Jannu (Kumbhakarna), east face attempt and history. Jannu, also known as Kumbhakarna, not far from Kangchenjunga, has a forbiddingly precipitous east face, which Slovenians seem to have become obsessively determined to scale. Its main summit is 7,...
A Survey of the Ghondokoro and Chogolisa Glacier Area in the Karakoram RangeJohn F. NoxonA mong several objectives of the 1955 Harvard Karakoram Expedition was that of exploring and possibly mapping two glacier systems, the Ghondokoro and Chogolis...
Saskatchewan Glacier. During the summer of 1942, U. S. Army training and equipment-testing forces constructed a road from the Lake Louise-Jasper highway to the tongue of the Saskatchewan Glacier, thence up the glacier to the head of Cattleguard Va...
Canada: I would like to start by thanking Geoff Powter for compiling the Canadian incidents for the 1998 edition. He took this project on in addition to his good work in editing the Canadian Alpine Journal. There were fewer accidents in 1998 than ...
A Look into the Future, Lhotse’s South FaceTomo Cesen, Planinska Zveza Slovenje, Yugoslavia Translated by Maja KošakWHEN I GOT HOME after last year’s climb of Kumbhakarna’s north face, the mountaineering press was highly complimentary, calling the...
Nampai Gosum I, south summit. The Japan Workers Alpine Federation and the Nepal Mountaineering Association attempted to make the first ascent of Nampai Gosum. The joint expedition was organized to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the start of d...
LOSS OF CONTROL, INVOLUNTARY GLISSADE—Washington, Big Four Mountain. I was the leader on the July 9 climb which included six other climbers, three of whom were experienced and three of whom were basic students in the 1977 Everett Basic Climbing co...
Alpine Ascents in the American Press, 1785-1897J. Monroe ThoringtonAlpine historians have taken little note of the fact that, from the end of the eighteenth century, when Mont Blanc became news, the American press was alert to European mountaineer...
1951-101959-0420112011USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock4735528103Snow246135549Ice282154River1530Unknown22100Ascent or DescentAscent3790587104Descent112337149Unknown256131Other N.B.1202Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock374529083Slip on snow or ice10712072...
Attempts on the N. Face of Mt. Baring. Seen in profile from the Stevens Pass Highway E. of Startup, the N. Face of Mt. Baring looks like an enormous overhang. It rises 3800 ft. above Barclay Lake, the starting point for the climb. Dick Burge and I...
The Incredible Hulk, West Face. Joe Kiskis, Bob Grow, and I converged once again on Twin Lakes to approach a climb at the head of Little Slide Canyon opposite the pinnacles that had diverted us on our first trip. We approached the Incredible Hulk ...
The Blockhouse, West Face. In early August Pat McNerthney and I climbed a route on this face in the Cashmere Crags. The route began on the left, climbed to a ledge with a tree, moved up and right, finishing up and left. (NCCS III, 5.10.) In late A...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. In 1989 the club fielded 72 outings including 53 climbing trips with climbs averaging a 5.7 rating. Seven of the outings were to adjacent states. Successful ascents were made of Pik Lenin in the Soviet Pamirs, Prusik P...
Explorers of the Infinite: The Secret Spiritual Lives of Extreme Athletes—and What They Reveal About Near-Death Experiences, Psychic Communication, and Touching the Beyond. Maria Coffey. New York: Jeremy P. Tarcher/Penguin, 2008. Hardcover 288 pag...
NEVADO CAYESH IS a pinnacle in the Peruvian Andes. The name itself is derived from the Quechua word caye, meaning “to call,” and indeed for me it did just that. Described by John Ricker as “possibly the most spectacular peak in the Cordillera Blan...
Manaslu, Ascent and Tragedy. Michael Zunk went to the 8163-meter summit of Manaslu on May 7 with teammates Joerg Bartock and Steffen Thomas as part of an 11-member German expedition led by Holger Kloss. On the descent, Zunk fell for unknown reason...
Rock Climbing in 1984John StannardIN retrospect the winter of 70-71 was a very desperate time for it was then that most climbers realized that rock climbing in this country was in a very bad way and liable to get much worse. For people accustomed ...
M. ALBERT LINTON1887-1966The Philadelphia group of the American Alpine Club lost one of its most distinguishd members with the death of M. Albert Linton on Monday, May 2, 1966 at his home in Moorestown, New Jersey at the age of 79.He was graduated...
In Brief: Notes from the Banff Mountain Book Festival 2004Twelve years ago North America launched its first mountain literature event: the Banff Mountain Book Festival. Each November the festival celebrates the world’s best mountain and adventure ...
STEVEN CRAIG RISSE1952-1993Seattle-area climber, Steven Craig Risse, with Mark Bebie and Thomas Waarsdorp, died in late March in an attempt to climb Slipstream, an ice route near the Columbia Icefields. The exact cause of their death is unknown.St...