FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK Labrador, Nain, Mount SophieOn August 10, 1988, at 1000, Yves (32) and Mike (45) were on the first pitch of an attempted first ascent on Mount Sophie. Yves is an experienced climber, Mike less so. Yves, leading, put a #9...
Athabaska PassBradley B. Gilman(No ballad—no sonnet, but a very few brief lines* suggested by a trip up the Whirlpool River in July 1952.)High in the Canadian mountains lies a tiny lake,Nestled between two giant ice-clad guards;It hangs upon the h...
Overview and new routes. During 2004 there were significantly fewer climbers in Bolivia than in previous years. Political instability may have contributed, as in September 2003 many visitors were stranded in the town of Sorata, in the northern Cor...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. A Japanese expedition of five climbers led by Tadakiyo Sakahara made an attempt to climb the first-ascent route on the Rakhiot side of Nanga Parbat. After establishing Base Camp on June 28, they placed four more camps on the ...
Fast Ascents of the Nose, El Capitan. Nancy Feagin and Sue McDevitt climbed the Nose on El Capitan in 17 hours. They were the first female pair to make the climb in a single day. The mixed team of Lynn Hill and Hans Florine climbed the route in 8 ...
This is the forty-fourth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the thirteenth that has been done jointly by the American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: Several of the accidents in 1990 involved solo climbers, t...
Once Around EverestNed GilletteEVEREST, the “third pole”, is still the ultimate lodestone for most mountaineers. While climbers are seeking new ways to gain the summit, Jan Reynolds and I decided to put a different twist into our expedition to the...
Trono Blanco, Hoja de Rosa; Cuerno Norte, Dentelle de Roche; Cerro Cat- edral, Escoba de Dios, second ascent. In late February and March 2007 a team from the Equipe National de Jeunes Alpinistes (ENJA) visited the Valle del Frances in the heart of...
As with any expedition to a super-remote corner of the world, our expedition to Baffin Island forces us to keep the fear factor in check. This isn’t proving to be easy. Fear is an emotion that can all too often become all- consuming, coursing th...
Pt. 5919m and Pt. 5447m, First Ascents. Between May 18 and June 1, a British party explored the unclimbed Panpatia range of peaks to the south of Nilkanth. The range, known as the Vishnu Ghar (Vishnu’s Fortress), is approached by a two-day trek fr...
Mount Waddington from the North. From July 18 to August 3, Mike Warburton and I traversed the Coast Range from east to west via the Tiedemann and Franklin Glaciers and climbed the north ridge of Mount Waddington by a new route. We approached the r...
Eastern Zaalayskiy Range, Pik Alexander Gybaev. On July 24, 2008, a group of climbers associated with the Moscow Aviation Institute made the first ascent of Pik 5,368m in the Eastern Zaalayskiy Range. This peak is the highest point of a sub-range ...
Changtse. We were R. Turner, G. Nash, D. Hunter, C. Gordon, J. Smart and I as leader. We established Base Camp at 5100 meters on September 5. Camps I and II were at the traditional sites on the East Rongbuk Glacier at 5400 and 5800 meters. Advance...
A New Season In YosemiteThe Big Walls, Then And NowBy Ryan and Tom FrostRyanInever knew my father.Now that I’ve grabbed you with that shameless headline, let me qualify it. My father is Tom Frost, but when I was young, that meant nothing to me. He...
Lady Momo. Outer Sognefjord and Hoyanger provide a spectacular destination for ice climbing (Sognefjord is the largest fjord in Norway). In some winters, when the ice conditions are good, you can climb with a view over the open sea. There is a 600...
Chaudhara. On June 8, leader S.N. Dhar, Rabin Paul and Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa reached the summit of Chaudhara (6510 meters, 21,360 feet). This was probably the second ascent. We had set up three higher camps. We climbed the west face. The other mem...
FALLING ROCK-DISLODGED BY CLIMBER, OFF ROUTE, BENIGHTED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount OwenOn August 29 at 1300, I received a report via park dispatch that a climbing party on Serendipity Arete (Mount Owen) reported ...
First Ascents in the Canadian Rockies. The crumbling limestone towers of Aiguille Peak (9840 feet) rise above the Banff-Jasper Highway, west of the Mistaya. Dr. J. Monroe Thorington visited the headwaters of North Ebon Creek, southwest of Aiguille...
Pik Sabor, new route attempt and repeat of north ridge. In 2003 the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne suffered a tragic loss when two well-known members, Antoine de Choudens and Philippe Renard, were killed while acclimatizing for an alpine style...
Cerro Kishtwar Attempt. Our team consisted of Andy Perkins, Brendan Murphy, David Cosford, Duncan Hornby, Jeremy Wilson, Kevin Dougherty and me. We managed the singular feat of never, before, during or after, actually being all in one place at the...