Training Mountain Troops in the Canadian RockiesRex GibsonAT the urgent request of the editor I am addressing myself for the third time to the task of writing an account of a most interesting military experiment, namely, the training of the Lovat ...
Robert Hicks Bates 1911–2007Bob Bates and I were close friends for more than 70 years. We began climbing together in the 1930s in the quarries around Boston and in Northern New England under the tutelage of some of the best climbers in the Northea...
This climb is a long, sketchy-but-easy, rockaineering ascent of Mt. Wilson. In mid-April, Oliver Deshler and I hiked two hours to the base, up a gully toward Resolution Arête and Inti Watana, past the Inti Watana ravine, and bushwacked anoth...
Mt. Odin, south couloir ski descent. On April 17 Jim Surette, Ken Sauls, and I left our camp at the Windy Lake shelter, with our sights set on skiing a giant couloir which splits the south face of Mt. Odin. It was first climbed in 1974 by a French...
FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount RainierOn Sunday morning, August 22, 1982, Daryl Beazer, Jim Ellefson and Philip Es- linger (20) left Paradise for Camp Muir and a summit climb the following day. On Monday morning early, they left Camp Muir en ...
Saser KangriJogindar Singh, Indo-Tibetan Border PoliceSASER KANGRI, 25,170 feet, meaning “Yellow Snow Mountain” * in Ladakhi, lies in the eastern Karakoram, guarded by three satellites, Saser II, III and IV (24,650, 24,560 and 24,330 feet). It has...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE–WEATHER, FAILURE TO TURN BACK, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, DEHYDRATION, HYPOTHERMIA, FROSTBITEWashington, Mount Baker, North RidgeJames Genone (25) and I began the approach to the North Ridge of Mount Baker on June 7...
Mt. Andromeda graces countless postcards and coffee-table books, and, more to the point, is the climbing centerpiece of the Columbia Icefields. Andromeda is a university of alpine climbing. Over the years, as I worked my way through its routes, st...
EXPOSURE, FATIGUE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn October 28, 1984, at 1025, David D. Dryden (19) reported that he and Thomas Apel (19) had been climbing Lost Arrow Spire, and due to unexpected fatigue, they had to ...
Buenos aires … the customs official, fat and red-faced, squinted at us through his spectacles; he looked down at the impressive sheaf of papers already plastered with official stamps. With a solemn nod, one more stamp, his initials, then a hand...
Everest, West Ridge Winter Attempt, 1984-5. [Details were missing when A.A.J., 1985 went to press.—Editor. ] An expedition of the French including leader Eric Dossin, Bernard Francou, Vincent Fine, Benoît Chamoux and Dr. Olivier Callande, Italian ...
FALL ON ICE–NO BELAYCalifornia, Sierra Nevada, Mount DanaOn October 12, my wife, Ann (28) and I, Pedro Frigola (28), attempted a one-day ascent of Mount Dana via Dana Couloir, a popular 1,000-foot ice climb rated Class 4 ice/snow. Dana Couloir lie...
Quest for Adventure. Chris Bonington. Hodder and Stoughton, London, 1981. 448 pages, black-and-white and color photographs, maps, glossary, bibliography. £19.95.Climbers will know something of Messner’s solo ascent of Nanga Parbat, just as sailors...
In 1994, we were lucky to be the first climbing team to climb in the Bader Valley. We were also the first climbing team to have to pay the new climbing fee to CONAF. We made the first ascent of the east face of Cuemos Norte by A Fist Full of Dolla...
FALL ON ROCK, BELAY DEVICE DIFFICULTIES Arizona, SedonaOn December 3,1986, Pete Sinfield (28) was leading the second pitch of “Chapel Ruin” (5.9), a left-facing dihedral protected by a thin crack to its right. The climb is in coarse-grained red sa...
The North American Andean Expedition 1959Leigh Ortenburger and David L. Dingman Part I: The Quebrada HondaAs late as 1952 it could be said that there were only two or three Americans who were at all acquainted with the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. T...
On July 15 Chris Chitty, Ari Menitove, and I departed for Nanortalik, taking a week to arrive from the States. From there we traveled by boat into the Tasermiut Fjord. The ride proved spectacular as we passed enormous sea cliffs and coastal peaks....
The Mountain World, edited by Marcel Kurz for the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Zurich. 220 pages, 64 illustrations, folding panorama, maps, and sketches. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1953. Price, $6.00.This is an important book, attra...
Considered in relation to the tens of thousands of climbs made by members and non-members of mountaineering organizations throughout North America, the number of mountaineering accidents each year is relatively small. The tragic fact remains, howe...
Mt. McKinley 1942Robert H. BatesBROKEN clouds shrouded the Alaska Range as our Air Transport Command plane touched down on the wet tarmac at Fairbanks with a cargo of equipment and the final members of the Alaska Test Expedition. At two in the mor...