Monja Chica, Altar Group. Members of the Mountain Club of the Polytechnical School of the Ecuadorian army made the second ascent of Monja Chica (5120 meters, 16,798 feet), a peak located in the eastern end of the Altar massif. On January 1, 1981, ...
Mount Fairweather from Glacier Bay. On April 8, Mark Jefferson and I left Gustavus in two double kayaks with gear and supplies for an ascent of Mount Fairweather. We paddled 60 miles up Glacier Bay to its northwest terminus at Tarr Inlet. Tarr Inl...
Forel, Direct South Face and Nine First Ascents, East Greenland. The expedition of the Goslar-Westharz section of the German Alpine Club was composed of Theo Hilz, Wilhelm Huber, Klaus Suess and me as leader. We were in the field from June 19 to J...
Leaning Tower, West Face. On May 16 Jason Pickles and I climbed the West Face of the Leaning Tower free except for the initial insanely steep bolt ladder. Royal Robbins called the Tower, first climbed by Warren Harding in 1961 with heavy use of bo...
Mount Hunter, North Face. Benoît Grison and I made a new route on the north face of Mount Hunter from June 24 to 29. On the first day we climbed the huge ice gully that cuts the left side of the face. It rises precipitously in a series of vertical...
Srikanta. A ten-man team led by Milan Sen Gupta from Asanol climbed Srikanta (20,120 feet) on May 16. Details are not known.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Srikanta, All-Women’s Ascent. A 12-members all-women’s expedition from Uttarkashi, India, led by Chandra Prabha Aitwal, approached Srikanta (6133m) in September, establishing base camp at 4000 meters ahead of Jangla in the Dudu Bamak. After settin...
St. Elias. Alaskans Bob Antonson, Dave Blanchet, Ray Koleser and Todd Miner climbed St. Elias by the south ridge, the route first climbed by the Harvard group in 1946. They believe that this was the 15th ascent of the mountain.
California, Yosemite National Park, Middle Cathedral Rock. On 14 May Eric Beck (21) and Tom Frost were ascending the direct north buttress (Chouinard roper route) of Middle Cathedral Rock. On the fifth pitch Beck led up 5th class for 25 feet placi...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, PITON FAILURECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 3, 1983, John Kaput (31) fell while climbing on Commissioner’s Buttress, just north of Ranger Rock.Kaput was leading the climb and his partner, Scott Sleeper, was b...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. Climbing activity continues to intensify in the Midwest, and the club has adapted to this increased interest with more scheduled outings at Devils Lake, Wisconsin, and Mississippi Palisades at Savanna, Illinois. The mo...
Pico Poincenot, FitzRoy Group, Patagonia. The University of Dublin Expedition succeeded in climbing the Pico Poincenot (9961 feet), the sheer granite tower which spears the sky just west of FitzRoy. Led by Frank Cochrane, composed of the Irishmen ...
Aguja Saint Exupery, South Face, Petit Prince, Variation and South Face, Attempt. Etienne Fine and Philippe Driel (France) completed the third ascent of Petit Prince between January 12-25, 2000. They fixed ropes on the lower half of the face and t...
MISSING CLIMBERS—CAUSE UNKNOWN British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonOn August 17, 1984, Nicholas Vanderbilt (25) and Francis Gledhill (29) ascended the lower slopes of Mt. Robson to the hut 1500 meters above Killey Lake on the southwest ...
Panwali Doar Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Ryoji Ide, Tetsuo Mochizuki, Haruo Omori, Kenichi Takahashi and me as leader. We attempted the south ridge of Panwali Doar (21,854 feet), which lies just south of Nanda Devi. We climbed from May...
University of Wyoming Outing Club. The Club began 1963 with a trip to Mexico, where ascents of Orizaba and Popocatepetl were made. During January and February cross-country skiing in the Snowy Range and the Tetons was the Club’s major activity. Th...
Shivling Tragedy. After delays, Richard Cox and I reached Gangotri on August 31. The walk-in with seven porters to Base Camp at 14,600 feet at Tapovan was from September 1 to 3. We acclimatized until September 17. Advance Base Camp was established...
El Segundo Buttress, South Face. The first ascent of this striking buttress above Whitney Portal was made March 21 by Michael Heath and me. The route ascends a crack system past a prominent overhang, then continues up incipient cracks on the nose....
Coopers Creek to Langtang II by Peter Taylor. Adelaide, Australia: Rigby Limited, 1964. 239 pages, 38 photographs.Too often we read about highly organized expeditions that conquer Himalayan peaks by the sheer weight of logistical support. In Peter...
Cerro Torre, Maestri Route. Italians Elio Orlandi and Livio Rigotti climbed the Maestri route on Cerro Torre. They reached the summit, in two days, alpine- style, on December 14 and spent a third on the descent. They had arrived in Argentina on No...