Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Protection Pulled Out, No Hard Hat, California, Joshua Tree National Park, Spider Line

FALL ON ROCK–PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Joshua Tree National Park, Spider LineOn January 15, Daniel Scott (26) was climbing Spider Line (5.11c) when one his anchors pulled out causing him to fall twelve feet. According to one po...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, East Kahiltna Peak Attempt

East Kahiltna Peak Attempt. On May 2, Jamie Kanzler, J.P. Gambetese and I began skiing up the east fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to the southeast face of East Kahiltna Peak (13,440 feet). What caught our eye was an S-shaped couloir toward the west ...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers climbing courses continue to be most popular with 265 basic students and 63 intermediates registered in 1967. In addition to a full schedule of viewfinder, snowshoe, and ski touring climbs, there were 99 basic an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, First Ascent of Bhagirathi IV, V, and P 18,500

First Ascent of Bhagirathi IV, V, and P 18,500. The members of our team were Ganga Singh Negi, Minoo I. Mehta, Kripal Singh Negi, Padam Dutt Nautiyal (the last two high-altitude porters) and I as leader. We set up Base Camp at Nandanban (14,500 fe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Meru North, East Face, New Routes

Meru North, East Face, New Routes. Three Slovene climbers, Franc Knez, Andreja Hrastnik and her brother Martin, started up the east face of Meru North (6460 meters, 21,162 feet) on August 25. After the second bivouac on the rock wall, they deviate...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section

A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. In 1982 this smallest section of the Club was undoubtedly the most active in proportion to its size. Section-sponsored outings were held in the Potomac Gorge and at Seneca Rocks, West Virginia. Members also climbed in t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Madagascar, The Sea Cliffs, New Sport Routes

The Sea Cliffs, new sport routes. Michel Piola and Benoit Robert returned to the North Coast for a couple of weeks during June and July to create 66 new pitches on Madagascar’s northern limestone in the vicinity of Diego Suarez. These new sport cl...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Cascade Section

A.A.C., Cascade Section. Section membership in the States stands at about 160, while another 15 live nearby across the Canadian border. Section meetings, all held at the Mountaineers’ club house, included lectures by Jim Janney describing his clim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Makalu Attempt

Makalu Attempt. A French expedition led by Yves Estienne had as members Rémi Roux, Jean-Pierre Viallet, Jean-Pierre Maissent, Jean-Marc Peltier, Jean- Claude Cartier, Christian Legay, Giuseppe Fournier and Jacques Germain. They were stopped by hig...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Iran, Elburz Range

Iran. A group of French and Iranian climbers under the leadership of our member Bernard Pierre explored and climbed in the Elburz range. They made several first ascents, including the relatively easy east ridge of Demavend (18,605 feet), which was...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Huayna Potosí, Mururata Sajama

Huayna Potosí, Mururata, Sajama. In June of 1972 the French guides Anselme Baud, Thierry Cardon and Bruno Richard made three new routes: Huayna Potosí by the southwest face1, 3000 feet of very hard ice; Mururata by the southeast spur, 3000 feet of...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Attempt

Annapurna Attempt. Six Britons, American Richard Nowack and New Zealander Lester Gray, led by Mal Duff, plus two Sherpas, spent three weeks on the north face of Annapurna, making Camps I and II in snow caves and Camp III at 6500 meters at the top ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, USSR, Pik Kommunizma

Pik Kommunizma. Our 11-member team was composed of Scott Fisher, leader, Wes Krause, Stacey Allison, George Schunk, Brad Udall, Steve Manfredo, Mike Carr, Liz Nichol, Maggie Fox, George Kahrl, and me. Leaving Moscow at midnight, we arrived at the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Norway, Lofoten, Austvagoy Island, Vagakallen, Second Ascent of Freya

Austvagoy Island, Vagakallen, second ascent of Freya. Dusan Janak and I arrived on the island of Austvagoy hoping to climb on the big north face of Vagakallen (942m). We were welcomed by six days of perfect weather and made the second ascent of Fr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Nunavut, Menhir, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island

Menhir, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. Though somewhat thwarted by bad weather, we managed to do a new route on Menhir, the prominent triangular peak directly behind the Thor Shelter. On August 10, we climbed a snow gully that leads to th...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Pre-Existing Condition, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Redgarden Wall

FALL ON ROCK, PRE-EXISTING CONDITIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Redgarden WallOn Saturday, September 25 Maria Petzolt (26) dislocated her shoulder unexpectedly while pulling on a hold on the fourth pitch of Ruper (5.8), a 6-pitch route o...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Mt. Ralston

California, Mt. Ralston—On January 1, 1955, Allen Steck (28), Richard Houston, William Dunmire, and Kenneth D. Adam set out for a ski ascent of Mt. Ralston from Echo Lake, above Tahoe. Plans to attempt Pyramid Peak were cancelled because of a rece...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Traverse of the Lisburne Peninsula

Traverse of the Lisburne Peninsula. In June, 1995, the traverse of the Lisburne Peninsula was accomplished across the spine of the western Brooks Range descending the Ipewik River to Point Hope. This is the westernmost reach of the American Arctic...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Southwestern Colorado Climbing Notes - 1933, Sneffels Section

Sneffels SectionBlaine Peak (12,800 ± ft.) was ascended by the east face. This easy climb was made by T. M. Griffiths, L. V Giesecke, B. M. Souder and the writer.Aiguille Number One (12,900 ± ft.) was first ascended by T. M. Griffiths, L. V. Giese...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt, Schell Route

Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt, Schell Route. A team of three New Zealanders, an Australian and four Britons was led by New Zealander Guy Halliburton. They were unsuccessful because of excessive powder snow. On May 15, they established Base Camp...