FALL ON ROCK AND PITON FAILURE.—Alberta, Rocky Mountains Frontal Range, Yamnuska. Jim Bay and Dan Griffiths were climbing the Direttissi- ma on July 1, 1976, and Jim who was leading slipped and fell about 30 feet. His top protection, a soft iron p...
Americans back from Nepal. The Nepal expedition led by Dr. Dillon Ripley, of New Haven, and sponsored by Yale University, the National Geographic Society and the Smithsonian Institution, returned to this country with some fine long-range photograp...
Mountaineering Dogs. In addition to those already cited, (A. A. J. ii, 553; iii, 113), Mlle. C. E. Engel would add Lutine, the pet of Major Rogers (Le Major Roger et son barometre, A. A. J. ii, 542), who climbed the Chenalette in 1833 and, a few w...
Ranrapalca, North Face, Attempt. Andrej Markovic and Matej Zorko climbed a line (1000 meters, ED- V 85°) on Ranrapalca (6128 m), in 16 hours on June 6. Most of the route is on snow/ice with a few rock moves. They spent the night 30 meters below th...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The Mountaineering Club of Alaska had approximately 600 members in 2001. The club held monthly meetings that featured slide shows on Mt. Everest, exploring the Talkeetna Mountains, Wood Tikchik State Park, Mt. Blackb...
Mt. Helen. A new ascent by the steep N.W. ridge was made by Hans Kraus and Roger Wolcott on 4 August 1946, from a camp on Upper Titcomb Lake. This ridge seen in profile is high and precipitous. The route was reported as grade five in difficulty.A ...
American Safe Climbing Association, Activity Report. With a huge lift from the American Alpine Club, the American Safe Climbing Association started off its first year with a bang. During 1998, we reached our goal of replacing 1,000 bolts on popula...
OFF ROUTE, STRANDED, CLIMRING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT/CLOTHING, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle TetonOn the morning of September 29, Jenny Lake Subdistrict Ranger Mark Magnuson received a report of an overdue clim...
Catedral del Barroso. With a height of only 4510 meters (14,797 feet) Cerro Catedral del Barroso (“Cathedral of the Muddy River”) was among the finest peaks still unclimbed in central Chile. In an expedition lasting ten days, three climbers from R...
Carl Rungius, Big Game Painter, by William J. Schaldach. 4to., 120 pages, 10 plates in full color, 20 reproductions of pencil drawings, 8 reproductions of dry-points and several pages of photographs. Edition limited to 1250 numbered copies. New Yo...
West Twin Peak, Southeast Face, Titcomb Basin, Wind River Range. Jay Goodwin and I climbed what we believe is a new route on West Twin Peak. It is best seen in the early morning hours, when the sunlight isolates the prominent arête extending from ...
Barbarian (5,592m), Savage Sister (ca 16,390'), attempts. Josh Butson and I returned to the Changping Goa Valley in late September searching for another remote adventure. From the previous year’s experience, we knew our objective: the mountain loc...
Lobuje East, West Pillar. It was reported that Spaniards Manolo Miranda, Carlos Miguel and Eduard Sanchez followed a line to the left of one established in 1991 by American Eric Brand and Nepalese Norbu Sherpa on the lower half of the west pillar ...
Washington, Mount Rainier National Park. On 16 June Ted Miles was leading a guided summit party down after a successful climb of Mt. Rainier (14,410). While crossing a steep (60 degree) snowbridge at the 12,000 foot level, Miles fell 40 feet into ...
The RMNP summer alpine season was limited by exceptionally wet weather for Colorado. Although Tommy Caldwell and Topher Donahue made a first free ascent, at 5.13-, of Bilge (previously 5.8 A3) on the Ship’s Prow at 12,000', perhaps the only long n...
FROSTBITE, EXHAUSTION, BAD WEATHER, PARTY SEPARATED, FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 14, 1982, an 18-member guided party from the German Alpine Club (DAV) flew t...
Deer Ridge Buttress and Longs Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park. On August 10, Scott Hall and Skip Daniel ascended a new route on Deer Ridge Buttress (II, 5.8.). It begins 100 feet left of Rainbow Rock and follows a direct line up the slab from a...
Manda, Gangotri Region. Our team members were James Balog, leader, David Sweet, Mark Udall and I. With the help of 15 porters, on May 12 we established Base Camp on a small alp below the Manda Bamak (glacier) at 14,000 feet. After acclimatization ...
London Tower, Battle of Britain. In May, Tristan Gray-Le Coz and I, both of Ouray, Colorado, repeated several Ruth classics, established one new route, and had one new bail. While soloing Freezy Nuts to the summit of London Tower, I noticed a 10' ...
MACAULEY LETCHFIELD SMITH1905-1993Macauley Letchfield Smith was born in Louisville, Kentucky on March 10, 1905 and died on August 23, 1993. He graduated from Philips Academy Andover and received degrees from Yale and from the Harvard Law School. H...