Pumori, West Face. The Alpine Club Unpo expedition was made up of Junji Matsuda, Minoru Takagi, Ko Hattori, Yoshinobu Mizuta, Fumiaki Sakoda, Kiyoshi Ikawa, Motoichi Ohgoshi, Keiji Nomura, Nobuyaki Kaneko, Miss Mutsuko Koyama and me as leader. We ...
Baruntse Ascents and Attempts in the Post-Monsoon. An expedition led by Ralf Dujmovits was composed of six Germans, one Swiss and one Czech. On October 15, Germans Dujmovits, Wolfgang Kunzendorf, Frau Helga Kowatsch, Manfred Kowatsch, Swiss Rafael...
STRANDED – LEADING TO EXHAUSTION AND DEHYDRATIONOregon, Smith Rocks, Monkey FaceOn Tuesday, July 14, 2009, Samuel Wilson (18) and his friend (17), both from the state of Washington, called 911 at 6:30 p.m. They had been climbing routes all day at ...
Mount Winchell, Southwest Arête. This beautiful knife-edge is pictured on page five of the Sierra Club book, Gentle Wilderness: The Sierra Nevada. The route is on the first ridge in from the right skyline which joins the north ridge about a hundre...
Everest Attempt. This large expedition was organized by Frenchmen Claude Jaccoux and Michel Vincent. It had two guides, Erik Decamp and Jean Clemenson, and a doctor, Corinne Beauvoir. There were 15 climbers, four of them women, and a film crew of ...
Saltoro Kangri Attempt. The Hokuryo Alpine Club’s expedition was composed of Shuhji Yamamoto, Kazuyu Namikawa and 12 others including two women. They arrived at Base Camp at 14,000 feet on June 3 and attempted the south ridge of Saltoro Kangri (25...
Ama Dablam. Tragedy struck the British party led by J. H. Emlyn Jones just as it seemed as if they would successfully make the first ascent of incredibly difficult Ama Dablam (22,500 feet). The group had climbed the hardest part of the northeast r...
Silverthrone and Mather. On August 11 Vern Tejas, John Dargis, Wally Orr, Terry Pearce, my wife Roni and I climbed Silverthrone by the Washburn route. Beautiful weather and views of Mather convinced us to do Mather as well. While Roni and Pearce, ...
Geographical DistrictsAccidents1947-19551956Atlantic States—North156South 20Central20Colorado 367Utah & New Mexico41Wyoming227Montana & Idaho71Arizona & Nevada50California 3110Oregon 211Washington327Alaska 40Practice Cliffs—all areas10...
The Needles, Warlock Needle, Romantic Warrior. In October John Peca and I spent three days on this magnificent seven-pitch route. The route is located on Warlock’s steep west face, on the southernmost of the three massive summit towers. A scramble...
Pangi Valley, mountaineering history; unclimbed objectives from the Saichu Valley. Early history in the Pangi was made by Japanese Junko Tabei, the first woman to summit Everest, who in 1988 made the first ascent of Shiva by the southwest face fro...
New York, Pocomoonshine Slab—On July 6 Hugh Tanton (26) a member of an experienced party of four British and two Canadian climbers set out to do a difficult climb (Pocomoonshine Slab) just off the highway about 20 miles south of Plattsburg. They d...
FROSTBITE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—Alaska, Brooks Range. During the ski traverse of the Brooks Range by the Antioch College “Challenge/ Discovery” group in the early spring of 1977, four members of the team experienced frostbite and evacuation was ne...
Cajavilca. The Canadians John Ricker, Lisle Irwin and Dr. Karl Tomm were joined in the Quebrada Ulta by Scots David Todd and James Gardner. The latter two unsuccessfully tried a new route, the south ridge of Contra- hierbas. The whole group then a...
Kongur Tagh (7,719m), northeast ridge, new route. Kongur Tagh’s summit is on China territory close to the border of two big mountain systems, the Pamir and Kun Lun. It is supposed to be the highest mountain of Pamir. In spite of its altitude, Kong...
Mount Kimball, Alaska Range. In August a party of ten from the Alaska Alpine Club hiked in sometimes drizzly, usually foggy weather from the terminus of the Can well Glacier at the Richardson Highway, across the upper Gakova Glacier and down an un...
FALLING ROCK, OFF ROUTE, STRANDEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LouisOn July 26, a party of two attempted Greenwood Route (III, 5.7) on the south Face of Mount Louis. They had difficulty following the route and found the climbing much more diffic...
Maiktoli Ascent. Lavraj Sinh led an Indian team from Almora, Kumaon to the summit (6803 meters) on September 21 via the south face. The 12-member team approached the mountain from the Sunderdhunga Valley in the south. They established three camps ...
Arcturus, Northwest Face of Half Dome. Late in the afternoon of July 18, Dick Dorworth and I arrived at the base of the northwest face of Half Dome. It was like a furnace there. The spring, as we had feared, was dry, but luckily we discovered a tr...
Huascarán, Northeast Ridge. Our expedition of 18 climbers was in the region in August, mostly in the Quebrada Llanganuco. On August 13 Montserrat Jou, Ricard Cots, Joseph Salvans and Xavier Sola climbed the normal route on Chopicalqui. Pisco Oeste...