Langar and P 5877. Two expeditions to Pakistan were successful, but we have not received details. An Italian expedition led by Sergio De Infanti made the first ascent of Langar (23,019 feet). A French expedition led by Walter Michel made the first...
Manaslu Ascents, Tragedy and Attempts. An expedition of 11 Italians led by Paolo Paglino managed to put Silvio Modinelli on the summit via the south face on October 13. Austrian Josef Inhöger, leader of eight Austrians and two Germans, succeeded i...
Our expedition, consisting of Andreas Brun, Adrian Bühler, Heidi Lüdi and me as leader, was in the eastern St. Elias Mountains from May 12 to June 15. We were flown in from Haines Junction by helicopter. We had hoped to be flown to the Alverston...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, OVERCONFIDENTWashington, Peshastin Pinnacles, Orchard RockOn May 15, 1992, I was teaching an inexperienced climber the proper use of protection. I was on sandstone with few places for placing protection. I had ...
Tobsar (6,065m), attempt. In September, Katsuhito Fujikawa and partner made the first known attempt on Tobsar, east-northeast of Chamar (7,161m), which was added to the permitted list in 2002. The two approached via the Shar Khola and the track to...
Mount Rainier, Willis Wall, Thermogenesis. On the last day of winter March 20, Jerome Eberharter, Jon Olson and I ascended the seldom climbed Willis Wall on Rainier. Jerome christened the new route “Thermogenesis.” It followed the 55° couloir to t...
Steeple Peak, North Ridge and Upper West Face: On September 10 Gerry Holdsworth and I got underway from Clear Lake at six a.m., headed for Deep Lake at the base of Steeple and scrambled up easy slabs to the base of the north ridge. The ridge is br...
FALLING ROCKMissouri, Lake of the Ozarks, Truman ReservoirOn October 6, 1994, Phil Rotterman, Cary Winchester and I arrived at the bluffs that abut the Truman Reservoir. We planned to do some sport climbing on some 80 foot high limestone routes.Af...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. The club conducted two basic schools for beginning rock climbers and a lead school for advanced climbers. There were also courses on anchors and advanced ropework as well as orienteering and a seminar in Flagstaff on w...
Mt. Quadra. The N. (lowest) peak of Mt. Quadra, omitted in the ascent of 1910, was first ascended in 1913 by a party of the A. C. C. from the Vermilion Pass camp, the route not being given (C.A.J. v, 136).
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.orgHelicopter usage. A helicopter whirling overhead on a flight to an expedition’s base camp area is no ...
Mount Sanford, Southwest Rib. Jeff Woods and Wes Krause made the first ascent of the southwest rib of Mount Sanford (4949 meters, 16,237 feet), as reported in Climbing of January-February, 1981. Twenty- two miles from the nearest airstrip on the S...
FALLING WHILE DESCENDING, UNROPED—Washington, The Tooth. David Putnam (19) fell while descending “The Tooth.” He was with Steven White (19) and Gary High (18) when he fell 100 feet down a steep snow and rock slope, coming to rest against a tree. H...
• Alaska: A Climbing Guide (Mountaineers $24.95) by Mike Wood and Colby Coombs is a noteworthy guidebook simply because it’s the first comprehensive guide to 80 routes in eight great ranges in Alaska. As Brian Okonek notes in his foreword, this bo...
Poliak Spire, Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. Chaiki Hara, Hatuyo Kotaki and I were on the Tatina Glacier from July 20 to August 3. Bad weather drove us off the west face of P 7270 on July 27 and off the south rib of P 7133 on July 30, but H...
Mount Emmerich. On July 29 and 30, with two companions I climbed Mount Emmerich (6405 feet), which is just northwest of Haines. We completed the ascent of the northeast ridge, which had been unsuccessfully attempted by Fred Beckey and party in 197...
FALL ON ROCK UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. AssiniboineGreg Ehren (25) and two companions were climbing the north face of Mt. Assiniboine unroped and were near the summit about 0900 hours on 30 August 1979. Near the top, his compani...
Makalu, Southeast Face. In October, Dan Mazur, Jonathon Pratt, Alex Nikifarov and Andy Collins completed the first alpine-style ascent of the southeast ridge of Makalu (8481 meters). An account of their ascent appears earlier in this journal.
British Expedition. Bill Goodfellow, Peter Pollard, David Winstanley and I climbed in Ecuador from January 3 to February 12. Still unacclimatized, we floundered in soft snow which threatened to avalanche on the steep north face of Illiniza Sur unt...
Mount Rainier, Sunset Amphitheatre Headwall. This highly impressive headwall of Rainier’s Sunset Amphitheatre on the mountain’s west side offers a fairly direct route to Liberty Cap. The route we chose begins near the prominent ice cliff, continue...