraman), Cecilia Buil (Spain), Gorka Ferro (kayaker), and Roberta Nunez (Brazil). From Nanortalik we paddled in...
The Vilcabamba and SalcantayIan Harverson‡, Australian Andean Expedition, 1973, and MichaelG. Andrews, New Zealand Apline ClubThe Pumasillo GroupTHE Australian Andean Expedition 1973 entered the Pumasillo basin on June 1 via Cuzco and Santa Teresa...
McKinley West Buttress Variant. On June 11, Bruce Normand and I climbed a new variant on the right side of the southwest face of the Direct West Buttress. It involved twenty belayed pitches of water ice of Alpine Grade III. We completed the climb ...
In the second half of May, a Tangent expedition led by Ian Barker and Mark Basey-Fisher (U.K.), with Warren Allen, Julian Cooper, Mark Morrison, Sebastian Sloane (all U.K.), Andrey Pogudin (Russia), and I made the first ascent of a peak in the Gun...
Cook & Peary: The Polar Controversy Resolved. Robert M. Bryce. Stackpole: Mechanicsburg, PA 1997. 1133 pages. $50.The literature of polar exploration, unlike that of climbing, is known for its historical tomes. Yet Robert M. Bryce’s Cook &...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, FAILURE TO TEST CONDITIONS, RELYING ON OTHERSAlaska, Delta Range, Castner GlacierIn the early afternoon on March 1, a group of 17 people (15 class members, co-leader Ty Humphrey, and I) arrived on skis and snowshoes in an...
Annapurna III Attempt. Four Koreans led by Ko Kwang-Soo tried to climb the southwest face of Annapurna III. Kyoung Joo-Choi and Byung Hyun-So reached 6650 meters on October 28. The climb was then abandoned because someone had stolen much of their ...
Mount Hale Pinnacles and Mount Hale, East Face. On the ridge of Mount Hale that extends toward Mount Whitney, before ending above Arctic Lake, there are two very prominent towers separated by a gap of 100 feet. I climbed them in June with a belay ...
DAVID JONATHAN BERNAYS1932-1980David J. Bernays was born in 1932 in New York City and died suddenly of a heart attack on July 6, 1980. Dave, who as a young man got his beginning as a mountaineer on the hills and rock faces of the Adirondacks in th...
A hotel for skiers, Jim Creek Lodge, has been opened at West Portal, Colorado, on the western slope of the Continental Divide. It is reached in two and one-half hours from Denver by the Moffat Tunnel. The hotel, elevation 9,000 ft., stands at the ...
JOHN R. HUDSON 1946-1969I first got to know Hudson driving across the country in June, 1966. He had hitchhiked to my place with his entire gear in his Kelty, and we went West as fast as we could in a doubtful auto – we had to get to Yosemite befor...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE BELAY Washington, Mount Baker, North RidgeElain Fu (33) and I (Stephen Ramsey, 33) were simul-climbing up the ice cliff on the North Ridge of Mount Baker. I was in the lead. At 6:30 a.m., I reached a ...
GUNNAR NASLUND 1950-1982 On August 4, 1982, Gunnar Naslund, a four-year member of the American Alpine Club, lost his life when he was struck by a collapsing cornice as he led a rope attempting the first ascent of Needle Mountain in Alaska’s remo...
Red Sea Mountains, an historical overview and recent first ascents. Following the discovery of an old book by G.W. Murray entitled Dare Me To The Desert (1967), in which the author describes his explorations of Egypt’s Red Sea Mountains in the 192...