This is the twentieth report of the Safety Committee and the seventh in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. Data from such accidents that occurred in former years and not previously reported have been incorporated in the statistical tables...
Where in Alaska would two Swiss go to climb but Little Switzerland? On May 16 Lucas Iten and I landed on the Pika Glacier and quickly got to work. Most of the rock was still covered in snow, but we warmed up by repeating The Lost Marsupials (10 ...
Mount Stone, Conrad Group. This attractive 9990-foot snow peak southwest of Mount Conrad, previously unclimbed, was the goal of our group from the Simian Climbing Club (Laura Jasch, Bill Knowler, Gretchen Schoenbohm, and Curt Wagner). From Boulder...
STRANDED, PARTY SEPARATED, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Yoho National Park, Lake O'Hara, Mount BiddleOn August 8, a party of six climbers headed to the West Ridge of Mount Biddle, a 5.4 alpine rock route on the Lake O’Hara area of Yoho National Park. ...
Bugaboo Provincial Park Mountaineering summary and statistics. The 2001 Bugaboo season was blessed with good weather but not many new routes. Rather, a number of older classics were dusted off. Early July saw an attempt at the completion of an aid...
PATRICK DAVID CHAMAY1937-1968Patrick D. Chamay became ill while on a climb of Mount Rainier and died at 13,000 feet on Liberty Ridge. Symptoms indicated his illness was pulmonary edema.Born in France, Pat lived most of his life in the United State...
ROBERT LYON SPURR 1937 - 1995My father, Robert Lyon Spurr, Alaskan mountaineer and mountain runner, was killed on North Maroon Peak outside Aspen, Colorado, on August 11. He apparently lost his footing shortly after beginning his descent and fell ...
United States: Once again there were too many reports of rappel errors (ten) and lowering errors (five). The tragedy of the year was the loss of Todd Skinner, who fell to his death after his harness loop parted while he was rappelling in Yosemite ...
The discerning reader will note that relatively little information on 8000-meter peaks is recorded in the 1999 volume. This is not indicative of a fall-off in the amount of activity on the world’s highest mountains; as with other disciplines of cl...
Mountaineers. The year 1970 was a good one for the Seattle Mountaineers’ Climbing Program. Favorable weather provided a high percentage of climbs successfully completed; enthusiasm of students and instructors alike resulted in a high number of gra...
Mt. Ida and Other ClimbsFREDERICK L. DUNNA history of the northernmost Canadian Rockies, the mountains of the Mt. Ida – Mt. Sir Alexander area, should start well before 1875, for the Cree Indians had recognized the big mountain, Sir Alexander, for...
EDWARD O. NESTER 1938-1978 On a survey of an elegant route on Mount Austerity in the Northern Selkirks of British Columbia, Ed Nester died when a large boulder used for a rappel came loose (a boulder used by many of us over the years, so promine...
Rocky Mountains, by Frank S. Smythe. 4to., 149 pp., 64 photographic plates, 16 in color. London, 1948: A. & C. Black. Price, 30/-.Mr. Smythe has, I think, produced 24 books about mountains and climbing in the last 19 years, including eight qua...
Tornarssuk Island, various ascents. On July 19 Dan O’Brien, Marylise Dufaux, Carl Pulley, Dave Whit- tingham, and I left the U.K. on a multi-stage journey to Tornarssuk Island, near Cape Farewell. Having previously visited Pamiagdluk Island (AAJ 2...
Coast Range. In addition to making two brilliant new routes on Mt. Waddington in the summer of 1950, the Oscar Cook- Richard Houston Sierra Club party made a number of other important ascents in this area. On July 23rd Dunmire, Wilson and Cook, wi...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Section members were active in meetings held by the National Park Service prior to the complete revision of climbing regulations in Mount Rainier National Park by park superintendent John Townsley. The regulations now spec...
First Ascent of the Titcomb NeedlesOrrin H. BonneyIN the western part of Wyoming, almost midway between theN. and S. boundary lines of the state, lies one of the most spectacular alpine wonderlands of the United States—the Wind River Range.In this...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE BELAY Oregon, Mount Hood, Castle CragsOn April 3, Doug Adair (50) and Debra Marsh (47) attempted to climb a variation on Castle Crags, a steep buttress separating the south and west sides of Mount Ho...
Sudarshan. An expedition of the Gangotri Exploration Committee led by Biren Sarkar set up Base Camp at 15,575 feet near the Raktvarn Glacier on September 12, Camp I at 18,500 feet on the 19th and Camp II at 20,000 feet on the 24th. Two unnamed pea...
MAYNARD COHICK 1938-1979Maynard Cohick lost his life September 19, 1979, on Annapurna I in an avalanche that claimed the lives of two other climbing members of the party.Maynard, 41 years old, was born in Lock Haven, Pennsylvania and led a full an...