Baltoro, by Prof. Dr. Gunter O. Dyhrenfurth and others (Hettie Dyhrenfurth, Hans Ertl, André Roch). 194 pages, 202 photographs ; 3 drawings: accompanying folder containing 4 panoramas, 50 sketches, 4 maps. Basel: Bruno Schwabe & Co., 1939.For ...
Tirich Mir East, East Ridge. The Polish-Yugoslavian expedition to Tirich Mir East was organized by the Klub Wysokogórski in Katowice and the Planinsko Društvo in Domižale, Yugoslavia. The leader was Stanislaw Rudzinski. Of the 60 volunteers, the...
The Ascent of OrizabaRollin T. ChamberlinON the brow of the Mexican Plateau, overlooking Vera Cruz and the Gulf from a distance of three score miles and ten, stands the isolated volcanic cone, Orizaba, the loftiest peak in North America, outside t...
Wyoming Rockies Teton RangeWith each season the Teton Range of Wyoming becomes more firmly established as a climbing center. In 1934 there were accomplished in these mountains 103 ascents as against the previous maximum of 73 (for 1933). As usual ...
Adam’s Rib. Early in 1971 Doug Robinson and I climbed a 1000-foot tower on Wheeler Crest named “The Smokestack.” It proved to be the most continuously difficult free climb of its length that either of us has encountered. Adam’s Rib is an equal-siz...
Mt. Marcus Baker, Sanctuary Ridge. After abandoning our original objective, the northwest ridge of Mt. Marcus Baker (13,176'), because of extremely fractured rock at 8,400', we cast about for an alternative objective. We selected a rib dividing th...
Climbs in the New Zealand AlpsPETER ROBINSONon December 24, 1955, I arrived in New Zealand to take up a Fulbright Scholarship for the study of geology at the University of Otago, Dunedin. In Dunedin I was welcomed by our honorary member, Professor...
FRITZ LIPPMANN 1921-1977Fritz Lippmann died on May 13, 1977, of metastatic cancer, after a long and debilitating illness. His climbing career started in the late 1930’s, and he became identified in 1940 as a member of a California climbing quartet...
Tsaranoro Atsimo, Southeast Spur, Life in a Fairy Tale. In September, Mark Wilford, Silvia and Craig Luebben and non-climbers Lane Ahem and Dhasa Bishop traveled to the Tsaranoro Massif in southern Madagascar. The climbers ascended three classic T...
Appalachian Mountains, Tennessee: Cumberland Plateau Region. On 25 May 1947 an accident occurred to a member of a rock-climbing group from Vanderbilt University. Five of the seven active participants had had previous experience in rock climbing. D...
Alaska, Mt. Hunter. During April of 1966, Dr. J. C. Duenwald was hospitalized for three days with a viral pneumonia after which there was a period of almost a month during which his physical activity was severely limited. Thus he had a great deal ...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTECalifornia, Mount WhitneyIn late July, half way up the East Face of Mt. Whitney, Cecile Wilson (37) fell five meters, shearing off a meter chunk of rock that had been anchoring the rope. She landed hard on a le...
United States: Activities of the ClubsA.A.C., Cascade Section. The Cascade Section of the A.A.C. held its Annual Fall Banquet in Seattle on 29 October 1949. Of the 35 members, scattered widely through Oregon and Washington, 18 attended. They and t...
El Gigante, La Conjura de los Necios. As we boarded the plane for Mexico at the beginning of November, we had one desire: that this trip would not turn into another epic. The goal was El Gigante. It was late at night when our seven-man team reache...
El Gigante, Man On Fire. This 21-pitch route (5.10d/A0 or 5.12a) was established by Alex and Nathalie Catlin, Cindy Tolle, and Bobby Longoria, Katie Bluementhal, and Tony Scott, in September 2003 (FFA later in September, by Alex and Nathalie Catli...
[Editor's Note and Correction: The Lopez-Pfaff Direct route described below is in fact not on Ritacuba Blanco proper; rather, it climbs a sub-peak (approximately 5,000m) located to the south of Ritacuba and known as "Cerro Muela."]On February 21, ...
Climbs and Ski Runs. By F. S. Smythe, with a foreword by G. Winthrop Young. Pp. xx+07. Illustrated. Blackwood & Sons, Edinburgh. 1929. Price 21s.Mr. Smythe is well known to mountaineers from his two great climbs on the Brenva face of Mont Blan...
Painted Wall, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, 1988. In the fall of 1988, I soloed a new route on the right of the Painted Wall without fixed rope or bolts. I followed the first pitch of the Dragon Route to the screefield. My route started at the top...
The Measure of a Mountain: Beauty and Terror on Mount Rainier. Bruce Barcott. Sasquatch Books: Seattle, 1997. 278 pages. $23.95.During the past decade, I have read and reviewed many inferior books about mountaineering. I have been bored with 8000-...
Bolivia, various ascents. Although more may come to light, Bolivian contacts and regular visitors know of little pioneering activity in 2005. However, they do report that the mountains are in bad shape, crumbling and with marked glacial retreat. T...