Peaks Above the Southern Patagonian Icecap. In February we went to Lago Dickson, north of the Paine group. We camped in the highest tongue of bush by an ice puddle on the Glaciar Dickson. In fine weather we did a day trip onto the icecap via a sad...
FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE–UNABLE TO CLIP CARABINERCalifornia, Pinnacles National MonumentThe accident happened on September 25 at the Pinnacles Monument around noon. My climbing partner, Jamey Stowell, and I were on our fourth climb of the day, and cl...
Bhagirathi IIISilvo Karo, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia Translated by Maja KošakASIAN HEAT and time constraints encourage Janez Jeglic, Dr. Mojca Zajc and me, together with our liaison officer Hemant Bohr, to leave New Delhi on the second ...
Ejnar Mikkelsen Fjeld, Watkins Mountains, East Greenland. A Scottish group, Andrew Ross, Graham Williams, Nigel Robinson and Peter Lewis, finally achieved what had been known to be a most difficult feat in approaching and climbing what was probabl...
Witch Doctor Wall, Voodoo Wall and Solaris. The summer saw two aid climbs put up on Exfoliation Dome’s 1,100' Witch Doctor Wall in the Darrington area. The Voodoo Wall (IV 5.10 A2), established by David Burdick and Michael Swan- icke, starts on st...
AVALANCHE, STRANDEDYukon Territory, Mount Logan, East RidgeOn July 1, 1981, a radio message was received from a party of four climbers (ages 30–34) attempting the east ridge of Mount Logan. They had lost most of their gear in a small avalanche. Th...
RESPIRATORY DISTRESSAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 26, the Casade-Dacks Expedition of Ron Fridell (50), Sid Perkins, and Don Andrews (43) flew to the Kahiltna Glacier to begin their climb of the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. Over t...
Early Visits to Mount Sir AlexanderFrederick K. VreelandTHE year 1929 witnessed the first ascent of the most northerly outpost of the higher Canadian Rockies. The conquerors of the peak are Messrs. A. J. Gilmour and N. D. Waffl and Miss Helen I. B...
Cordilleras Quimsa Cruz, Various Activity. In July, after a visit to the Cordillera Apolobamba, I joined Scotsman Russell Small and Australian Sam Maffett in La Paz for a trip to the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. We took public buses to the village of R...
Koa Rong Valley, Lahul, 1977. An expedition from the Mazovia district of Poland climbed in the Koa Rong valley. They were led by Andrzej Zboinski. They approached via Darcha, which is some six miles northwest of the mouth of the valley. The approa...
Fluted Peak, Ascent. K. P. Mitra led a ten-member expedition from Bengal, India, to Fluted Peak (6122 m), climbing it on July 12. This is a well-known peak on the Losar nala, Spiti. The summitters were: Uttam Das, Ajit Biswas, Ashok Adhikari, Nare...
Gunsight Peaks Traverse, Gunrunner. Tales of white granite and striking crack systems on the Gunsight Peaks have intrigued climbers for years, but the two-day approach and notoriously unstable weather have kept the number of actual visits low. On ...
Middle Troll, south face; The Throne, Smaug’s Hoard. Eric Sullivan and I flew to Pika Glacier on August 9 and glassed The Throne’s south face. We skied to the base and found a start for our line: a left-facing, right-leaning dihedral system toward...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. During the past year considerable effort was spent improving the club’s safety program. We are constantly modifying this program to make it more effective and more easily understood. Climbing in our local practice area...
Teton Tales and Other Petzoldt Anecdotes. Paul K. Petzoldt, with Kevin Cassidy. ICS Books, Merrillville, Indiana, 1995. 214 pages, black-and-white photos. $14.95.This is oral history, transcribed; and as the title implies it has a narrow focus tha...
Unnamed spire, attempt. Bryan Palminiter and I attempted a new line on an unnamed spire to the right of the Lotus Flower Tower in August. Since our return, we have learned that the high point of our attempt came within 50 feet of intersecting a Be...
Late last summer Lisa Rand and I headed up from the old mine ruins in Pine Creek to the high alpine of Royce Lakes basin. The hike starts out bizarre: in a mile or so you look down on what looks like a Lord of the Rings movie set, with bom...
Remillard Peak Area, Northern Selkirks. Though disappointed to discover that another group had spent a week in 1971 in this previously undisturbed area, we decided to fly in during the first week of August to try the interesting, still unclimbed p...
Mt. Zeus, Northwest Ridge. The many rock towers and pinnacles in the Pantheon Range often get overlooked in favor of the better-known peaks around Mt. Waddington, just south. The Pantheons have seen only a handful of visits from technical climbers...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Wyoming, TetonsOn August 27, Steve Gorham (25), Paul Wade (24), and Kevin Patno (25) were climbing “The Snaz” when Patno, who was leading the pitch above the crux, broke off a large rock and fell. Gorham was bel...