Broad Peak, west face; Gasherbrum I, southwest face. Viktor Afanasiev and Valery Babanov completed an alpine- style new route on the central buttress of 8,047m Broad Peak’s west face (3,000m, ED VI WI5 M6 90°). They joined the west ridge route at ...
The Needles, Voodoo Dome, White Punks on Dope. On the left of the south side of Voodoo Dome, the major expanse of rock meets a jumbled, somewhat vegetated area and forms a large, left-facing dihedral/ chimney several hundred feet high. Around the ...
ROCKFALL, LATE STARTAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LefroyA party of two left Abbot Pass hut at 0900, August 14, 1994, to climb the snow and ice gullies of the standard West Face route on Mt. Lefroy (3423 meters). Partway up the route, a large roc...
Namcha Barwa Attempt and Tragedy. What is doubtless the highest unclimbed main peak in the world, Namcha Barwa (7782 meters, 25,520 feet) was attempted by a joint Japanese-Chinese expedition from the Japanese Alpine Club and the Chinese Mountainee...
Mount Logan. From June 13 to June 29 Ron Johnson, Don Mech, Len Waller, Lee West, Hal Williams and I made an ascent of Mount Logan. Jack Wilson flew the party from Gulkana Airfield in Alaska via May Creek to near Base Camp at 8950 feet on the Quin...
Cerro Lavadero, First Ascent, and Subsidiary Summits. On December 12, 1994, two groups (Italians Toni Mastellano, Franco Cremonese and two companions, Argentines Antonio Beorchia Nigris, Edgardo Yacante, Luis Gómez Crovetto, Gringo Aviedo, Pedro R...
“Soarks,” Flatirons. Pat Ament and I climbed a new route on the ridge just south of the Third Flatiron. It is an overhanging pinnacle surrounded at the base by poison ivy. The climb was done on July 4 and originally called “Sparks.” A report in Mo...
Antizana Sur. Two Ecuadorians, Rómulo Pazmino and Leonardo Droira, and I made the first ascent of Antizana Sur (18,275 feet) in the Cordillera Oriental. We attempted the peak three times, reaching on the second attempt a point 100 feet below the s...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO ICE AXE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet CanyonOn June 11, 1994, Artur Kruk (31) and Iri Krol (33) were descending steep snow near Spalding Falls when Krol slipped and fell app...
Mount Moran, Northwest Ridge. This ridge lies just west of the Triple Glacier Route and was first climbed on July 17, 1977 by Paul Horton and Lew Hitchner. Although it is a major feature of the mountain, the climbing was not difficult and the rock...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. The club conducted a greater than usual number of local outings during the year. In addition, members climbed almost every weekend throughout the year on unscheduled trips, and traveled as far as Seneca Rock, West Virg...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWest Virginia, Seneca Rocks, PruneJohn Markwell, owner of the Gendarme Climbing Shop at Seneca Rocks, reported that there had only been one severe accident there this year. On the second pi...
Tuttle Creek Obelisk, School’s Out. In June Brent Norum and I established the second route on this striking pillar. Starting a short distance right of the Rowell-Jones route, ascend a right-slanting ramp for 200 feet to the base of a large corner....
Bradford on Mt. Fairweathcr, by Bradford Washburn. Putnam’s, 1930. Pp. ix, 127; 31 photos, 3 sketch maps. $1.75.This book for boys, detailing the experiences of a band of youthful adventurers on the skirts of Mt. Fairweather, may be noticed here o...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF KNOT Colorado, Lover’s LeapPam Spence (31), Steve Locatelli and Magda King were scouting a technical route on Lover’s Leap on August 27. All three were experienced and all had climbed it before. They were trying new routes...
Keele Peak, Hess Mountains. This mountain is located on the Yukon- North West Territories border. George Denton and I ascended Keele by a rib in its west face on July 2.Monty Alford
Dhaulagiri II. A South Korean expedition of five climbers reconnoitered Dhaulagiri II but did not get far.
Steamboat Rock, Southeast Face, Dinosaur National Monument. Mike Couvington, Brian Marts and I made the first ascent in September. The route goes up the left side of the face, where it overhangs throughout its 700 feet. The first two leads were al...
Disciplinary Measures Taken by the Nepalese Government. Four expeditions have been disciplined by the Nepalese government for having made illegal climbs. These were the Poles for having climbed the middle peak of Kanchenjunga, the Spaniards who ha...
Torres Del Paine, Various Ascents. Andy McAuley of Australia and Carsten Birckhahn of Germany climbed in a climbing area called Grupo la Paz, four spectacular towers without names or topos, four hours from Puerto Natales by boat on the shore of Ca...