Die Weisse Spinne—Die Geschichte der Eiger Nordwand by Henrich Harrer. West Berlin: Ullstein A.G., 1958, many illustrations, some colored.Heinrich Harrer, a member of the first rope to climb the Northface of the Eiger, is well qualified to write t...
In late July, Jim Beyer and I made the likely first ascent of Peak 10,510', across the glacier northwest of Mt. Hobbs. We landed on an unnamed glacier on the south side of the range, a mile (at most) from the peak, then scrambled up a scree gully ...
Kusutn Kanguru, North Face Solo. Japanese Hiroshi Aota and Takao Kurosawa placed Advance Base below the north ridge of Kusum Kanguru on April 5 and started up the north ridge, bivouacking on April 6 and 7 at 5300 and 5600 meters, but Kurosawa foun...
Mt. Slaughter, First Ascent. It was reported that Guy Cotter and Terry Gardiner made the first ascent of Mt. Slaughter (ca. 3600m) south of the Vinson Massif. The two sled-hauled for a day, then spent another day reaching the base of Mt. Slaughter...
Tacusiri, Ausangate and Other Peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota. Because of terrorism in the Cordillera Huayhuash, we changed our objective to the Vilcanota. On June 13, Bruce Jardine, Andy Bunnage, John Lyall and I established Base Camp on the banks of...
Moose’s Tooth, East Face Attempt. In early June Lou Dawson, Tom Merrill, Bob Sullivan and I made an attempt on the east face of the Moose’s Tooth. Cliff Hudson flew us to the Buckskin Glacier a half-mile from the base of the climb. Sullivan and I ...
Mount Robie. One and one-half miles north of Ranger Peak is a flat topped summit (10,850 feet), the east ridge of which was climbed from Jackson Lake June 23, 1957 by Leigh and Irene Ortenburger. A cairn but no record was found. A difficult unexpe...
Koz Sar or P 6885 Attempt. A 15-man Japanese expedition led by Keiichi Tsukamoto was given permission to climb Koz Sar (6677 meters, 21,906 feet). The peak which they say they attempted was P 6885 (22,490 feet) on the ridge line between Batura and...
Kärnten, by Gabriel Rossmanith. 24 pages of trilingual text and 167 full-page photographic illustrations. Klagenfurt: Verlag Carinthia, 1951. Price, $2.50.Here is the most satisfying book on the Austrian province of Carinthia that we have seen, an...
In a 36-hour roundtrip push from base camp on February 19–20, 2011, Sean Villanueva and I made an onsight free ascent of the east face of Fitz Roy. We mostly followed El Corazon, but to avoid some wet rock we started with the closest good-lookin...
Nanga Parbat. Twelve parties, including four from Japan, were given permission for Nanga Parbat in 1985. Fourteen of our expedition set up Base Camp at 4100 meters on May 21, hoping to climb the 1962 German route on the Diamir Face. We established...
Cordillére Blanche, by Georges Kogan and Nicole Leininger. Preface by Maurice Herzog. 160 pages, with 34 illustrations, 5 maps, and frontispiece in color. Paris and Grenoble: B. Arthaud, 1952. Price, 690 Fr. francs.Peru’s enchanting and spectacula...
El Gran Trono Blanco. Paul Piana has written a full article on the first free ascent of the Pan American Route on the Gran Trono Blanco which he made with his wife. This appears earlier in this Journal.El Gran Trono Blanco. This winter, Jeff Holle...
Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. During the month of July Dr. Philip Gribbon and I conducted 'a rather unusual two-man expedition to the Canadian Arctic. We were flown to Cape Dyer, a DEW-line base on the Cumberland Peninsula of eastern Baffin...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn July 10, while free soloing Comfortably Numb, a 5.10 climb on Cottage Dome, Susan Green (21) fell about 15-24 meters, landing upright on both feet. He then slid an a...
Laylak and Karavshin Regions, Clarification. Vladimir Kopylov, co-author with Paola Sicouri of Forbidden Mountains, notes that C.I.S. climbers refer to the two famous climbing areas of the Pamir-Alai as the Laylak (or Laylak Ak-Su) Region, home to...
Everest Attempt. In September, the Iranian, Mischa Saleki, who lives in Germany, reached the North Col of Everest from the East Rongbuk Glacier with two Sherpas but did not go higher.
SLIP ON SNOW, UNROPED, HASTE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Three Sisters, Big SisterAbout 1315 on September 30, 1992, Richard O. and Jim B. were hurrying upward in strong winds on the southwest slopes of the third Sister (2937 meters) when Richard sli...
Gurja Himal Attempt. On October 7, my wife Danielle Fioggiaroli-Gendey, Dr. Dominique Oilier, Jacques Henry, Patrick Huard, Jean-Luc Le Floch and I left Pokhara with 60 porters, hoping to climb the 1969 Japanese route on Gurja Himal (7193 meters, ...
Mulkila IV. A five-member Japanese team was led by Yoshio Kondo. Masahiro Miyamoto and Indian Laxman Singh Rama reached the summit (6517 meters, 21,381 feet) on September 11.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club