Shoshone Spire, Bitterroot Range. About three miles up Blodgett Canyon is this triangular rock of solid granite. The upper face is reached by climbing three pitches to the large ledge system at the base of the face. The following two routes, done ...

FALL ON SNOW, FALL INTO MOAT WHILE GLISSADING Wyoming, TetonsOn June 21,1986, Fredrick Sigekrans (22) and Jeffrey Balin (21) were descending from the saddle between Middle and South Tetons by glissading. They reached a point ahundred vertical mete...

Lhotse Attempt. American Peter Athans and a companion reached 7600 meters on the west face of Lhotse on October 11 but could not continue higher.Elizabeth Hawley

Peak 12,450 (Throne Peak), The Scimitar. Approaching from the east, Jon Allen and I hiked into the Cathedral Peak area where we were met by James Garrett later that evening. After a morning of wet weather, James headed off and soloed the South Rid...

Bauddha Attempt. A six-man expedition from the Japanese Hirosaki Overseas Climbing Club led by Shozo Kikuchi failed to climb Bauddha (21,890 feet) by its south ridge. They set up Base Camp (15,100 feet), Camp I (17,800 feet) and Camp II (19,400 fe...

Everest Attempt. A Belgian expedition consisted of Alain Hubert, leader, Eugène Berger, Bertrand Borrey, Guido Cadoen, Jacques Collaer, Vincent Dewaele, Jean Philippe Perikel and Pierre Soetè. They had hoped to climb Everest’s northwest face by th...

Chhiv Himal (6,650m), first ascent; Saribung (6,328m), second ascent, new route. Four members of the Japanese Alpine Club, Student Section, made the first ascent of Chhiv Himal (6,650m) on September 18, 2004. On the following day, all five members...

Torre Egger, Southwest Face. Conrad Anker, Steve Gerberding and Jay Smith made the fifth ascent of Torre Egger with their new route Badlands (VI 5.10 A3 WI4), reaching the summit on December 12, 1994. An account of their climb appears earlier in t...

Fearless on Everest: The Quest for Sandy Irvine, (Mountaineers, 2000; $18.95.) tells more about Sandy Irvine than has ever been told before. Written by an admiring relative, Julie Summers (his sister’s granddaughter), it is by no means a disintere...

Peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. Our expedition consisted of Hansjörg Jesacher, Heinrich Renzl, Albrecht Thausing, Franz Gruber, Helmut Hüttinger and me. We traversed the entire Urus ridge and continued on towards Tocllaraju but did not get to the ...

Monda Kangri (6,426m), attempt. Monda Kargri is located at 28.2°N and 90.6°E, 145km south of Lhasa. It is an isolated massif a little to the north of the mighty Ghula (Kula) Kangri, a 7,538m massif soaring to the west of Lake Phulma (Puma Yum Tso)...

Argentine Patagonia, Various Ascents. On December 31, 1997, thanks to a three-day spell of good weather, Spanish climbers Manel de la Matta and Hugo Biarge climbed Cerro Torre via the Maesti route. They started from a snow cave in the glacier at t...

Istor-o-Nal Northeast Attempt. Our six-man Nagoya Keiryo Club Expedition failed to climb Istor-o-Nal Northeast. We established Base Camp on June 18 at 13,950 feet on the South Atrak Glacier. Camps I and II at 15,750 and 17,400 feet were placed on ...

Tseringma Peak, Gaurishankar Group. Our aim was to climb Gaurishankar via a five-kilometer traverse on the southeast ridge, climbing initially a subsidiary peak known locally as Tseringma (6333 meters, 20,778 feet). The team consisted of Paul Rich...

Numbur Attempt. Five Norwegians, led by Arne Naess, attempted to climb Numbur (22,815 feet) by its southwest ridge. The expedition was delayed when Aeroflot took over three weeks to fly their equipment from Oslo to Kathmandu. All members got to 19...

Annapurna III Tragedy. A Japanese expedition of eleven was led by Tsukasa Nakase. They attempted the north face of Annapurna III (7555 meters, 24,787 feet), hoping to repeat the Indian route of 1961. On April 24 Masayoshi Okabe was killed by an av...

Kanjiroba Himal. In the spring of 1969, following the lifting of the ban on climbing in Nepal, the undersigned took a further expedition to explore the northern side of the Kanjiroba Himal, much of which we had mapped on previous expeditions for p...

Lumpy Ridge. Just right of the first pitch of the Route of All Evil on the Pear, on June 21 Robert Anderson and I climbed Sweet Sabina (5.9+) up a clean slab past two bolts before swinging over the middle of the prominent horizontal ceiling above,...

Serrania Avalancha is a huge, east-facing, granite wall situated eight hours, through the Valdivian forest, west of the tiny village of Puerto Cardenas, at the northern end of Lago Yelcho. The approach requires a machete and a crossing of two wild...

Canwell-Gakona Traverse and Climbs, 1993. In April, 1993, Ian McRae and I ascended the Canwell Glacier. We climbed a new direct mixed route on the north face of Institute Peak (8000 feet, 1 mile west of Minya Peak). The protection was always poor ...