Warrior I, North Face, Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range. Jeff Lowe and I made the first ascent on July 25 and 26. The route begins in the center of the north face and goes directly up into the huge dihedral just to the right of the crest. We...
FALL ON ROCK-NO BELAY, LACK OF COMMUNICATIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Back of the LakeOn June 17, two experienced sport climbers were climbing a 25-meter, 5.11a route called Mardi Gras. G.H. (36) had just finished the route on a top rope, and ...
Peaks in Upper Tos Glacier Region, Kulu. Rowland Perriment, Bernie Jones, Dave Waddington, Pete Sinclair, Jim Byrne, Charlie Self and I visited the upper Tos Glacier region in May and June, 1976. We were accompanied by one local, Rigzing Ladakhi. ...
Mururata and Other Peaks. A truck from La Paz took me to Mina San Francisco at 4300 meters. From this mine I hiked up valley to place a camp south of the west glacier of Mururata (5775 meters, 18,947 feet). On June 4 I reached the summit of this p...
Schweizerland, East Greenland. On July 6 we six members of the Swiss and German Greenland Expedition reached our Base Camp on Tasissarsik Fjord. Our objectives were unclimbed peaks in so-called Schweizerland near Angmagssalik. We carried our gear ...
Kilimanjaro, Western Breach. On September 16, Harold Knutson and I ascended and descended this route next to the Arrow Glacier. Beginning at the rarely used 12,500-foot roadhead on the Shira Plateau (only four parties signed in at the national par...
Monkeyfinger Wall and the Leaning Wall, Zion National Park. Drew Bedford and Pokey Amory made an exemplary one-day ascent of Monkeyfinger Wall, adding a one-pitch variation and freeing the entire route at 5.11 + . This is Zion’s longest and most s...
FALLING ROCKWyoming, TetonsOn July 17, 1981, Randy and Duane Taylor (24) were climbing the North Ridge of the Grand Teton. D. Taylor stopped on a ledge on the Grandstand about 200 feet above the Teton Glacier while R. Taylor scrambled on above. Ab...
VARIOUS LEADER FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT (4), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (2), OLD WEBBING BROKE WHEN WEIGHTED (1)New York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksThere were 17 climbing incidents reported from the Preserve this year. Fourteen happened t...
Latok II, West Face and Northwest Ridge, Ascents, and Other Activity. A mostly German expedition of Alex and Thomas Huber, Toni Gutsch, Franz Fendt, and Christian Schlesener, plus American Conrad Anker, succeeded in making the second and third asc...
Wallace Peak, Vowell Group, South Ridge. From a camp on the east side of the Vowell group, Jim Alt, Volker Vogt and I walked to the small col below the south ridge. From there the initial pitches consisted of moderate fifth-class climbing with som...
Mount Logan, First Winter Ascent. On March 16, six Alaskans, Todd Frankiewicz, Willy Hersman, Steve Koslow, George Rooney, Vernon Tejas and I, reached the summit of Mount Logan via the King Trench to become the first climbers successfully to climb...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. The section held four meetings during the year. Programs included an account of an ascent of Mount Waddington by Neal Jacques, and on another occasion pictures of the first ascent of the north face of Mount Baring in the C...
Gasherbrum II. A seven-man-and-a-woman Japanese expedition led by Hideo Sato climbed Gasherbrum II (8035 meters, 26,360 feet). They established Base Camp at 16,650 feet on June 17 and Camp I at 17,900 feet on the 21st. R. Watanabe fell ill with pu...
Huandoy Group, Huandoy Este, Attempt on East Face of Huandoy Norte. In early August John Hudson and I, carrying three days of food, climbed 3000 feet up the glacier and then up the couloir between Huandoy Norte and Este to bivouac in the col. Heav...
Ski and Paraglider Descents. Twenty-four Slovene climbers, extreme skiers and paragliders visited the Cordillera Blanca in May and June. The outstanding ski descents follow: Palcaraju Sur via the south face (normal route) to the Cojup valley from ...
Peaks East of Tirich Mir, 1978. My wife and I, the only ones finally to make the trip, were beset with many problems while driving toward the Hindu Kush and had to alter our plans. Lacking a firm attachment to the cliffs, the shelf-road between Ch...
Distaghil Sar, Second Ascent. After arriving on June 23 at Nagar, we spent two days haggling with the porter chiefs. We finally contracted for 37 porters and a sirdar. We ascended the Hispar valley and glacier and on July 1 got to Bularung on the ...
Peaks 10,800 and 10,600, Farnham Group, Purcells. A reconnaissance I made in 1970 of the two high peaks northwest of the Farnham Tower revealed that climbing them from the east would be exceedingly difficult and especially dangerous. So this past ...
British Columbia, Northern Selkirks. On 16 July Sargent Janes (41) Reed Markley, Penny Ohler and Bill Pratt, members of the 1968 AMC Selkirk Expedition, were returning to Fairy Meadow cabin via Friendship Pass after climbing Pioneer 10,660 feet by...